M130 timing chain guide replacement

[LJJ]

A quick question on the best way to remove the bolt / pins that locate the timing chain guides in a M130? I note they have a threaded insert, are they simply an interference fit that need to be pulled out?

Thanks

[Bartman4800]

Yes, there is M6 thread internally.

You can make a home made puller with some washers and tube to use the bolt to pull out the pins.
You can also use a impact puller, but you need to remove the radiator for more access.


Bart

[LJJ]

Yes, there is M6 thread internally.

You can make a home made puller with some washers and tube to use the bolt to pull out the pins.
You can also use a impact puller, but you need to remove the radiator for more access.


Bart

Thats what I was thinking, thanks for the confirmation.

[LJJ]

I also assume that there are no internal circlips? Additionally it appears the lower guides are basically a full engine tear down to replace?

[Bartman4800]

There are 2 guides, and both are replaceable by pulling the pins out of the front

Have a lookey here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vin ... -hunt.html

[CraigB]

Pins can be crazy tight - one of MB's more stupid designs - what would be wrong with something like a shoulder bolt? But definitely interference fit and no other tricks. Factory manual I think shows a slide hammer but since then there is a mercedes part number puller. I can't remember how much, 50? 100? Giles on here bought one - if you search his posts it might have the details - or it was on facebook maybe. I have made up pullers but that M6 thread is a worry and if it breaks, what do you do then. I have been tempted to order one of the mercedes ones when i try the next one - how much is your time worth to make something - risk of breakage etc - that was my thinking.

[Bartman4800]

You mean these? :)
https://www.google.com/search?q=pin+pul ... PTz_KQBKHM

I would not worry about the M6 breaking, providing you use a fastener of 10.9 or 12.9 grade. No Chinese 4.6 crap from Boonings please...

[CraigB]

That link looks like (from memory) what Giles had in a bag with a Mercedes part number on it. At $42 US, plus postage, I don't reckon Giles paid much more than that from the dealer.... best way to get Giles is via facebook these days - I will see if i can find it later (when the lovely sun is not shining outside!)

What happened to me is that I tried to use a bit of tube and stud and nut as a puller and the metal it sat on not perfectly flat and it started to pull on a bit of an angle and then bent the thread, didn't break, but couldn't help think of the predicament if it did. It was so tight I ended up pulling radiator and getting my big slide hammer on it (with inox, freeze release etc soaking for days) - still didn't budge it, but eventually from a combination of hitting it back in with a drift and slide hammer out, back and forth.... got there eventually.

So not disagreeing with what you say Bart, but how my head works these days, to be sure i had a 10.9 to 12.9 fastener, that would require a trip to the bolt place, plus messing about making puller bits.... quickly a quality tool that I can put on the shelf and use half a dozen times over the next few years, lend to mates without worrying what i have produced is good enough for them .. etc..... and putting a bit of value on my time... and then a $100 tool starts to look like good value. If you have the bits, few minutes to spare say at work for a 'foreigney', instead of talking about what happened in the footy on the weekend, then the $100 tool makes no sense. But another example and LJJ can choose what's best for him.

[tsharkey]

... or "that Tool" you can lend to the head reconditioning place - which is what I have done for a regrind / deck plane on an SLS head being upgraded to larger Sodium Filled OM617A valves - He needed to pull the prechambers and would have charged me to loan the tool from the professionals - I supplied mine instead.

[LJJ]

Can anyone advise on the best way to access the two lower guides with engine in car (if possible), is their enough access with the sump off? Or does the lower cradle need to come off as well?