Coupe to road

Post by **mathuisella** » Mon 26 Nov, 2018 10:03 pm

Thought i'd take a crack at the window today

https://youtu.be/UE-la9-cJgM

Post by **mathuisella** » Tue 27 Nov, 2018 9:29 pm

a little bent out of shape

20181127_171728 - Copy.jpg

and now back in shape

20181127_172123 - Copy.jpg

Follow up video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2WmY5eN-fw

and then putting things back together, always a pain, but alas has to be done.

there was previously some seat covers on the rear seat... had to get rid of so much waste string and hooks on the rear.

Ran out of light, so this is all i have right now

20181127_185059 - Copy.jpg

and now i have all 4 windows going down nicely, Pillarless coupe :D

Post by **VFRBoy** » Wed 28 Nov, 2018 11:07 am

Excellent!

Post by **mathuisella** » Wed 28 Nov, 2018 2:37 pm

VFRBoy wrote: ↑Wed 28 Nov, 2018 11:07 amExcellent!

Thank you,

well today

I took a gamble today and got some AC gas put into the AC system :)

I have cold AC, hopefully there's no slow leaks or if there is, it lasts until the end of January :D

The way i saw it, it needs gas in it to find a leak anyways, so yeah....

Post by **mathuisella** » Wed 19 Dec, 2018 6:38 pm

Been really busy with Christmas and GF and all that kind of stuff, so haven't done much with the car, any ways, if it's been raining lately in your area, and you own an older benz, check t he drain ports in the boot, they are porobably clogged up or dried out. and this will mean water gets in and sits rather than draining out...

20181218_140735 - Copy.jpg

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 20 Jan, 2019 5:36 am

So, i had to re-fix the rear left window again, but works nicely again now :)

Borrowed a UV light to check why my AC stopped working...

This was found...

20190119_222054.jpg

20190119_225954.jpg

I have a new tx valve, however, i don't have a new low pressure side hose, nor do i have a kit of O rings hmm...

Also, found a leak...

it was pretty bad, turned out to be the drain tube from the turbocharger into the oil pan. It was leaking at the point where the tube meets the pan...

leak.jpg

notice i'm missing an 0 ring completely :O

no wonder it was leaking...

so after taking it out, and making a new gasket... using a leather punch for the bolt holes

punch.jpg

after wresting with it for a while, i finally got it all back together.

tubein.jpg

then changed the oil.

filter.jpg

making sure to put some in the filter housing so the engine doesn't run " dry" for the first few turns of the crankshaft before it gets oil....

and clean...

116 - Copy.jpg

gave the car 3/4 of a tank and it's ready for the charity drive tomorrow :)

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 20 Jan, 2019 5:39 am

Looking for a r107 flex disc ;)

hint...

20190113_155625 - Copy.jpg

Post by **markb** » Sun 20 Jan, 2019 5:19 pm

Great thread Mathuisella, having just read from post 1 to today. I really admire your patience and analogy....after my last car (a non-MB) where I installed a high compression race motor, I finally came to the conclusion that I’ve lost a lot of patience, probably because I don’t have the body of a 20 yo anymore

(The solution was to finish ‘the beast’ flog it and buy my another Benz, my current CE.....8.5 years later, this is the longest I’ve ever owned any car... :dance: )

Keep up the posts

Post by **mathuisella** » Mon 21 Jan, 2019 12:48 am

Thank you :)

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 27 Jan, 2019 8:51 pm

So, i heard some squeaking and time to check the brakes...

fronts were okay, rear ones though...

So here i am knocking out the retainer pins and the spring

51218511_490914381312941_5135520364654231552_n(1).jpg

and check out how little is left

50565891_750790641952166_2463214888726560768_n.jpg

Also noticed this...

The rubber section of the
brake lines.

50693475_526480261164678_6455409311303598080_n.jpg

So i went around and changed all 4 corners

51338538_759452521088792_5347185290828054528_n.jpg

51128984_1968715449918182_2300927328949108736_n(1).jpg

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 10 Feb, 2019 5:10 pm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQijPtwJyBM

Post by **mathuisella** » Tue 26 Feb, 2019 1:21 pm

52641271_251009355775496_8987298966156607488_n.jpg

$220 later :'(

the oil filter housing to engline block gasket. $8.00 from mercedes stealership, however they are no longer available and nowhere has any except mercedes source in the USA

the front crank seal $80 from Mercedes stealership, however they don't have the extra metal sealing/ride on piece anymore, only place if mercedes source in the USA

I got killed on exchange rate and shipping costs :'(

these better bloody work

Post by **Pete49** » Tue 26 Feb, 2019 3:06 pm

Can't make your own with gasket card? (paper) I always carry a little bit 'just in case'.

Post by **Bartman4800** » Tue 26 Feb, 2019 7:15 pm

Yes, and also the front oil seal can be replaced with any ordinary metric oil seal you purchase at CBC/Statewide Bearing/etc...
As long as the dims are the same.

Bart

Post by **mathuisella** » Tue 26 Feb, 2019 9:22 pm

Pete49 wrote: ↑Tue 26 Feb, 2019 3:06 pm Can't make your own with gasket card? (paper) I always carry a little bit 'just in case'.

I got the OEM one and its different, not just paper. It's got a thin sheet of metal in between 2 sides of dimpled rubber. It's like they expect these to leak over time, and it's sectioned off much like a bunker style of ship where if one compartment leaks, the rest isn't compromised.

Bart, i had no idea it could be a generic one :'(

Post by **tsharkey** » Wed 27 Feb, 2019 11:54 am

Hi Math, Although I like Kent and have bought some of his tools, have been using Pelican Parts since John brought down the shutters.

Parts.JPG

Cheers,

Post by **mathuisella** » Fri 01 Mar, 2019 11:27 pm

https://youtu.be/LWowgkxF6Ww

feel like an idiot not going there first :/

but oh well.

made a start on it and took some clips :) Hope it's helpful for others down the track

Post by **tsharkey** » Sat 02 Mar, 2019 10:25 am

Good work - I have to do one on the wagon some am watching with interest.

Post by **drew56cus** » Sun 03 Mar, 2019 7:28 am

With your question about the flex disc - I got all excited and thought you were going to ditch that oil burner and put an M116 V8 into it!
I have a good 380 engine waiting for something here, a 123 coupe with a dead engine could be a good fit...
Oh well, good luck with all your oil leaks etc, you are doing a great job.

Post by **mathuisella** » Mon 04 Mar, 2019 12:31 am

drew56cus wrote: ↑Sun 03 Mar, 2019 7:28 am With your question about the flex disc - I got all excited and thought you were going to ditch that oil burner and put an M116 V8 into it!
I have a good 380 engine waiting for something here, a 123 coupe with a dead engine could be a good fit...
Oh well, good luck with all your oil leaks etc, you are doing a great job.

Haha, nah i like my diesels, the low end rev range torque is nice and much better fuel economy.

Also

Part 2 of the front crank seal saga...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJ3XXzWvEHE

trucking bolt...

Post by **mathuisella** » Tue 05 Mar, 2019 4:04 am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jkHY5TVCjY

part 3 :D good progress :D

Post by **mathuisella** » Thu 07 Mar, 2019 4:15 pm

Part 4,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JI7OaCT4Wc

seal is in, everything reassembled. yet still dripping oil out the bottom of the car :/ I think I need to wash it all down, raise the car up, scrub it all by hand to get decades of gunk off, wash/rinse and see where it's leaking from now :/

I've already cleaned the front of the engine when i had visual there :)

20190304_163510.jpg

Post by **Bartman4800** » Thu 07 Mar, 2019 4:42 pm

That replacement bolt you put in, is of a lower quality than the factory ones.

If you look at the head of the allen key bolt, it should state 10.9 or 12.9

That is the quality you should get. And they won't be zinc plated.

About the leak: the new seal is running on the hub of the balancer. Did you check that for scoring.
In theory you could still have a leak between the balancer and the crankshaft (if it comes from that area)

Personally I would not have put sealant between the oil seal and the engine block; the outside is a flexible rubber which should seal there.

Bart

Post by **merc-304** » Thu 07 Mar, 2019 5:08 pm

Was there a need to heat the balancer to reinstall.... And could the heat from it have affected the sealing of the seal ?

Post by **tsharkey** » Thu 07 Mar, 2019 5:31 pm

Good video's Jamie,
What was the tool you used to push the seal into the crankcase ? A homemade special ?

Bartman4800 wrote: ↑Thu 07 Mar, 2019 4:42 pm About the leak: the new seal is running on the hub of the balancer. Did you check that for scoring.

Bart - if the balancer is scored, given any machining might invalidate the seal, is there a way around it ?

Post by **mathuisella** » Thu 07 Mar, 2019 6:23 pm

the Balancer needs to be heated to press on as it's just too tight otherwise.

I followed the tips in these videos when putting it together
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIx0WrCqFdQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOfOHMI6Wnc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lkdsd6kcKcI

I saw somewhere that it was a good idea to put some good sealant on the outer lip of the seal and in the above video's is where i got the idea about the grease on the spring and on the inside lip for ease of installation.

on the ring it rides on, there was a bit of discolouration, but no scoring at all, i did the fingernail trick to see if it catches ( all the way around it ) and it was buttery smoothe

Sigh :(

Maybe i need to wash the entire engine, dry it off and get an inspection camera to see where the leak is from.

Post by **Bartman4800** » Thu 07 Mar, 2019 6:44 pm

tsharkey wrote: ↑Thu 07 Mar, 2019 5:31 pm Good video's Jamie,
What was the tool you used to push the seal into the crankcase ? A homemade special ?

Bartman4800 wrote: ↑Thu 07 Mar, 2019 4:42 pm About the leak: the new seal is running on the hub of the balancer. Did you check that for scoring.
Bart - if the balancer is scored, given any machining might invalidate the seal, is there a way around it ?

Yes, there is. It is called a speedy sleeve. You machine the OD of the hub down, then glue the speedy sleeve on with bearing retainer.

I doubt the balancer really needs heating, the engineers in Zjermanie would have made it a sliding fit because heating would slow the assembly process down and make it more dangerous.

If the balancer was heated over 150 degrees the seal might have been burned...
Also, the grease trick is a bit moot if you slide the hub in from the face side of the seal. It is just impossible that way to pop out the spring...

Bart

Post by **tsharkey** » Thu 07 Mar, 2019 9:10 pm

I am presuming that

1. It's not diesel leaking anywhere
2. Rocker cover is OK

Try the sump pan as they are notorious on the OM617A as they are much larger. If not the pan, I think you have sorted the return oil from the turbo.

Post by **mathuisella** » Fri 08 Mar, 2019 12:43 am

I made another video after a 5km trip to a carpark under some lights and took a video with my phone

hopefully it answers some questions :)

would love some tips/advice as i'm pretty stressed out about this :/

https://youtu.be/88rx5ftKn1s

Post by **Bartman4800** » Fri 08 Mar, 2019 4:16 pm

This should not be so hard to find.

Clean the underside with a pressure washer or otherwise in the best way you can.

Get the car on a hoist with a running engine.

Look for oil running out of seals/joins etc.

Bart

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 10 Mar, 2019 2:26 am

Anyone know where i can get a small enough puller to pull of the spacer ring on the crankshaft ?

I did the fingernail test like mercedessource kent suggested and it was silky smooth, it was only discolouration :/ i dunno, but thinking i should change it out.

There's no way to take the crank seal out now without destroying it. New Seal is about $80 + GST from the sealership which works out about the same as getting one from the states.

I have to wait to test though. I was thinking about pulling everything off and running the engine without even the harmonic balancer on there... and making the turbo spool up to put pressure in the crankcase, it would only take 20 seconds or so to see where the leak is coming from....

Or should i leave the balancer on, hmm decisions

I think the best bet is to put the car up, clean everything sparking clean. take everything off except for the balancer ( leave radiator on ) this way i'll get the best chance at seeing the leak, and after i've ran the car for a bit, pull the balancer off if need be with the puller to confirm the seal i got is stuffed

20190304_172031.jpg

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 10 Mar, 2019 3:31 am

Maybe i should've waited a week to see this video haha

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQNwcUAGRf4

part of their build to make the rally car.

wish i had that tool :O

also, last time i listen to Kent and put some oil gasket sealant around the seal on the crank :/ That's probably why it's leaking.

Post by **Bartman4800** » Mon 11 Mar, 2019 2:15 pm

So the seal actually runs on a bushing that sits behind the balancer.

Is it possible this one is scored and causes the leak?

You obviously do not have the fancy tools from the video.
Chances are this bushing is just a sliding fit and can be pulled out gently with a pair of pliers.

Bart

Post by **mathuisella** » Tue 12 Mar, 2019 10:23 pm

it had discolouration, but no groove worn in :/ on the metal spacer bushing it runs on.

I have a spare metal bushing. I Don't like my chances of being able to get the seal off without damaging it, so no chance of reseating it.

It'll have to wait a while I'm behind on uni stuff.

Post by **Bartman4800** » Wed 13 Mar, 2019 11:42 am

I watched that video about the front seal replacement as well last night.
I did not recall him saying to put sealant around the OD, but he explained why he used sticky grease to stop the spring from popping out.

I personally think there is a bigger risk with the spring coming out, when you slide the seal over a bushing and the inner lip catches.
If it flips inwards, the spring will come off.

He also mentioned the inner bush (behind the balancer) to wear away and be part of the cause.

But if your bush was not scored, the seal should not leak (even if you installed it with some sealant on the OD)
Only if you overheated it, and it has gone brittle.

But finish your uni work first, then have a close look where the exact leak is from. Again, with a cleaned engine, the oil leak should be easy to spot with the engine running.

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 31 Mar, 2019 8:40 am

55517477_1243732102450839_6467630928507174912_n.jpg

all the keys on synchos 1 and 2 were sheared off :O

they have been replaced :)

55517477_1243732102450839_6467630928507174912_n.jpg

Next is to fix sunroof leak :'( only found this out yesturday in the rain... 1st time it was taken out under rainy weather.

I can stand a bit of an oil leak for the moment, but having the sunroof leak on you as you're driving sucks also the risk of rust as well.

time to take out the sunroof and see what we have to deal with.

Post by **Pete49** » Sun 31 Mar, 2019 2:26 pm

Gee whiz you're having fun. Reminds me of an old saying involving wheels and a woman's body part But I wouldn't have it any other way. I fell I'm a masochist.

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 31 Mar, 2019 4:29 pm

Pete49 wrote: ↑Sun 31 Mar, 2019 2:26 pm Gee whiz you're having fun. Reminds me of an old saying involving wheels and a woman's body part But I wouldn't have it any other way. I fell I'm a masochist.

Do tell of this old saying ?

Also, i have been busy.... lots of reading and research and putting it all together in 1 video. I hope it comes in hand for everyone who has a sunroof.

Sunroof drain port fix

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXvcOuzcleQ

Post by **Christo C** » Sun 31 Mar, 2019 6:03 pm

I’ve been playing “Spot the difference” with those two last photos of the synchros - can’t find anything! :wall:

Post by **Pete49** » Sun 31 Mar, 2019 9:11 pm

mathuisella wrote: ↑Sun 31 Mar, 2019 4:29 pm
Pete49 wrote: ↑Sun 31 Mar, 2019 2:26 pm Gee whiz you're having fun. Reminds me of an old saying involving wheels and a woman's body part But I wouldn't have it any other way. I fell I'm a masochist.
Do tell of this old saying ?

If it has wheels or knockers you will have trouble with it.
Now its got me. My W116 drivers power window won't go up but makes a clunking noise. Sounds like a problem you had too?

Post by **mathuisella** » Mon 01 Apr, 2019 4:09 pm

Pete49 wrote: ↑Sun 31 Mar, 2019 9:11 pm
mathuisella wrote: ↑Sun 31 Mar, 2019 4:29 pm
Pete49 wrote: ↑Sun 31 Mar, 2019 2:26 pm Gee whiz you're having fun. Reminds me of an old saying involving wheels and a woman's body part But I wouldn't have it any other way. I fell I'm a masochist.
Do tell of this old saying ?
If it has wheels or knockers you will have trouble with it.
Now its got me. My W116 drivers power window won't go up but makes a clunking noise. Sounds like a problem you had too?

Any chance of a video ?

WHat i would do is take the trim off and take a look at the mechanism in action to see what's exactly going on.

Mine was different in that the rear left window wouldn't go all the way down.

Post by **Pete49** » Tue 02 Apr, 2019 2:34 pm

Well had the trim off and I'm going to be removing the window mechanism as it looks like the motor gear is worn. I guess for a car that turned 44 last month you sort of expect parts to wear out. Looks like I know what I'll be working on next :dance:

Post by **mathuisella** » Wed 03 Apr, 2019 7:41 am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXvcOuzcleQ

sunroof leak sorted :)

Post by **mathuisella** » Thu 11 Apr, 2019 5:24 pm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0C7ReadVNuo

getting that front crankshaft new seal + new sealing ring.

also putting gasket sealer in area where it wasn't before, but should've been.

Post by **mathuisella** » Sat 13 Apr, 2019 8:52 am

Looks like the front crank seal was leaking down over the oil pan, hiding the fact that it has been leaking as well. So time to sort that out today.

Post by **DirtyFingernails** » Fri 03 May, 2019 10:00 pm

Yep, your sure having some fun mate. OM617A with manual trans though, dream rig! Enjoying the updates.

Post by **mathuisella** » Sun 05 May, 2019 3:08 am

DirtyFingernails wrote: ↑Fri 03 May, 2019 10:00 pm Yep, your sure having some fun mate. OM617A with manual trans though, dream rig! Enjoying the updates.

Thank you.

The car has 1 last leak, which is the oil pan seal. going to take my time to get to that one as i have other things to do sadly.

edit: just saw that you are in brissy as well :D

Post by **mathuisella** » Thu 20 Jun, 2019 7:51 pm

Turbo drain tube is leaking again.

At least this time around i know how to do the job :)

Trying to replace the sunroof cable, but when feeding in the new cable, it gets blocked 2 feet into the feeding.

Feeding from the sunroof end.

it seems to get stopped when it tries to turn the first bend to head towards the rear left window direction on it's way to the sunroof motor in the boot.

also, working on tachometer.

It needs calibration or something.

I have Brand new OEM signal pickup wire.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mercedes-28 ... 2749.l2649

It's reading 72 ohms, which isn't giving me confidence as according to pierre 70+ ohms starts to see failure, but my cable is brand new :'(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5glxTyJbgTo

i got a new tach amplifier

Wired it all up like this

wiring up w123 tachometer.png

and it's having this effect
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBfHjedhKRs

Post by **tsharkey** » Thu 20 Jun, 2019 9:14 pm

So you got yourself a diesel tacho ... makes the job much easier to get the tach amp, as the guy in Texas who made the after market ones that woudl convert diesel single pule into 2 or 3 pules for 4 or 6 cyl tachs no longer has a presence on the web.

I have had that problem. The sensor is too far away from the harmonic balancer. Reduce the clearance (be carful it is not too close !) and your idle rpm will be shown.

btw - The Crank angle sensor is the same as that on the M103 and M110, so get the one from Lockiedogs 280 he is wrecking for a spare.

Post by **mathuisella** » Fri 21 Jun, 2019 10:56 am

tsharkey wrote: ↑Thu 20 Jun, 2019 9:14 pm So you got yourself a diesel tacho ... makes the job much easier to get the tach amp, as the guy in Texas who made the after market ones that woudl convert diesel single pule into 2 or 3 pules for 4 or 6 cyl tachs no longer has a presence on the web.

I have had that problem. The sensor is too far away from the harmonic balancer. Reduce the clearance (be carful it is not too close !) and your idle rpm will be shown.

btw - The Crank angle sensor is the same as that on the M103 and M110, so get the one from Lockiedogs 280 he is wrecking for a spare.

Thank you :)

I'll send him a message.

Sadly i don't think the position is adjustable. as per the picture below with the bracket it mounts in/on.

20190304_163520.jpg