Vacuum diagram

[mathuisella]

Hey all, well i've ran into a snag. I took apart the nest of vacuum lines in the engine bay to find where my leaks were.

Now i cannot remember how it all goes back together

I have
1 x 5 way T piece
1 x 1 in, 3 out check valve

1x purple line
1x yellow + green ( door open )
1x yellow + red ( door close )
1x yellow + grey
1x yellow
1x blue
1x grey

insure how these puzzle pieces are to link up :( if anyone is able to help that would be great, thank you. ( i cannot find my haynes hard cover book :( )

[Chai]

To get you running:
1) locate the plastic line to the vacuum source (manifold?)
2) plug the "1 in - 3 out check valve, ensuring the air-flow leads towards the vacuum line
3) plug the "1 x 5 way T-piece" to any one of the check-valve lines.
4) plug the remaining plastic lines to all the free ends.

This setup will provide vacuum to all plastic lines leading to the car.
The finesse can come after some pictures are posted.

[Pete49]

Also if you google it you will find a colour diagram of it. I'm not home at the moment so can't access my manual

[tsharkey]

Grey runs between Brake Booster line into the 5 way Tee

Yellow and Yellow and Grey should sit behind a one in - two out check valve. The one in goes on the 5 way spider. This creates vacuum in the tank up rear and applies vacuum to the central locking

Yellow Green / Yellow Red should not be in the engine bay. They go to the Drivers lock valve and depending on the position of the lock status, vacuum is applied to that side of the system

Purple is Headlights - can go on on 5 way spider.

Usually you will have
brown (diesel shut off valve at ignition)
green (air con vacuum controlled flaps
and black (auto vacuum position) - deleted in your case

Blue is on a coupe and used to control the seat locks, what does it do on your car ?

Where is the diesel shut off and air con ?

[mathuisella]

Sorry for not getting back sooner, uni has been taking all my time lately. I'll grab a few pics/video now :) eta 30 mins to next post

[mathuisella]

Here we go.

I labelled things as i knew them.

31602839_10214079198426783_9145407050308648960_n.jpg

I connected them up as i read the last couple of posts hopefully correctly

32555556_10214079197466759_70160614357467136_n.jpg

Purple is headlights as was mentioned :)

and i have a green with yellow stripe, i assume that's for the AC system ?

I labelled the valve just in case there's a particular way to connect things to which port on the valve

the blue line that i have goes to the auto transmission shift, which i just want to block off, 1 less place for potential leaks.

[mathuisella]

some how im not able to get more than 1 picture to upload in a post :'(

Here's the other one of how i connected it all up

32555556_10214079197466759_70160614357467136_n.jpg

[tsharkey]

some how im not able to get more than 1 picture to upload in a post :'(

Here's the other one of how i connected it all up32555556_10214079197466759_70160614357467136_n.jpg

2 and 3 need to be behind their own 1 in 2 out check valve, otherwise the tank will leak down.

The rest look fine.

[mathuisella]

My valve i think is different

valvetop.JPG

4.JPG

to correspond with the diagram

diagram.JPG

Hopefully that's correct ?

[tsharkey]

I've not encountered a 1 on 3 out before.

The plumbing looks correct but the issue will be that if any of the heater / headlight / Vacuum Stop have a leak, it will affect CL. Often one of these systems will. I would get ahold of a 1 in 2 out to isolate the CL from the rest.

[mathuisella]

I agree.

So the Central locking and vacuum pressure tank should be isolated ? and the rest just connected with the 5 way "t piece"

I called up the local dealer and it was over $130 for a 1 in 2 out check valve :'(

[Tony From West Oz]

go to a wreckers who have W123 in stock you should be able to get one from them. Otherwise get a 1 in 1 out valve and a rubber Tee to connect them together on the isolated side of the one way valve.

[tsharkey]

I called up the local dealer and it was over $130 for a 1 in 2 out check valve :'(

PM your address and I'll send you one. I have a box full of them. Otherwise, head off to any wrecker on you way to / from Uni as they are the same 116, 123, 124, 126, 201 ......

[tsharkey]

So the Central locking and vacuum pressure tank should be isolated ? and the rest just connected with the 5 way "t piece"

Yes

I called up the local dealer and it was over $130 for a 1 in 2 out check valve :'(

PM your address and I'll send you one. I have a box full of them. Otherwise, head off to any wrecker on you way to / from Uni as they are the same 116, 123, 124, 126, 201 ......

[mathuisella]

I kinda have things working.

I deleted the line for the automatic transmission as the car is now manual transmission. ( this was blue line )

The Air conditioning vacuum line ( green )
There's a leak in this line, the pink thing :'( and the AC works without it, so i'll just block off the thing for the time being.

acbs.JPG

I went around the car checking all the door vacuum locks.

paperwork.JPG

and i still have a leak, all the doors, including fuel door and boot work while the car is running and for a few minutes after, but there's a slow leak in the system i'm yet to find. My vacuum gauge is a cheapie and the needle moves if the unit is bumped eg: putting it down to walk away and wait :'(

I've started replacing all the line couplings with brand new silicon as per pictures below.

newconnectors.JPG

I'm about half way done with replacing the old rubber connections with silicon ones. Left the car locked last night and seeing if it will hold pressure after changing the ones i've done thus far.

PM incomming Tsharkey

[tsharkey]

The Air conditioning vacuum line ( green )
There's a leak in this line, the pink thing :'( and the AC works without it, so i'll just block off the thing for the time being.

The pink thing is an actuator that shift the air flow flap. They all eventually leak.

acbs.JPG

I went around the car checking all the door vacuum locks.

and i still have a leak, all the doors, including fuel door and boot work while the car is running and for a few minutes after, but there's a slow leak in the system i'm yet to find. My vacuum gauge is a cheapie and the needle moves if the unit is bumped eg: putting it down to walk away and wait :'(

I presume you have just the 2 yellow jobs into the 3 way Check and the mity vac on the 3rd outlet.

That way you are testing just the CL. If it doesn't hold vacuum, either
i) The 1 in, 2 out switch valve in the drivers door is the offender
ii) Line to tank / tank
iii) You missed something.

Test 1 - Block off the outlet going to the vacuum tank at the 3 way check valve with a golf tee
Use the mity vac to test the non tank side. The system should hold vacuum when in either lock / unlock state. If not, then it is the links you are replacing, you missed one of the actuators or the lock / unlock valve.

Test 2 - Block off the outlet going to the door lock / unlock at the 3 way check valve with a golf tee
Use the mity vac to test the tank side. If it doesn't hold vacuum, check line and tank itself (under rear parcel shelf).


Will check a few two ways for you.

[mathuisella]

I tested each line individually to try and narrow down some leaks if any were present.

32721326_10214092923329897_7383872986048102400_n.jpg