Coupe to road

[mathuisella]

So, chatted with Tsharkey today. It was good chatting.

took your advice, but sadly no go :/

it's already 1.0mm distance from the pin to pickup cable

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Original spacer was 10mm

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new one 9mm

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Sadly, the gap is now 0, just touches...

and when putting the original back in i lost the 5.5mm threaded nut :'(

sigh.


I honestly think my cable is just a dud, as it's supposed to have <1 Ohm resistance and it reads at 72.3Ohms.

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and going by pierre here, it's in the range of cable failure resistance values.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5glxTyJbgTo&t=1m30s

[mathuisella]

Starter motor change and connection clean.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZqbURzYdx0

[mathuisella]

So, my alternator wasn't giving charge...

I drove a total of approximately 120km with no alternator :)

Love it.

Clutch started when the opportunity arose, and kept the battery on the charger overnight :)


having the hinged tools are such a life saver in time and frustration, 100% recommend someone buying them when they're on special.

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I swapped out after testing the capacitor and a spare ( always get a multimeter that can test caps like this )

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i also resolder on the resistor that broke off, with a healthy dab of leaded solder

the brushes are of a really good length, they are only just worn in.

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Still no go, so the 3 diodes inside of the alternator are bad :'(

I try to open up the alternator, but without a good bench and an impact driver, it's not going to work, so i swap everything over to another alternator housing, put all of it together and we are in luck. Testing and we are charging at about 14.6 Volts, perfect, nice and healthy.

[mathuisella]

Took dash out completely so i can get to the evaporator and have it tested as i was getting AC gas coming through...

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and now with all that time wasted as it tested ok, 90PSI in it and submerged, no leaks.


in the midst of reassembly

changed the o rings ( again ) and now fixing other little things during reassembly.


The
heatercore and fan knobs were broken off from their holder, so i plastic-welded them back into place.

however a spanner in the works... a plastic knub has broken off and now i can't activate the flaps that let air to the under side of the windscreen through the dash :/

going to have to plastic weld there too i think. I gave it a shot as the sun was going down but no good. going to have to do it tomorrow.

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[Pete49]

Math its going great. Will be a new car once you're done with it. The thought of removing the dash scares the hell out of me.

[mathuisella]

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[AMG]

Math its going great. Will be a new car once you're done with it. The thought of removing the dash scares the hell out of me.

Once you get into it, the only issue is having the space to store the parts!
It CAN get complicated and taking lots of pictures as well as having factory service manual can help reduce frustrations.

Nonetheless, I do also concede the point - it is a rather scary undertaking... well it was for me when I pulled the 107 dash.

[CraigB]

Yep - I always appreciates Math's sharing, particularly the great photos..... even if i don't have a 123..... yet!

[AMG]

Craig, you missed out on that w123 300TD JG has had on a rack for 10 years.... needs an engine rebuild. and a wash ;)

[tsharkey]

I have pulled the dash pad in all my cars as generally I have had to

1. Add the Series III Insulation / Noise deadner lining to the pad
2. Add the tacho, second vacuum reservoir and cruise wiring / plumbing through the zip straps along the bottom of the windscreen
3. Replace the speakers with some decent ones, screwed in from below.
4. Add wood

Looks worse than it is.

[T-Modell]

Hats off to what you're doing ... as I know the car; Tony took me for a drive in 2018 before he sold it.

Keep up the good works
Thomas

[mathuisella]

Hey again, bit of an update.


got the top dash put in,

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having trouble putting the brace in under the crivers side of the dash, no matter which way i orientate the rod, it doesn't fit, or the plastic box for the vents is in the way, which it isn't as it's nicely bolted in place under the dash.

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[mathuisella]

Thank you everyone for the compliments :)

I just hope in the future the stresses and stuff i go through on this helps someone else out in the future :)

That's why i take these pictures.

[mathuisella]

Even when Globe is changed in the fibre spider, It still doesn't have illumination on the centre console. going to have to sort that :)

Finding out where the 12v is supposed to come from and sort it :)

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[AMG]

Do you mean the globe itself or some of the fibre optics have failed?

The fibre-optics installed in the vehicle by comparison are very low-tech when compared to modern communications fibre optics and the brass ferrules on the ends which hold the fibres captive can sometimes pinch the cable and if enough pressure is applied it can crack the fibre inside, leading to a non-functional cable.

if however the illumination is simply 'dim' then you can rectify it a couple of ways.

1. use a slightly higher rated globe in the spider (3w) and paint the inside of the spider with white paint (obviously not the ends of the fibres!) which increases the amount of reflected light in the spider.
2. polishing the ends of the fibres with a buffing wheel ( 2000+ Wet&Dry will also work) until they are very clear, which will help tremendously.
3. replacing the fibres with known functioning ones if they are broken (nothing will fix a broken one)

If the globe itself is not illuminating when you turn on the main light switch to P (ignition doesn't have to be on) then check a couple of things -

1. globe (yep state the obvious, bet you've already checked it)
2. test globe connection with DMM for +12v and that it's switched (by main light switch)
3. check fuse (yep again state the obvious, pretty sure you've done that too)
4. check earths on the dash crossmember and transmission tunnel are connected. trace the +12v using the DMM from the holder to a separate earth, and if you get voltage, check the earth cable.
5. check feed from fuse box to earth side of the globe connector with DMM for -12v, and if bypassing the main switch gives you voltage at the connector, you know you need to check the resistance of the cable from the main switch to the globe holder for conductivity and repair/replace.
6. check for +12v to the main switch - only required if main beams / tailights etc are not functional.

My guess is a faulty earth connection. Not uncommon.

Remember those fancy rotating fibre optic lamps from the 70's & 80's? How we all marvelled at the novelty. That's how it all works. light in one end, concentrates at the other end of the fibre as a 'point source' - i.e. to become a very directional/targeted light source... which goes around corners! . The only real difference is the ones in the car are thicker and sheathed in black pvc.

I guess we can all laugh at the "i can bend light" joke now, but when I was a kid, bending light required some serious mirror/prismatic addiction or access to a physics lab at the university... Yet Mercedes were implementing the technology in their vehicles long before it became fashionable.

Do you have the factory ETM for w123?

[mathuisella]

Cheers for the reply.


The globe wasn't getting 12v. I followed the wire and it goes into the thick loom before i find the cause

I put 12v to the globe and yeah it all works then :/

but in today's work...

dash is mostly complete

both seats are in.

also

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[Omar]

Do you mean the globe itself or some of the fibre optics have failed?

The fibre-optics installed in the vehicle by comparison are very low-tech when compared to modern communications fibre optics and the brass ferrules on the ends which hold the fibres captive can sometimes pinch the cable and if enough pressure is applied it can crack the fibre inside, leading to a non-functional cable.

if however the illumination is simply 'dim' then you can rectify it a couple of ways.

1. use a slightly higher rated globe in the spider (3w) and paint the inside of the spider with white paint (obviously not the ends of the fibres!) which increases the amount of reflected light in the spider.
2. polishing the ends of the fibres with a buffing wheel ( 2000+ Wet&Dry will also work) until they are very clear, which will help tremendously.
3. replacing the fibres with known functioning ones if they are broken (nothing will fix a broken one)

If the globe itself is not illuminating when you turn on the main light switch to P (ignition doesn't have to be on) then check a couple of things -

1. globe (yep state the obvious, bet you've already checked it)
2. test globe connection with DMM for +12v and that it's switched (by main light switch)
3. check fuse (yep again state the obvious, pretty sure you've done that too)
4. check earths on the dash crossmember and transmission tunnel are connected. trace the +12v using the DMM from the holder to a separate earth, and if you get voltage, check the earth cable.
5. check feed from fuse box to earth side of the globe connector with DMM for -12v, and if bypassing the main switch gives you voltage at the connector, you know you need to check the resistance of the cable from the main switch to the globe holder for conductivity and repair/replace.
6. check for +12v to the main switch - only required if main beams / tailights etc are not functional.

My guess is a faulty earth connection. Not uncommon.

Remember those fancy rotating fibre optic lamps from the 70's & 80's? How we all marvelled at the novelty. That's how it all works. light in one end, concentrates at the other end of the fibre as a 'point source' - i.e. to become a very directional/targeted light source... which goes around corners! . The only real difference is the ones in the car are thicker and sheathed in black pvc.

I guess we can all laugh at the "i can bend light" joke now, but when I was a kid, bending light required some serious mirror/prismatic addiction or access to a physics lab at the university... Yet Mercedes were implementing the technology in their vehicles long before it became fashionable.

Do you have the factory ETM for w123?

Do the W126s have the same setup? A lot of very helpful information there. Thanks Joe.

You're doing a great Job, Math.

[mathuisella]

centrelights.jpg

can't get the right heatercore light going, tested with multimeter it's broken internally. And thus not worth the time to take it all apart again.

Now i need to clean the carpets

[mathuisella]

So, just before Christmas, the engine developed a rod knock, i think a bearing spun :/

I was doing 110km/h down the highway, 125km from home when it just started making the noise, pulled over immediately and got a mate to bring a trailer and pick us up, definately cashed in a few favours there.

So, i need to pull the engine, get it on a stand, and see which piston/cylinder/rod it is and maybe just replace the whole set. Shrugs.

Lets see how we go.

I'll take as many pics/videos as i can along the way so anyone else later who gets a knocking engine can possibly fix it themselves and save their engine instead of scrapping it

[CraigB]

That is a major bummer. Just adding this because i have been pulling my hair out trying to chase a knock in my landrover 300TDI. I had suggestions of knocks could be a dodgy injector - releasing pressure in the line one by one will help ID that but also that should help you ID which cylinder is the problem ie. will go quieter when that cylinder not working. Vaccum pumps are common knock problems, also injector pump mis timing. Top end noise, oil to top end etc. I did all that and still the knock... so then i pulled the sump - which you can do with engine still in there- and pulled bearing caps - crank all good and stuck new bearings in while there...... still there. For me it must just be piston slap. The confusion for me is that I overheated it and did a head gasket. Then with same head I put another gasket in (head was on limits of warping according to manual) but at same time fitted a new vacuum pump - other one was leaking slightly. From that point on it had this knock. I have replaced whole valve train with a brand new head and run without vac pump - so really i figure the only thing left is piston slap that must have been exacerbated by the overheating.

But if your pretty confident you have spun a bearing, then you don't want to be ripping up your crankshaft and hopefully that is salvageable with a grind and oversize bearings. I just mentioned those points as possible other knocks. I've never heard a spun bearing but thought they must make one hell of a noise from the aftermath i had seen on another persons car. I wish my cousin was still alive or my best mate - both were my go to people for that sort of advice.

[tsharkey]

So, just before Christmas, the engine developed a rod knock, i think a bearing spun :/

I was doing 110km/h down the highway, 125km from home when it just started making the noise, pulled over immediately and got a mate to bring a trailer and pick us up, definately cashed in a few favours there.

So, i need to pull the engine, get it on a stand, and see which piston/cylinder/rod it is and maybe just replace the whole set. Shrugs.

Lets see how we go.

I'll take as many pics/videos as i can along the way so anyone else later who gets a knocking engine can possibly fix it themselves and save their engine instead of scrapping it

Hi Math - What makes you think it is a spun bearing ? As I understand, Tony had that motor reco'ed not so many K's ago. Did the oil pressure drop unacceptably ?

I guess you don't want to run it to do the diag's suggested but would be a huge annoyance if you tear it down only to discover the vacuum pump / injector pump is the offender .....

You can pull the sump off in situ to have a look underneath - Ron has done this. I believe you need to lift the engine somewhat to do it and be prepared for a face full of oil drips !

Keep us posted and John does have a few OM617 parts available (bearings included - I bought set for one of my OM617As a while back).

[mathuisella]

Hey there Sharkey :)

I'll give you a call in a moment, but i assume you mean lift the engine after undoing engine mounts and then trying to take off the lower and upper oil pan to see ?

I can start it for a moment to record a short video. It's definately engine rod knock. It's loud and crisp knocking that goes 1:1 with the RPM

The engine still has an oil leak, so i put in about 0.25L over the max line for the interstate trip ( to compensate for oil loss over the next 2500km ) and i believe it was airrated by the crank and then caused air bubbles and from their the oil wasn't doing it's job in the system and a bearing overheated and spun. But that's just my initial thoughts.

The oil pressure gauge was " iffy " and i had been meaning to replace it. ( when i was working on the dash, i noticed it wasn't calibrated as the needle was out of allignment with the cog is sits next to to spin between min and max.

So i don't know what happened if the oil pump died or the oil got air bubbles or something.

[CraigB]

Just thinking laterally, if it was a loosened rod bolt, that could be readily salvageable. To me, despite the mess, getting the pan off, you can check the big ends and crank journals and know where you are going.

[Pete49]

You have to love working on cars. Fix part A and part B plays up fix that .....well you get the picture.
Math your doing a fantastic job on that car and we are all watching on here amazed at what you're doing.

[Pete49]

You have to love working on cars. Fix part A and part B plays up fix that .....well you get the picture.
Math your doing a fantastic job on that car and we are all watching on here amazed at what you're doing.

[mathuisella]

Hey guys, sorry for the lack of replies and work done. It's been quite a weird time.

Honestly, with uni and a bit down overall lately and while i got a stand to work on the engine, i need to focus on uni, so nothing more until maybe july.

I leave you where i am at....

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[CraigB]

I think we have all had one of those disappointing failures and you need a bit of a breather to get the energy to get back into it. Since the original knock comments, in chasing a knock in my landrover diesel there was the suggestion that a dodgy injector or injector mis - timing can make that sort of speed knock. The process had me finding two dodgy injectors... but still got the knock!

But given the oil leaks and consumption you mentioned earlier, will be good to strip down what you need to and know exactly what you have. If you pull the sump and bearing gaps and find damage, then you know exactly what you have. At least you know the engine is good apart from this, so can concentrate on where you can see oil has leaked and finding that knock.

[mathuisella]

Thank you :)


I can also put in a new rear seal on the crank shaft :P

[Bartman4800]

And before you pull the head off, maybe do a compression test. If you find some too low values you might get to look at those specifically.

Did you watch Kent Bergsma's youtube channel lately? He had a great series on a W123 300D where they had a mysterious low compression on cylinder 3, and the reason was a big surprise!

[mathuisella]

yeah i saw that series.
Turned out a bad injector was pouring fuel in and hydrolocked the cylinder and it went down and mashed the oil squirter under the piston.

[mathuisella]

You guys have been so patient in waiting for updates. It's been eating at me for 6 months as to what the issue is. I always thought it was rod knock. Today i found out if it was or not by opening up the bottom end.


On the stand turned so i can get better access to the lower oil pan while still keeping any potential bits still in the pan and not going up into the engine.

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The damn bolt whilst in the car was perfectly be positioned to be a pain in the arse and impossible to get off due to cross member. Now it's time to deal with it....




Here, you use a good screwdriver. a square body's driver enables you do grab a long spanner or shifting spanner and get some torque on it. ALso make sure the metal goes all the way through the handle to the back of the handle where there is a striking plate, that way you get get those taps in to get it into a good position and also shock the threads before you try to undo things.

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Looks really clean under there which is a good sign.

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Not bad, but not the worst either, some bits of stuff stuck in the mesh, so it's doing it's job nicely and likely any bits that got through aren't big enough to get stuck in the oil channels and are now stuck in the oil filter.

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In the pan itself, there was about 6 tiny bits of grit, will investigate further. ( sorry forgot to take picture in the moment )

Now i put the engine upside down to undo the top half of the oil pan.



There's iirc 26 allen key bolts...

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there was a couple that didn't break free and stripped. they had to be in really bad places as well



Cutting an angled slot so i can put a screwdiver in there on an angle to hit the back end of it with a small sledge hammer to turn the bolt in an anticlockwise direction.

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and for the worst one... I had to drill the head off of it.

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https://youtu.be/nhuQjDkNN5o

[tsharkey]

Thanks for the update - Those Allen Keys are a real PITA. I have a 1/4" and 3/8" drive set of them I tend to rely on.

[CraigB]

Ive got a relatively cheap Total tools impact driver that has alan key tips in it - belt it with a hammer and you get the pulses of turning force, plus pushing in.

And your comment on oil galleries - pretty sure it goes from pump to filter and then to galleries, so cleaning and measuring oil pump and you should be pretty confident with that.

Can't wait for next installment with bearing caps off.

[mathuisella]

Thank you guys.

Not sure i'm pulling caps off as they seem to not need it.

there is 0 play in the conecting rods. Nothing. There is the forward and back "play" that's normal allowance from when you press the clutch pedal in and the whole crank goes forward about 0.1mm towards the front.

I think an injector is bad and is releasing fuel too early and with the 22:1 compression ratio it' would be causing predetonation inside the cylinder.

I'll be going over the injectors before i take the bearing caps off because those i'm more familiar with and it's less risky as i don't want to mess up any bearings on the crank :) I'll also be redoing the valve adjustment as i rushed a valve adjustment the morning before i left to drive interstate which i got 150km in before the noise started. So yeah, i'm leaning towards bad injector or a bad valve adjustment. Both of those are easier to deal with and less risky. I don't want to remove the head of the engine if i don't have to.

I bought the car from " Tony from West Aus" who said the engine had a rebuild, i'm assuming that means new liners, new pistons/rings and connecting rods with new bearings. and tony said the car had done about 60,000 KM since rebuild, so it should have a lot of life left in it yet before i need to remove the caps. I am really nervous about taking them off and messing it up, as per the pictures i'm working in a really cramped space with no room for laying things down in an orderly manner and i don't have a bench either, i have a small cupboard which wobbles like crazy which i put a bench vice onto because i had nowhere else :/ So yeah, Injectors and valve adjustment is on the cards first :)



Tony if you see this, can you message me or reply here with what was done/replaced list in the engine for the rebuild please :) Just so i can get a starting point to reference :)

[tsharkey]

i rushed a valve adjustment the morning before i left

Any of that gear loose and making the rattle ? Also, it had a bent lifter rod at one stage - is all that OK ?

Good that it is out so you can replace the rear main seal.

[mathuisella]

The rear main seal is only able to be replaced if i break away the head from the block and break the chain which i'm trying to avoid. I don't have a torque wrench and a head gasket to reassemble, as well as i would need new head bolts as they are stretch bolts.

I've taken the oil pan off as well as the valve cover.

I'll go over the valve train today and the injectors for a look :) It looked okay when i glanced at it a couple days ago, but it was getting late and packed up and called it a day only a short time before i posted all the above pictures ect:

[CraigB]

I preface this with - I'm not a mechanic and not experienced with diesel engines. Petrol engine though, I wouldn't be concerned about pulling the conrod caps and retensioning them back up again - just make sure its all clean on the faces of the cap. I agree that if you have no movement they are probably fine, but to get it stripped down that far I would just be curious to look at those faces and how they have worn. Probably just a confidence booster that it was rebuilt well. But no harm done to check the other things first.

And I just read your reply - torque wrench - I can recommend one of these - works on the smallest to the biggest ranges - I bought it because i needed some really small figures and didn't have faith in my 1/4" cheapy one - by putting my good bigger torque wrench on it with the new thing in the vice, I could check it was bang on and measuring the same. It might have been a super special but I thought i paid a fair bit less than this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/too ... 77230.html I can't imagine not having one - things like sump bolts, wheel nuts etc. I use one - means the force is even and less chance of leaks etc - that's my logic anyway but no scientific experiment to prove. Also I remember when i rallied an escort and read the works team guide on car preparation - they were red hot on the importance of not over tightening wheel nuts and evidence it stretches threads, which means less contact and don't hang on as well - torque them and all just right and evenly holding the wheel on.

And I will leave the following for discussion, but I agree about leaving the head in place if you can and especially if your seal isn't leaking..... but I did write....... forgive me for not scanning back to check - but was the rear main seal leaking? You would think with a rebuild and replacement it wouldn't, so i am only mentioning to check the surface on the crank where the lip touches. You can get oversize seals (on some engines) and that face can be skimmed to fit - but you don't want to pull the crank if you can help it. The other method my cousin told me about is that sometimes you can get seals where the lip is in a different position and therefore contact made with an unworn part of that face. He is dead now, but I reckon he said to me to compare a 380 seal with a 3.5 seal because he thought they may be different. I haven't done that yet - in fact I got a heap of 380 parts arrived with a courier just then - but if not the case, I would go to a big bearing place and see what they had on their books - I think they have systems that work on OD/ID etc.

Anyway, just what sprung to mind.

[Bartman4800]

I agree with the others to pull at least the big end bearing caps off.

It is very hard to determine the bearing play, the way you checked it. It involves limited risk but will give you a better idea of the condition of the bottom end.

If you do not have a torque wrench, there must be someone close to you who can lend you one?

However, not trying to scare you off. But torque wrenches go out of calibration. If someone lends you one and it has not been returned to zero before storage, chances are the spring has gone weak...

On the other hand, as a Mechanical Engineer I know that torqueing a bolt with a torque wrench is not a precise way to get consistent load/stretch in the fastener. Best accuracy is about +/- 25%. This is due to differences in friction coefficient between fasteners.
I know that, because the more accurate way of tensioning a bolt is measuring the stretch; usually with an ultrasonic bolt tester. So we could actually compare the 2 methods.

That is also the reason, that stretch bolts are torqued to a low value, and then rotated another x amount of degrees. This is more accurate than going to a high torque value.

For most purposes a torque wrench is fine though.

[mathuisella]

well, for the moment, i'm going to do injectors and valve and come back to that stuff.

[Bartman4800]

Well, you need a torque wrench for the injectors too....

[tsharkey]

The rear main seal is only able to be replaced if i break away the head from the block and break the chain which i'm trying to avoid.

I get the chain (although you could take the cam sprocket off with the chain complete). Why do you have to get the head off for the rear seal ?

+1 Craig +1 Bart .... Get a Torque Wrench - Needed for a whole raft of applications which you very much have the skill to do.

[mathuisella]

Hey everyone.

let me check out main seal over the weekend.

I know i have to at least lift away the crankshaft from it's seated position, which means disconnecting the main bearings and conrods and maybe even timing chain, i dunno, needs further inspection. I'm not even sure it's leaking to be honest. It looks pretty well snug in there and not 'worn away. 'shrugs. I should have taken a picture before i put the transmission adapter plate back on as the bolts i have are a bit too long for my stand, so i used the adapter plate to take up the space :)


any ways, yeah i know i looking on gumtree and other places for a torque wrench, i would really like a digital one, I saw that adapter type one from supercheap. I might grab that one when my friend visits so he can take me in his car to grab things.

I am leaning towards injectors still

based upon these pictures i took today, i think there's still vege oil residue in the system and it's gummed up the internals of the injectors perhaps ? and one of them is releasing fuel too early and causing predetonation ? thoughts ?

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note: My damn valve gapping gauges, they were missing the 2 sizes i needed :'( 0.1mm and 0.35mm ( Turbo motor has different to NA ) So i'll have to grab a new set of those.

[Bartman4800]

Don't waste your money on a digital torque wrench. You can if you want, but there is no point.

Like I said even if you use a calibrated torque wrench, it will still give you a deviation of +/- 25% due to the differences in friction.

I have an injector pressure tester, which unfortunately is missing the output tube with fittings. But I am in Perth, and you are on the other side...
Without a pressure tester you are just making guestimations. Mercmad might be able to help you.


Regards, Bart

[CraigB]

I'm getting a bit lost on the torque wrench conversation - don't buy one because they never work? Data for conrod bolts as far as i have ever seen are given as a tension and only ever heard of people using a torque wrench, but do you not use one Bart? If out by 25% then that must be ok or I am sure I would have heard stories of across the world big ends letting go for that reason. And its still going to be better than winging it by my hand anyway. I know my landrover head bolts I use a gauge for measuring angle and its a 3 stage process, but the rest gives tensions. With that digital adapter one, it came with a form with lots of test figures written on it, so I reckon out of the box it was probably accurate. That's why I made the comment that i was pleased my spring type one I tested was pretty much bang on, but I do wind it back and release tension after use. I personally wouldn't buy or trust a used one for that reason that you don't know what life its had. I don't know how this digital adapter works, but obviously it doesnt have a long spring like the other one. I was thinking that it would have better chance of not going out of calibration for that reason - it automatically releases to the same point without tension after each use.

Anyway, don't want to divert the thread - on the seal, usually you could just use a seal pick, or something equivalent, and hook the old one out and just press the new one in - eg. with a tube the right size. I think Tim's comment is mainly that if they leak, the rear seal is such a pain to replace, so with the motor out the opportunity is there. My comment was mainly that if you do pull it out, sometimes there is a groove there, but then if it was rebuilt properly they should have addressed any issues then - ie if they ground the crank, the should have addressed any problem then. If no sign of leaks when you have a chance to look closely and you are confident about the rebuild, then it might be fine - I have empathy for that situation of let sleeping dogs lie / if it aint broke etc. Anyway, you seem pretty good at pulling motors if you really needed to again!

[tsharkey]

If you pull the injectors apart, you will need a torque wrench to put them back together. Your ultrasonic cleaner will probably get rid of all the crud that is in the nozzles and you could re-use them.

But, as Barts says, you should use a pop tester as 1. You can get the release pressure the same between all 5 and 2. You can check the spray pattern to validate the nozzle is OK. Being the engineering type, you can make them out of a pressure gauge, an old injector line and a hydraulic jack.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/gen ... ester.html

I have a feeling Julian made one a few years ago. I also have one which has been used many times over the years.

[Bartman4800]

I'm getting a bit lost on the torque wrench conversation - don't buy one because they never work? Data for conrod bolts as far as i have ever seen are given as a tension and only ever heard of people using a torque wrench, but do you not use one Bart? If out by 25% then that must be ok or I am sure I would have heard stories of across the world big ends letting go for that reason. And its still going to be better than winging it by my hand anyway. I know my landrover head bolts I use a gauge for measuring angle and its a 3 stage process, but the rest gives tensions. With that digital adapter one, it came with a form with lots of test figures written on it, so I reckon out of the box it was probably accurate. That's why I made the comment that i was pleased my spring type one I tested was pretty much bang on, but I do wind it back and release tension after use. I personally wouldn't buy or trust a used one for that reason that you don't know what life its had. I don't know how this digital adapter works, but obviously it doesnt have a long spring like the other one. I was thinking that it would have better chance of not going out of calibration for that reason - it automatically releases to the same point without tension after each use.

Anyway, don't want to divert the thread - on the seal, usually you could just use a seal pick, or something equivalent, and hook the old one out and just press the new one in - eg. with a tube the right size. I think Tim's comment is mainly that if they leak, the rear seal is such a pain to replace, so with the motor out the opportunity is there. My comment was mainly that if you do pull it out, sometimes there is a groove there, but then if it was rebuilt properly they should have addressed any issues then - ie if they ground the crank, the should have addressed any problem then. If no sign of leaks when you have a chance to look closely and you are confident about the rebuild, then it might be fine - I have empathy for that situation of let sleeping dogs lie / if it aint broke etc. Anyway, you seem pretty good at pulling motors if you really needed to again!

You are correct, just buy a new spring type, they should not cost the world and usually come with a calibration cert.

All I was saying that using a torque wrench is a good way to avoid overtorqueing, but do not spend money on a digital one that can measure up to 0.1 of a Nm, because the resulting stress in the bolt can still vary +/- 25%.

I guess I got carried away and blinded you with science...

It's a bit like democracy, the best of some bad choices

[mathuisella]

I have a pop tester and a brand new unused set of nozzles i can put in.

The downsides

1. my ultrasonic cleaner burnt out a while back, and i discovered the electronics in it were only designed for USA 110V power and they used some poorly designed internal voltage adapter that didn't even work properly for our 240v system.

2. my pop tester, the fuel res on there cracked( i don't know how ), so i'm going to platic-weld it and see how we go.



With the injectors and doing them back up. I've just put them on until they feel really nice and snug with the crush washer underneath.

What do you guys think about getting this ?> Something i can use and then sit in a box out of the way and not have to worry about it getting out of whack.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/too ... 77230.html

[mathuisella]

Oh, i got word back from previous owner.
in his words "It was a full kit. I think the cylinder liners may have been honed by the engineers. Otherwise all bearings, rings, etc were replace with new ones."

and by the looks of it when i had the upper pan off, it looks brand new under there.

[mathuisella]

I know i should've tested the injectors first :'(

i realised this after i cleaned them :/ damnit. The insides are probably gummed up as fire truck, so should be good to still get an idea if it was injector failure causing my knocking sound.



I have to admit though, i am impressed with how they came up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imUXwFsVydk

[Bartman4800]

What do you guys think about getting this ?> Something i can use and then sit in a box out of the way and not have to worry about it getting out of whack.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/too ... 77230.html

For the same price you get a spring style torque wrench that does not stop working when the batteries are dead or a drop of rain falls on it.
If you take care of a spring style TW (you unload the spring after every job) it will last you almost forever. And if you are in doubt, you can have it re-calibrated for a few bucks.