Removing the driver's door

1961-1968: a.k.a "Finnie" or "Heckflosse" models
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Big Daddy
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Removing the driver's door

Post by Big Daddy » Fri 30 May, 2014 11:35 am

Hi all

I'm going to have to remove the driver's door to repair the metal where the check strap attaches to the door. The whole mounting has been torn away and will need re-welding. Are there any tips or suggestions that I should know in advance? Naturally, I'll remove the door trims etc first.

Thanks
Mark
2006 Toyota Hilux - fridge on wheels
1961 Ford Thunderbird convertible - the evil twin
1989 Volvo 240
1990 Toyota Coaster Motorhome

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Mercmad
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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by Mercmad » Fri 30 May, 2014 12:22 pm

Use an engine crane to support the door, mark around the hinges where they fit.

Big Daddy
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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by Big Daddy » Sat 02 Aug, 2014 12:15 pm

OK,so the door has been stripped ready for removal. Can anyone give me some hints about loosening those four large phillips head screws on each hinge? I have the correct size screwdriver but these babies haven't been touched since the car was assembled and are tight. Should I use an impact driver? First, do no harm....

Cheers
Mark
2006 Toyota Hilux - fridge on wheels
1961 Ford Thunderbird convertible - the evil twin
1989 Volvo 240
1990 Toyota Coaster Motorhome

KimB
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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by KimB » Sat 02 Aug, 2014 12:38 pm

Big Daddy wrote:OK,so the door has been stripped ready for removal. Can anyone give me some hints about loosening those four large phillips head screws on each hinge? I have the correct size screwdriver but these babies haven't been touched since the car was assembled and are tight. Should I use an impact driver? First, do no harm....

Cheers
Mark
Hi Mark,

Would giving them a spray with WD40 or similar penetrating spray for metal be worth a go first? You may need to let the spray soak in for a few hours to be effective.
Cheers
Kim
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

Big Daddy
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Model you own: w110
Location: Sydney

Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by Big Daddy » Sat 02 Aug, 2014 5:17 pm

I'll do that Kim but I'm not sure how deep I can get it to penetrate given the paint.
2006 Toyota Hilux - fridge on wheels
1961 Ford Thunderbird convertible - the evil twin
1989 Volvo 240
1990 Toyota Coaster Motorhome

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drew56cus
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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by drew56cus » Sat 02 Aug, 2014 6:01 pm

I have a big screwdriver bit that fits in my air rattle gun. I set it on its weakest setting and got them off that way - but push hard, you don't want to round them out...
Drew
'65 220SE 4.5 Frankenbenz finnie :)
'65 220SE/C (#1 project - Tenorite grey)
'64 300SE/C (#2 project)
'66 250SE/C (#3 project)

kentapenta
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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by kentapenta » Tue 13 Jan, 2015 4:06 am

Here´s another tips if you need to take off a door.
A 3mm hole will make it like a walk in the park when you shall reinstall the door
and if you want it to be exactly like before.

Image

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Bartman4800
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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by Bartman4800 » Tue 13 Jan, 2015 4:10 pm

I used a Phillips head bit that I mount into an adapter, which fits onto my 1/2" ratchet.

Phillips bits come in various sizes, I think this is Phillips #3. Make sure you get the right one, otherwise you round the screw and you have to drill it out.

Image

I replaced my screws with allen key countersunk; better availability and easier to remove...


Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
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2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)

CraigB
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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by CraigB » Tue 13 Jan, 2015 8:38 pm

my tool of choice in the past has been a simple impact driver but get one from a reasonable quality tool place. I had cheap ones in the past and for tough use when you smack them with a mash hammer they can smash internally. I got one from total tools for something like $30 and have had it for years. I don't disagree with the other methods here, but as Drew has pointed out, if you let it slip on a really tough one and strip it out, then you will be drilling it out. The advantage of the impact driver is that every time you smack it with a big hammer it is hitting that screwdriver bit deep into the screw, while the internal ramp in it twists. These tapered screws have lots of surface area to hang on and hitting it also is moving it and shocking it out of place. The ultimate tool would be what Ron had recommended for head bolts being called an old man knocker and other names, but basically is a socket extension that fits into your air chisel, that you could put a socket that accepts a screw driver bit like Bart has shown, but my impact driver has never failed me yet.
Craig Baulderstone
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Mercmad
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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by Mercmad » Wed 14 Jan, 2015 9:34 am

I use a thing I made myself ,called by snap on and others "old man knocker" it fits in a pnuematic chisel.. A few quik taps with this and ANY screw will come undone. that includes frozen head bolts too.
Image
you put a impact phillips head driver in the end,the other end goes into the chisel and then you apply it to screws. A quick pull on the trigger and the screw is loose.

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Re: Removing the driver's door

Post by CraigB » Wed 14 Jan, 2015 9:56 am

I beg to differ on 'any' frozen head bolt - but yes I agree that this is as good as it gets. Available from T&E tools, a distributor that most of your local tool shops will deal with, but it was something like $70 plus you need air compressor etc. etc. And for the size of these screws, like i said even ones on rusty wrecks in the open have never been a problem for my impact driver. The other method i didn't mention is to get the right size screw driver and while trying to turn hit the end with a hammer, which is basically doing what the impact driver is doing but not as effectively.
Craig Baulderstone
Lurch
280s's
280SE3.5
280SL
350SL
500SEC's
560SEL's

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