Coupe to road

[mathuisella]

More pictures of various pictures at various stages :)

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the water that the wet vac is pulling out of the carpets, they look clean to the eye, but all this dirt is deep into the carpet and if you don't get it out, you'll g et the carpets dirty quicker and the carpets don't feel as good to the touch even though they look clean.

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and what they are like now

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[Nabstud]

It's amazing what a bit of elbow grease does to the carpets, they look 10 times better!

[John Green]

Having trouble getting it out as it looks like i have to move the discs apart so i can get the axles out to let the diff come down.

No need for this. Drop the diff off the subframe with the axles still attached, move it to the left to disengage the r/h shaft from the hub and then move to the right. Before you do this tap the shafts in the hubs to make sure they are loose. When you reinstall them be kind to whoever will be doing this job next and put a little bit of copper grease on the spline.

[mathuisella]

Having trouble getting it out as it looks like i have to move the discs apart so i can get the axles out to let the diff come down.

No need for this. Drop the diff off the subframe with the axles still attached, move it to the left to disengage the r/h shaft from the hub and then move to the right. Before you do this tap the shafts in the hubs to make sure they are loose. When you reinstall them be kind to whoever will be doing this job next and put a little bit of copper grease on the spline.

Cheers :)


I managed to get it all disassembled by just lifting the brake caliper out of the way, tying it off so it's not hanging by the fluid line :)

doing this gave me the chance to look at the brakes a bit more thoroughly and i fixed my squeak :) Bonus :P

[tsharkey]

For the rear windows, the early coupes didn't have a re-enforcement on the bracket and they would bend and bind the regulator. Late ones did. I had a left hand late one I got from the US a long time ago and modified a RH one to suit. I also removed the channel the windows bush runs up and down in (the one that has the kink in it to move it forward) and cleaned all the gunky grease in it. Both sides now run smoothly up and down all the way.

[tsharkey]

The channel the RH rear window sat in was also rusted beyond redemption, so I made one out of a rear W116 window (sorry W116 owners) channel the local pick a part had.

W123 RH Coupe Window Rear Holder.JPG

Drilled off the tabs and made the cut out.

W123 Coupe RH Rear Remade.JPG

Welded tabs into position - Window fixed

(As compensation to the W116 world, Craig can have the W116 glass when he picks up his 126 coupe rear screen that has lived through the Mel lockdown)

[mathuisella]

For the rear windows, the early coupes didn't have a re-enforcement on the bracket and they would bend and bind the regulator. Late ones did. I had a left hand late one I got from the US a long time ago and modified a RH one to suit. I also removed the channel the windows bush runs up and down in (the one that has the kink in it to move it forward) and cleaned all the gunky grease in it. Both sides now run smoothly up and down all the way.

That's great :) Mine has the recenforcement. but it bends at the tab itself over time :/ and the arm that connects to the tab slips and instead of pushing the window down and pulling up, it goes to the other side and pulls down and pushes up or vice versa can't remember now haha.

I made a video on it a while back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2WmY5e ... qwertyui90

[mathuisella]

The channel the RH rear window sat in was also rusted beyond redemption, so I made one out of a rear W116 window (sorry W116 owners) channel the local pick a part had.
W123 RH Coupe Window Rear Holder.JPG

Drilled off the tabs and made the cut out.
W123 Coupe RH Rear Remade.JPG

Welded tabs into position - Window fixed

(As compensation to the W116 world, Craig can have the W116 glass when he picks up his 126 coupe rear screen that has lived through the Mel lockdown)

That's really good :D

i assume mig weld ? or is it better to tig it as the metal is really thin on the U channel window stuff :/

I have a mig with gasless wire in it at the moment. a 300Amp industrial welder.

[mathuisella]

today's update.


I put that aircraft sealant on a brand new cut out paper gasket ( stuff that wasn't thin, rather a bit on the thicker side )

waiting 24 hours for it to fully cure.

i reset the arm on the tab for the rear left window and now the window goes up and down nicely :) It was lubricated last in late 2019, so it's still good in there :)

[mathuisella]

rear left window has done that thing again where it slips and then won't go down all the way, only half way :/ right side is perfect though :/

unsure why it keeps doing it.

[tsharkey]

Do you have the small arm facing downwards when it is fully up - when I first put in the LH side, it was facing upwards so it would only go halfway down .... will take a picture tonight if unclear.

[mathuisella]

Do you have the small arm facing downwards when it is fully up - when I first put in the LH side, it was facing upwards so it would only go halfway down .... will take a picture tonight if unclear.

I set it right, so the window goes all the way down, but after about 10 cycles of up and down the arm slips into the incorrect position and only goes down half way from then on out :'(

[tsharkey]

Have you pulled out the channel nearest the door (the one with the dog leg that pulls the window forward) and removed all the greasy gunk that accumulates in it ? Then regreased with silicone grease for the new window ?

[mathuisella]

Here we go :)

everything is in the video :D

Lubricated things well, after cleaning and reassembling.

1st part of my video is from an earlier video, but included it with the new one as i forgot about recording the beginning of the process, woops, but it's set up like a guide for others to follow in years to come when they have the same issue with their windows :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkQnqI80kPo

[mathuisella]

Christmas morning, went for a drive :D

she got a wash the day before, look at that soapy booty...

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She seems to have a squeak, wondering if a brake caliper is dragging or something, seems to be coming from the left side ?

[Pete49]

let it snow, let it snow etc.

[mathuisella]

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Anyone know how i could get rid of the darkish area around the split > ?

i suspect it's glue from year ago when a leather patch or something was stuck over the top ?

[mathuisella]

Obligatory picture, taken last night as a mates place as i parked up for a moment and then we were off :)

She's been cleaned and waxed, the windscreen came out great :)

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[W123 300D]

timeless classic in white, very nice!

[mathuisella]

So, wondering, what coolant should i be using ?

about to do a flush/clean and refill. after sorting out the temp.

My issue is that the temp gauge seems to never go past 65 degrees. So, not sure if it's the thermostat or the gauge.

This is the job for next week :)


I saw this and thought it may do the trick :)

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Also, i got the best parking spot today, nobody could park next to me :P

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[CraigB]

I think the main issue for us is corrosion and compatibility of coolant to our metals. That's why I always say use a coolant that a big company has recommended and in writing - eg. penrite website etc. You can ring nulon techs too if they are back, but I can't see why a diesel coolant should be different and I think that might be a bit of marketing - eg. that's the only coolant with diesel written on it so better grab that one, when none of the other bottles have got the words diesel on them. But its all chemistry and beware of marketing! Also if the bottle has the MB spec written on it - whatever it is for your car - then should be good. There was a time when i thought 'does it really matter as long as not water' and then i saw this one head with serious corrosion after only a year of the wrong coolant on a cleaned and recon head.

[John Green]

So, wondering, what coolant should i be using ?

Brand is not so important, what is important is that it meets Mercedes-Benz spec 325.0. Ideally it should be a greeny blue colour as this is what the genuine stuff is. MB specked it to this colour so you could look in the radiator or header tank and check if it has the right stuff in it.

Here is an example: https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooli ... oncentrate

[mathuisella]

So, wondering, what coolant should i be using ?

Brand is not so important, what is important is that it meets Mercedes-Benz spec 325.0. Ideally it should be a greeny blue colour as this is what the genuine stuff is. MB specked it to this colour so you could look in the radiator or header tank and check if it has the right stuff in it.

Here is an example: https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooli ... oncentrate

I will look for the one in the picture :) type A blue nulon and i'll bring the picture :P

[mathuisella]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wK39lcdN3As


replaced the number plate globes. Also changed the boot and interior lights with the correct wattage :) don't mind me in the video had a not so great day.

[Chai]

I replaced all of the festoon globes in my car with warm white LEDs. The only difference with the new LED globes is that they are brighter than the old incandescent globes.
Recall I added a small piece of sponge behind some of the lights to stop the festoon rotating in its mount. This is to ensure the LEDs always face outwards.

Festoon globe versus LED.png

I installed the parking light facing the reflector.

Festoon globe for parking light.png

[mathuisella]

I replaced all of the festoon globes in my car with warm white LEDs. The only difference with the new LED globes is that they are brighter than the old incandescent globes.
Recall I added a small piece of sponge behind some of the lights to stop the festoon rotating in its mount. This is to ensure the LEDs always face outwards.
Festoon globe versus LED.png

I installed the parking light facing the reflector.
Festoon globe for parking light.png

the back of the led's you've got there, the little heatsink gets really hot ? wouldn't that kinda be dangerous with the foam/sponge right there ? melting and potentially starting a fire ?

I don't like the led's near the numberplate, why make it brighter :P takes away from the nice subtle look of the rear of the car at night when looking from the rear.

The flickering also, did you have this problem ?> i had led's for brakes/reverse lights and well, they were crap, always flickering, install old school incandescent bulbs and no more flickering and a nice warm subtle glow comes back :D

[tsharkey]

I fitted a W202 3rd rear break light to the coupe (came in the same interior colour) - Series I W202 are incandescent bulbs, Series II are LED. At home the whole house is LED but in the car, I went for the Series I incandescent lamps as energy efficiency is not really an issue and the subtle slow on / off is period correct.

[mathuisella]

I fitted a W202 3rd rear break light to the coupe (came in the same interior colour) - Series I W202 are incandescent bulbs, Series II are LED. At home the whole house is LED but in the car, I went for the Series I incandescent lamps as energy efficiency is not really an issue and the subtle slow on / off is period correct.

Really ? surprised. I won't fit a 3rd brake light to mine, just doesn't seem right to me, didn't come with one and i like the clean look without it :)

with the bulbs, surprised that your house is fitted with them, but i guess these days it's harder to find an incandescent.

[Chai]

The LEDs in my car do not flicker.
I know that LEDs have a fast on-off-on but this high speed flashing is only visible when you film the lamp and even then, it depends on the shutter speed. It's usually not visible to the naked eye.

The el-cheapo LEDs I bought does not have a heat sink behind it - just the plastic circuit board on the other side of the LEDs.
Will do a temperature test on an operating globe to check how hot the back feels after a few minutes.

[math]

Hey everyone, time for an update.

sort of.


The engine broke crankshaft :'( sad times.

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So, the engine now lives with John Green, one of the few guys i know that has the space, tools and expertise to get it going again, unfortunately i do not :'( as sadly had to let the engine go as much as i miss it already.

I bought back my original W123 and used the diesel engine out of it ( naturally aspirated om617 ) and coupled it to the 4 speed manual transmission that was already in the car to it.

On a positive note. I now have a working Tachometer, i will update with pictures and information on that probably tomorrow, or over the weekend when i get a bit of time to go over it and take pictures of how it was done.


I got a diesel tachometer from Ebay, from the USA, shipped it over.

I also got in touch with someone else from a USA forum who had 3 Tach amplifiers, but were non working ( untested and assumed non working )

I wired it all up, yep not working...

sent what i had to Tim in Melbourne who was kind enough to put the pieces in his w123 as he has a tach as well. to narrow down the problems.

Turns out, my amp was dead, as i expected, the clock was dead ( i can fix that ) tach was dead (damn it, but my own fault as i tried to replace capacitors and probably got the wrong ones, or screwed something up )


So.

After i got the pieces back, i got myself another tachometer from the USA, and used one of the 3 tach amps, pulled it apart and redone every solder joint in it, as in, i didn't just add a touch of solder or reflow them. I sucked the solder off of every joint, and then used leaded solder of 63/37 on every single join. Followed by putting a coat of solder along every trace/line of the pcb. so no hairline cracks in the trace can mess things up.

After that, i replaced the clock's capacitors. ( the tachometer has a small clock under the tach rpm's )

then put it all together and she works :)

I did not have to calibrate it, as starting the car had it idling at about 450rpm, which is normal for a cold start, then you use the idle adjust to bring it to 600-650 or so. Once warmed up she idles perfectly at 600-650 rpm.

[math]

So, this is an MS paint schematic on how to wire up a tachometer in our cars.

now, there are 3 different tachs.

1st there is the petrol tach, which is no good for us with diesels. and Those petrol ones probably wire up differently anyways.

2nd there is 2 different diesel tach, the older one ( which is the one i used and the one we want ) in the picture, on the back only has 2 pins on the back for the 'plug' that would normally go in that spot.

3rd is also a diesel tach, but it has an extra pin and needs a computer to go with it in some of the later 84/85 kind of ones.

wiring up w123 tachometer.png

[math]

Today I cleaned out the fiel tank's float/signal sender :)

( insert youtube video here of the process )


The next thing is dash lights.


Now, i have all the lights working on the dash except for the ones that light up the dash of a night time when i turn the headlights on.


I checked the globes they are good.

I bypassed the rheostat by soldering a thick copper wire across the terminals ( so no fiddly/dodgy connection issues ) I get a perfect connection there now.

I checked all the fuses and they are good.


I had a read of a thread here where the guy had the same issue.


https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/di ... ostat.html

Pin, wire color, Function or Source
1, wht/blu, High Beam indicator bulb, +12V = on
2, grn, from Coolant Temperature Sensor
3, blu/blk, from fuel level sender in tank to gage
4, blu/grn, from low Fuel Warning in tank to bulb, grounded = on
5, blk/blu, +12V supply from fuse #12
6, blu/red, +12V from key switch #15 (run) to charge indicator bulb
7, blu, +out from alternator terminal D+ to charge indicator bulb
8, brn/red, from brake pad warning switches to indicator bulb, grounded = on
9, brn/gry, from warning switches (doors, relay) to buzzer
10, brn/red/wht, from brake fluid low and e-brake switches to indicator bulb, grounded = on
11, gry/grn/vio, +12V from headlamp switch terminal K to dimmer rheostat and to warning buzzer
12, gry/blu, rheostat output to bulbs in console
13, blk/grn, from turn signal term 8 to right turn signal indicator bulb, +12V = on
14, blk/wht, from turn signal term 6 to left turn signal indicator bulb, +12V = on
15, brn, from M1 ground (behind cluster)



I get no voltage on pin 11 anymore. :'( so i need to trace that around, but unsure where it goes, it's in a big sheath and disappeared under the dash.


So now i've got out the workshop manual trying to look through the wiring diagrams. Any tips would be appreciated :)

From what i can see, going from the guide, the rheotstat is where the bulbs get theit power from, so i need to trace back where the rheostat get's it's power.

do

Scan0009.jpg

Scan0007.jpg

Scan0008.jpg

Okay so i highlighted the diagram

dash lights not working highlighted wiringing diagram.jpg

H on the wiring diagram, noting it says pin 11, So it means it would be pin 11 from the plug on the back of the instrument cluster.

Tracing it down, it goes to point K on item number 36 in the wiring diagram, which i believe is the large light switch on the right of the steering wheel on the dash. I need to see if i'm getting 12v from point K on t hat switch.

Be back soon going to check it out.

[John Green]

I have seen a headlamp switch do this where there is no signal to the dash lights

[math]

I have seen a headlamp switch do this where there is no signal to the dash lights

not quite understanding what you mean here.


Are you saying there is no signal to the dash lights and that's why the switch doesn't work ? or the switch doesn't work and that's why the lights aren't coming on ?>

[math]

Temporary fix.

Moved the lines from K position to the +12v position that gives power to the headlights. So they come on when the headlights are on, works for both low and high beam.

But not for Fog light option. So i'll tinker with it another time. But for now, unless there is a big fog, i'm good ( where i live we don't get fog )


See in the picture, I can change the red lines where they meet up at k, to the green or blue. So they will come on when i turn the headlights on :)

wiring options.jpg