Rotisserie Resto 220SB

1961-1968: a.k.a "Finnie" or "Heckflosse" models
190, 190D, 200, 200D, 220b, 220Sb, 220SEb, 230, 230S, 250SE coupe, 280SE coupe, 280SE 3.5 coupe, 220SEb cabrio., 250SE conv., 280SE cabrio., 280SE 3.5 Cabrio., 300SE, 300SE coupe, 300SE conv., 300SEL
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harryskater_220
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Fri 09 Aug, 2013 1:52 pm

That's a relief. I'm glad I don't have a power steering box then!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sat 10 Aug, 2013 11:44 am

A bit of a progress update:

Image

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Sat 10 Aug, 2013 12:32 pm

beautiful work Harry!!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sat 17 Aug, 2013 6:03 pm

Image

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sun 18 Aug, 2013 4:19 pm

Does anyone know of a re sealing kit for my steering gear box?
I have one I bought a long time back from autohaus az but the only two oil seals that i needed are way off fitting, I won't even need this kit so if anybody has a use for it, it's yours for cheap. I can put up pictures. Was advertised as a 220s steering box kit for a 62 but its not. :angry5:

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Bartman4800 » Mon 19 Aug, 2013 10:30 am

Harry,

I would image that most of the seals are off the shelf at your local bearing and seal supplier (Statewide Bearings/CBC/SKF/etc..)

Regards, Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by ToddK » Mon 19 Aug, 2013 1:15 pm

If you can't find them locally, try the forum sponsor. I bought a power steering box seal kit from them, fitted fine.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Mon 26 Aug, 2013 7:42 pm

Image

[url=qhttp://s126.photobucket.com/user/harryskater/media/Snapbucket/CF28960D_zps3263e5f7.jpg.html]Image[/url]

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by drew56cus » Tue 27 Aug, 2013 3:21 am

What are you doing all teh folding and bending on Harry?
Looks nice! Well done.
Drew
'65 220SE 4.5 Frankenbenz finnie :)
'65 220SE/C (#1 project - Tenorite grey)
'64 300SE/C (#2 project)
'66 250SE/C (#3 project)

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Tue 27 Aug, 2013 5:38 pm

Thanks Drew, yeah it looks awesome! Ollys got a sheet metal bending machine here in the shop. He's really impressed me with his work and I hope I can keep the high standard of work up for the rest of the project!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sun 27 Oct, 2013 6:52 pm

Been pretty busy lately with other things but made some progress with the steering box:

Image

Image
Last edited by harryskater_220 on Mon 28 Oct, 2013 5:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sun 27 Oct, 2013 7:03 pm

And a bit more welding progress, lower seatbelt brackets made up and in place. Thanks to Drew for the great idea of hiding the inertia reels away in the sills, it's going to look great, just trying to get my hands on a bench seat next to suit the style of seatbelts I went for with the floppy sockets- so that they don't lie on the floor, and because I really want the bench seat up front!

Image

Image

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Mon 28 Oct, 2013 8:08 am

Again! stunning work!!. I am working in a high end (read " seriously expensive " ) resto shop for a while and I'll admit that their standard doesn't approach yours...sadly. I drove a 220SE around a couple of weeks ago that only has 71,000 on the clock and it was smooth,quiet and powerful .You have a lot of driving pleasure to look forward too. :king:

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Mon 28 Oct, 2013 7:02 pm

Hey thanks Ron, I'd love to make a career change from electrical work to restoring old cars myself one day. If that does happen I hope I will never lose the love for it once it became my job. I really enjoy taking the time to make sure it's done properly. I can't see any sense in rushing anything if it doesn't have to be!

Here's the (almost) finished steering box after the labour days efforts minus gasket and setting end float and setting pressure block up and some fresh oil.

Image

Any ideas for checking the new oil seals are tight before filling up with fresh oil?

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Bartman4800 » Mon 28 Oct, 2013 7:55 pm

Hi Harry,

You could use a little bit of air pressure (couple of psi) and some soapy water to see leaks.
But if the shafts are not scored and you used new seals you should be fine.

Like Ron said you are doing a great job and it is a real inspiration for me. You make us proud to have you among us. :love10:
I noticed you have a lot of naked steel (you had it blasted?), how do you keep it rust free while finishing?
I also noticed that you are using (what I think is) weld thru primer, which brand are you using?


Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Sat 02 Nov, 2013 8:22 am

The cars at work are blasted by a real expert who knows how to remove the dirt witout destroying the cars panels, but when they come back to the shop all are washed down with liberal amonts of phosphoric acid based rust convertor. It's the only way to stop flash rust from beginning.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sat 02 Nov, 2013 2:29 pm

Bartman4800 wrote:Hi Harry,

You could use a little bit of air pressure (couple of psi) and some soapy water to see leaks.
But if the shafts are not scored and you used new seals you should be fine.

Like Ron said you are doing a great job and it is a real inspiration for me. You make us proud to have you among us. :love10:
I noticed you have a lot of naked steel (you had it blasted?), how do you keep it rust free while finishing?
I also noticed that you are using (what I think is) weld thru primer, which brand are you using?


Bart
Thanks Bart and Ron, I appreciate the compliments! So I had it blasted with a glass bead and garnett combo, and it has been kind to all my panels. I had everything flashed over with a 2 pack primer straight after blasting to keep moisture preventing rusting. This is just a flash of primer so welding isn't a problem and it's doing a great job of stopping the orange stuff, although there are one or two areas il blast again before painting (where the primer hasn't gone on as consistently)
The weld through stuff were using is a copper spray paint, il find out exactly what it is for you!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sat 02 Nov, 2013 2:33 pm

Before blasting, I went over EVERYTHING with my trusty 1" scraper and scraped off all the gunk and crap and after that I went to town with a roll of scotch brite and a hell of a lot of thinners :color:
This meant that there was minimal blasting needed to get off the old paint etc to bring it back to bare steel! Which saved me coin and warpy panels!
Last edited by harryskater_220 on Sat 02 Nov, 2013 2:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sat 02 Nov, 2013 2:42 pm

A question for you, Ron! I'm just looking over my workshop manual for reassembly of the steering box and setting it all up properly. It says to pack the bore in the steering shaft with grease before sliding the steering shaft back into place? I have no idea what they mean by the bore IN the steering shaft. The shaft on this particular unit does not have a bore which could be packed with grease that I can see! Any clues?
Also I've been at my gear box with the steam cleaner this morning and looks like I'm going to need replacement rubber bushes or discs where the gear selector arms join to the gearbox, has anyone replaced these recently? I can't find replacements on my usual websites.. They have two slightly different codes stamped on them - 44 365A 4-42 and 44 365a 4-30

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sat 02 Nov, 2013 2:53 pm

Image

cleaning up my gearbox and the donor one

Image

SHINY :sunny:

Any tips on what to do with this while it's on the bench?

I'm gonna replace the Flexi disc where the prop shaft goes and maybe the rubber discs for the selector linkage if I can find replacements, otherwise the ones on the donor are in better nick!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Bartman4800 » Mon 04 Nov, 2013 1:29 pm

Harry,

I have seen these on fleabay (try ebay.de the German version), and otherwise Murray at our sponsor headquarters should be able to help you.

I think I got mine from dbdepot.de



Regards, Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Mon 04 Nov, 2013 7:32 pm

older Mercs of the 50's had a hollow shaft , but the finnys dont so I am not sure which part thery want to put grease into.. :laughing6:,For the trans,get a gearbox seal kit,and replace all the gaskets. They use Auto trans fluid,not gear oil so any gaskets which are getting old will leak. Replace the thrust bearing too.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Tue 05 Nov, 2013 7:16 pm

Mercmad wrote:older Mercs of the 50's had a hollow shaft , but the finnys dont so I am not sure which part thery want to put grease into.. :laughing6:,For the trans,get a gearbox seal kit,and replace all the gaskets. They use Auto trans fluid,not gear oil so any gaskets which are getting old will leak. Replace the thrust bearing too.
Cheers Ron! I've asked the site sponsor for some prices!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Tue 05 Nov, 2013 7:29 pm

Bartman4800 wrote:Harry,

I have seen these on fleabay (try ebay.de the German version), and otherwise Murray at our sponsor headquarters should be able to help you.

I think I got mine from dbdepot.de



Regards, Bart
Thanks, Bart! Il keep an eye on Ebay cheers.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Mon 11 Nov, 2013 12:34 pm

So I was feeling pretty keen yesterday and wanted to strip down the prop shaft and check out the intermediate bearing then ran into this slotted nut setup

Image

I came up with a plan and made a special tool to take it apart

Image

Someone had cut the rubber mount in half to get it over the flange?
So now I'm looking for intermediate bearing, lock ring, spacer rings and rubber mount if anyone has a source for these? I've just flicked an email to Murray..

Image

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Bartman4800 » Mon 11 Nov, 2013 1:40 pm

Dbdepot has the rubber for 13 euro's

http://www.dbdepot.de/index.php?nav=4&lan=2&

I would say the circlip (locking ring) and bearing are standard and can be purchased at your local CBC, statewide bearing (whatever their name is in New Zullund) :jokercolor:
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Wed 13 Nov, 2013 7:45 pm

Bartman4800 wrote:Dbdepot has the rubber for 13 euro's

http://www.dbdepot.de/index.php?nav=4&lan=2&

I would say the circlip (locking ring) and bearing are standard and can be purchased at your local CBC, statewide bearing (whatever their name is in New Zullund) :jokercolor:
Your right Bart, thank you. I was able to get a bearing and new o rings and a grease nipple off the shelf from a local tractor shop.
I will re-use the locking ring so just need the rubber mount now!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Tue 19 Nov, 2013 5:46 pm

Bartman4800 wrote:Hi Harry,

You could use a little bit of air pressure (couple of psi) and some soapy water to see leaks.
But if the shafts are not scored and you used new seals you should be fine.

Like Ron said you are doing a great job and it is a real inspiration for me. You make us proud to have you among us. :love10:
I noticed you have a lot of naked steel (you had it blasted?), how do you keep it rust free while finishing?
I also noticed that you are using (what I think is) weld thru primer, which brand are you using?


Bart
Hey Bart, here's that weld through copper spray were using on all the welding work: it's made by UPOL if you can't make it out on the picture

Image

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Tue 19 Nov, 2013 5:56 pm

Last weekends efforts with the gearbox and prop shaft strip down and another list of parts to order :wall:

Image

Image

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Tue 19 Nov, 2013 6:02 pm

Does anybody know if I'd be safe to take of the rear cover on the gearbox? The manual I'm working from mentions using a special tool to clamp all the gears together to stop them from dislodging or whatever. All I wanna achieve is to take off the cover and replace the seal and gasket. All the bearings seem sweet... So I don't think there's any reason to disturb the main shaft doing this?

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Bartman4800 » Tue 19 Nov, 2013 7:52 pm

Thanks Harry, I have seen the U-pol before and read good things about it.

Sorry I can't help you on the gearbox...I left mine together.
But I have the original Mercedes Workshop manual (in Teutonic). Can read up and scan if you want.

Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Wed 20 Nov, 2013 5:42 am

Bartman4800 wrote:Thanks Harry, I have seen the U-pol before and read good things about it.

Sorry I can't help you on the gearbox...I left mine together.
But I have the original Mercedes Workshop manual (in Teutonic). Can read up and scan if you want.

Bart
No worries Bart, it would be interesting to see if it differs from the manual I have. I'm working with the Autobooks workshop manual I've got a green one and the original is an orange hard back. Is it the same thing you have?

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Wed 20 Nov, 2013 8:21 am

Just undo the alloy peice on the back,and the gears should remain in place, you cant do any harm by pulling them out though and replacing the needle rollers . The box will be quieter if you do dwecide to do this. They are tough unit and made from pretty good stuff, Just remember that the trans uses automatic trans fluid NOT gear oil.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Bartman4800 » Wed 20 Nov, 2013 1:38 pm

harryskater_220 wrote:
Bartman4800 wrote:Thanks Harry, I have seen the U-pol before and read good things about it.

Sorry I can't help you on the gearbox...I left mine together.
But I have the original Mercedes Workshop manual (in Teutonic). Can read up and scan if you want.

Bart
No worries Bart, it would be interesting to see if it differs from the manual I have. I'm working with the Autobooks workshop manual I've got a green one and the original is an orange hard back. Is it the same thing you have?
No, mine is the grey original Mercedes Werkstatt handbook (1959 upwards). I will have a look for you.

Who sells the needle rollers Mercmad? Or are they just generic SKF/INA etc ones?
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sat 14 Dec, 2013 4:50 pm

So I'm hoping to pull my gearbox apart even further and maybe do all the bearings.
Can anyone tell me what to look out for while pulling apart? I guess my main concern is having parts fly apart all over the garage. Is there another idea of locking the first and second speed gear wheels to the synchromesh unit? The book describes a retaining fixture to be used to prevent this from happening when the main shaft is moved. And is there a detailed drawing of all the internal gear parts so I know what I'm up to? I have a drawing in my book but unfortunately it is not labelled!
And anything to inspect, I've noticed some wear on some of the gears on the main shaft but not being a pro at this I don't know if it's replacing time or if it's ok. I may post some pictures once I have it in bits so you guys can make suggestions!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Sun 15 Dec, 2013 8:44 am

All the parts including gear sets are available ,and the rollers should be available through your local bearing suppliers. But normally there is no need to completely strip the box unless there is very obvious wear visible. The easiest thing to do is simply replace the front seal and gasket and the rear seal and the end gasket. You need to make a socket that will undo the rear nut but that is the only special tool required. These gear boxes were used in all of mercedes products including the gullwings and are exceedingly tough. It's only when they have been driven for a long time without oil that they tend to get noisy and the synchros wear out.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Mon 16 Dec, 2013 5:42 am

Mercmad wrote:All the parts including gear sets are available ,and the rollers should be available through your local bearing suppliers. But normally there is no need to completely strip the box unless there is very obvious wear visible. The easiest thing to do is simply replace the front seal and gasket and the rear seal and the end gasket. You need to make a socket that will undo the rear nut but that is the only special tool required. These gear boxes were used in all of mercedes products including the gullwings and are exceedingly tough. It's only when they have been driven for a long time without oil that they tend to get noisy and the synchros wear out.
Hi Ron, There seems to be a lot of play on the input shaft I'm not sure if this is bearings yet or because I've got everything undone. I was thinking about just replacing them all at this stage, which would mean removing the input shaft and main shaft and the counter shaft- I could then replace the bearings and stick it all back together.
I was told even the smallest amount of wear ( not visible ) on the synchros could cause me engaging problems so I was thinking of taking it in to someone to check that out for me. Am I going about this the right way or do you think I'd be better off just replacing the gaskets and seals?

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Tue 17 Dec, 2013 1:31 pm

Get someone to check the synchros,any compenetant mechanic can tell at a glance when the blocking rings are worn out . The tiny grooves inside the cones are really important so when they are no longer visible,the snychromesh will not work.
Image

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sun 05 Jan, 2014 7:39 pm

Hey cheers for the advice Ron i will be taking the gearbox in to somebody now that everyone's heading back to work after the Christmas hols. I've also found a source for the rings Incase I'm told to replace them.
Today I've been dismantling the heater box, but I cant remove the fan from the motor shaft, can anyone shed any light on this? I removed the snap ring and the large sprung washer from the top and assuming it should pull right off now but can't get it without damaging the plastic fan.. I want to pull it apart as it's a little noisy and would like to remove the whole motor unit from the metal chassis so that I can get it prepped and painted!

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Mon 06 Jan, 2014 8:40 am

It will be rusted onto the shaft,so it might break if you are not careful. Try putting the plastic fan in hot water then having a go at pulling it off.

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Mon 06 Jan, 2014 6:28 pm

Yeah I thought that might be the case but I could see some sort of pin through the motor shaft and started to wonder. I've tried with some heat from my blow torch but no joy. Will try the hot water idea on the weekend!
I'm going to replace the rubber seals in the valves and see if I can get a plumber to throw some solder around the pipe joints too as one has sprung a leak when I tested them out with the garden hose. I've heard of people having these things re-cored. What's that all about? What's the advantages of having it done?

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Mercmad
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Tue 07 Jan, 2014 1:44 pm

No point what so ever in getting them recored,if in fact new cores are available . I have pulled heaters from some of the rustiest deadest finnys out there and the heaters are always fine. :laughing5:

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harryskater_220
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Sun 19 Jan, 2014 12:07 pm

Just busy ordering a heap of parts, does anybody know if I can use my early clutch release bearing body with the later bearing? I've got bearing number 505319C I want to replace but it seems the newer style is only available and just came across this info on the ponton site:

http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/mai ... place3.htm

The picture of the early bearing looks identical to mine but would this info be correct for finnys too?

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Mercmad
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Sun 19 Jan, 2014 3:42 pm

For the early finnys with the ponton gearbox it is. Later finnys have a 6 bolt lid on the trans and different style of throw out bearing.

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harryskater_220
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Mon 20 Jan, 2014 7:10 pm

Ron, do you reckon I can use a later style throw out bearing complete with body on my earlier trans? The 63 donor I have has the later style setup ( which is cheaper to renew) than the earlier style - around twice the price at $400!!! It seems to fit and I can't see why I wouldn't be able to use it and I suppose with it being a later design it should be more reliable?

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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Mon 20 Jan, 2014 7:41 pm

Yes,as long as it fits OK on the gearbox input snout. it should be free to slide backwards and forwards and,the diamter of the bearing face meets the clutch fingers .
it's a pretty simple device . :whistle: :laughing6:

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harryskater_220
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by harryskater_220 » Wed 22 Jan, 2014 4:07 pm

Image

Image

Image

Image

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Mercmad
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Mercmad » Wed 22 Jan, 2014 4:34 pm

Nice!, it's a pity they dont stay all nice and shiney once the engine is fired up. :laughing6:

Image

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Greg in Oz
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Greg in Oz » Wed 22 Jan, 2014 10:32 pm

Mercmad wrote:Nice!, it's a pity they dont stay all nice and shiney once the engine is fired up. :laughing6:

Image
Well that's what happens Ron when you try to use 2 stroke Victa lawnmower pistons in your Finny! :joker: :laughing6:
107026 - 500SLC: 1981, 4sp auto, thistle green, green velour
124052 - E320 Coupe: 1993, 5sp auto, azurite blue, cream-beige leather
124090 - 300TE: 1990, 4sp auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex
124090 - 300TE: 1992, 4sp auto, malachite (spruce green), black MBtex
201024 - 190E-2.0: 1985, 5sp manual, black, black MBtex
201028 - 190E-2.3 Sportline: 1990, 5sp manual, arctic white, blue leather
201028 - 190E-2.3: 1992, 4sp auto, blueblack, grey MBtex
201028 - 190E-2.3 Sportline: 1990, 4sp auto, signal red, black cloth (parts car)
201034 - 190E-2.3-16 Cosworth: 1985, 5sp manual, blueblack, black leather
YG2S8 - Mini Clubman GT: 1972, 4sp manual, blue, parchment vinyl (my first car which I still own)

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Bartman4800
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Re: Rotisserie Resto 220SB

Post by Bartman4800 » Fri 24 Jan, 2014 1:07 pm

So, what is the plan with the engine Harry?

A re-bore to 2nd oversize or just a hone?
What about the cylinder head? Any work on that?


Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)

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