Rust Hunting

1961-1968: a.k.a "Finnie" or "Heckflosse" models
190, 190D, 200, 200D, 220b, 220Sb, 220SEb, 230, 230S, 250SE coupe, 280SE coupe, 280SE 3.5 coupe, 220SEb cabrio., 250SE conv., 280SE cabrio., 280SE 3.5 Cabrio., 300SE, 300SE coupe, 300SE conv., 300SEL
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Jeremy
E Class
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Model you own: w111
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Rust Hunting

Post by Jeremy » Fri 23 Jan, 2015 8:26 pm

Decided to have a poke around the floors today and see what might be hiding under the factory sound deadener. One thing led to another and I stripped out the entire interior and scraped the whole lot off.
2015-01-23 15.00.31.jpg
My door seals on the drivers side have been suspect since I got the car, but the expense has prevented me from doing anything about it. Seeing the rust that was building up down there has prompted me to suck it up and start phoning around for some quotes so I don't end up with a flintstones car.

I also discovered that at some point the car has had a seriously good whack from underneath on the rear passenger side footwell, as the floor is completely bowed upwards and the box section is slightly caved in.
2015-01-23 17.23.58.jpg
2015-01-23 17.24.12.jpg
I'm not sure how serious this is for the structural integrity of the car, but I can't really see an easy way to correct it either. I may just treat it, paint it and forget about it, unless anyone can provide an alternative.

Also found a nice little puddle under the rear seat which thankfully hasn't started to rust yet.
2015-01-23 18.41.46.jpg
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1965 220Sb

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Mercmad
Mercedes Demigod
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by Mercmad » Fri 23 Jan, 2015 9:35 pm

you are lucky you still have a floor.... I am doing one right now which had a lot of patches . After i removed the patches there was no floor ...or right hand inner chassis rail. The drivers door wouldn't open properly meaning the car was twisting . i have made a new rail ,floor and seat box ,plus two new sills and jack points to rectify this.
Yet,i have another on the hoist at the moment which is an OZ built finny with the most perfect floor i have ever seen . No rust in the body anywhere...really rare for an OZ built version. :laughing6:

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T-Modell
SLS AMG
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by T-Modell » Fri 23 Jan, 2015 9:40 pm

For this work I bought this machine here: http://www.bosch-do-it.com/gb/en/diy/to ... 199915.jsp
Image

Quite handy to get that stuff off ...

Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

konrad
Adenauer
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by konrad » Fri 23 Jan, 2015 10:32 pm

Made in Germany (good) or China (bad)?

CraigB
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by CraigB » Fri 23 Jan, 2015 10:47 pm

Yep - i was thinking what a great condition looking floor. Not sure if you are looking to win a concourse, but to me i would be using maybe something like Thomas has but just clean up the rusty bits and paint with Penetrol - You can paint over this if you want, once sealed a bit of seam sealer might make it look nicer and you can paint body colour over it.

But your dent, wouldn't be worried about structural integrity. Is it just that one side dented? One thing you could try, and need a couple of pairs of hands to help - but i reckon there is probably enough strength across the tops of the door openings - remove the trim and maybe a couple of extra blocks and not just against the pinch welded seam - i would try a decent lump of wood (say 3 x 2") across those door openings/bottom of roof. Then put a bottle jack on the floor right up close to the dent and the right length piece of wood up to that other bit. Go slow, mates helping you to see nothing else bending. You are not looking to push it out with that, just put pressure on it and then hammer at the high points, bit more jack pressure, hammer again etc. You are trying to put a bit of pulling pressure on the dent and then hitting hard enough to try and relieve the tension where it has been built up.

I dont know if that makes any sense - your not in adelaide are you? Alternatively you could cut the dented part out and then it would be easy to hammer the dent out and then weld a straight bit back in - but 1. I would try the first method first and 2. I dont know if i would be that worried about something fairly hidden like that.

Shame about the cross member, have been taking dents out of the floor of my W107 - just looking for high points and using a piece of hardwood on the dent and hammer, a couple of times using dolly from underneath but pretty easy to get the nice and straight. But it always fascinates me how so many cars have dented floors - do they go 4WDing or go spotlighting - could take a good shot i suppose sitting on the back of the sl and using the top of the windscreen to rest the rifle!
Craig Baulderstone
Lurch
280s's
280SE3.5
280SL
350SL
500SEC's
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T-Modell
SLS AMG
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by T-Modell » Fri 23 Jan, 2015 11:19 pm

konrad wrote:Made in Germany (good) or China (bad)?
I guess China ...
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

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markb
300 SLR
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Location: Melbourne, Australia

Re: Rust Hunting

Post by markb » Sat 24 Jan, 2015 7:36 am

konrad wrote:Made in Germany (good) or China (bad)?
I picked one of these tools from Aldi last year, cheap at $30 with all the accessories that come in the kit.
Current Fleet
1985 C123 280CE Midnight Blue with blue MB Tex (245k klms, Daily Driver 2010- )
Past Benzes:
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 White (2002-2003 project sold to fellow OzBenzer)
1971 W108 280SE 3.5 White (1999-2006 Unmolested original & sadly missed)
1987 S124 230TE Diamond Blue (2002-2007 Family cruiser)
1983 W126 280SE Champagne 106k Klms (Custodian in 2013)
1969 W113 280SL Champagne (Custodian in 2000)
1988 W124 300E Diamond Blue (2016 project sold to fellow OzBenzer)

CraigB
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by CraigB » Sat 24 Jan, 2015 9:19 am

I guess this is straying from topic, but I bought an Ozito one with the 3 yr warranty mainly curious how they work. I think it was something like $70. I found it was fantastic for some jobs, not so good for others. My Amilcar has wooden floor panels that press fit in and one not a straight forward shape, which of course was the one that got blown out of it (no roof) when trailering the car at high speed. On the marine ply I traced the shape with paper and this tool was fantastic at cutting gently and perfectly online and then to shave bits to make it fit. Took me a fraction of the time as the original ones i made and therefore paid for itself. I thought it would be great for cutting rusted steel out, in patches for rust repair, but it very quickly made them blunt and the bits for it cost heaps. It very nicely and gently separated the widebody panels off the steel wit minimal damage and cleans off bog without too much dust you would get from sanding. I have never used it as a sander but should try that sometime, but similar action to an orbital i had thought. My policy has been to buy these cheap tools and if I find myself using them heaps, then I buy a good one. I reckon it would be perfect with the flat bladed for taking off glue, under body sealer etc but paint on steel I would use a clean and strip wheel which you can use in drill, grinder, or best one the right angle air die grinder - use that one a lot. But I would happily buy a $30 one for a small job like that and if you get more use than that great - No Aldi in Adelaide yet as far as I know but was great when in the UK.

But I am always curious when someone has a favourite tool for doing a job - sometimes you try something someone else has found and it can save you a stack of time.
Craig Baulderstone
Lurch
280s's
280SE3.5
280SL
350SL
500SEC's
560SEL's

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Jeremy
E Class
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Model you own: w111
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by Jeremy » Sat 24 Jan, 2015 9:18 pm

I already have a Bosch delta sander, but I found the residual sound deadener just clogged the pad almost immediately so I've been using a wire wheel drill attachment. It kinda smears the glue around but it never clogs and it preps the rust nicely for paint. I think for the big dent I might just place a block of wood across it and clobber it with a hammer to see if anything can be done. I will also be putting down Dynamat to replace the factory deadener so I'm excited to see if that makes any difference for road noise/heat. Not too concerned about improvements in music quality since my current set up consists of two 4" speakers crammed under the central dash grill. :laughing6:
1965 220Sb

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Mercmad
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by Mercmad » Sun 25 Jan, 2015 2:04 pm

Thats the box for the front of the seats to bolt too. To straighten it you need to unpick the welds on the front of the box, then knock the floor down,hopefully it isn't stretched.Apply pressure in the center of the contact point . then either straighten the front of the box or cut it off and weld in a piece to repair the front. You wont achieve much if you just try to hammer it down first,apart from damaging the rest of the floor.

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Jeremy
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by Jeremy » Wed 28 Jan, 2015 2:49 pm

Unfortunately when I got to the passenger foot well I found some proper rust.
2015-01-28 11.54.48.jpg
2015-01-28 11.55.14.jpg
2015-01-28 11.57.39.jpg
I had poked around there with a screwdriver when I first got the car but I guess I didn't poke hard enough. The factory undercoating was definitely doing its usual trick of hiding the severity of the problem. Its like that on both sides as well. I guess I am going to need to get a welder and start learning how to fabricate sheet metal. No way I can afford to get that professionally done.

The hole on the side of the footwell has actually gone through to the cavity where the jacking point sits so I'll need to cut that open and inspect the extent of the corrosion.
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1965 220Sb

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Jeremy
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by Jeremy » Tue 03 Feb, 2015 12:36 pm

OK so I've cut out the majority of the rust but in the process I've discovered that there really wasn't much left holding the jacking point in place. I cut the bottom of the box section all the way back past the jacking point and now I'm not sure if I should cut out the tube as well and fabricate a new one to replace it. Is it ok here to just treat the rust and reinforce the tube with some angle bracket?
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1965 220Sb

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Mercmad
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by Mercmad » Tue 03 Feb, 2015 1:10 pm

you should replace the jack point with new one. Mercedes have been selling them for about 50 years because they always rust away. They also published a
'how to' to repair them.

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Jeremy
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by Jeremy » Tue 03 Feb, 2015 6:27 pm

Thanks again for the advice Mercmad. Ordered a pair of replacement jack points and got to work removing the old ones.
2015-02-03 17.21.12.jpg
Boy was that fun.

Not as fun as that 220SE you've got at the moment though by the looks of it, at least mine were still there :whistle:
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1965 220Sb

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Mercmad
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Re: Rust Hunting

Post by Mercmad » Tue 03 Feb, 2015 6:35 pm

Not as much fun as jacking up a merc and the car stays put....... but the sills fold up into the car :laughing6: :laughing6:

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