OE quality...

190E 2.3-16, 190E 2.5-16, 190E Evolution 1 & 2 models
16v specific information.
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OE quality...

Post by AMG » Thu 20 Oct, 2016 4:18 pm

Well I have to say, I've busted uni joints, propshafts have been twisted in half, destroyed gearboxes and blown engines sky high in the past, but this one really caught me out.

Was coming home along Sandringham st (SansSouci) the other day and got caught behind some dumb f- in a camry who decided to turn right but didn't indicate.

A few tailgaters behind me, and I heard some bangs and broken stuff, and camry guy put indicator on as he gets halfway through the corner...

Without casting any dispersions as to the ethnicity of the driver, I can say complete moron behind the wheel.

Slightly pissed off I gave Hermann a few Krpm on the throttle and let the clutch out and *BANG* wtf.

In the middle of the bloody intersection no less - and I have no drive no momentum and no gears. Oh FFS.

Somehow there was enough forward movement from my initial input, to allow me to make an emergency left turn into a side street, where I was able to stop and figure out wtf just happened.

Now, I didn't dump the clutch, nor did I hold it at WOT or bounce it off the limiter - we're talking a 3krpm takeoff with a quick disengagement. Car has never complained before about it so my first thought was I'd broken a clutch disc or pressure plate or input shaft gear...

After a few minutes poking around and unable to see a damn thing, I was getting fried in the sun. I rang for a tow and waited.

and waited.

well you probably know how that one goes - 2 hrs later and a flatbed turns up and off home we go. Get the car back into the garage and leave it for the weekend.

Because I couldnt see any movement in the propshaft my fears were the worst kind..... and where I was going to get another dogleg 5 speed was really starting to do my head in.

I eventually decided to get Hermann back up on stands - god knows he's spent a lot of his life parked in the garage this way over the years....

Started the car and all it wants to do now is stall. I cant engage the clutch, I cant grab a gear.... it's looking really really bad.... and then the battery flattens after god knows how many starts. AT least the starter hasn't died..... yet.

Back to the problem... So the battery is charged overnight and I give things another crack.... this time it starts and holds an idle.... and there is a horrible noise coming from the middle of the car.

Get underneath and look, and no propshaft movement. so I get back in the car and let it warm up with my foot on the clutch.... and the noise disappears--- sort of.

I'm starting to think there is a clutch problem.... then I let it out and after several bunnyhop jolts in the transmission the gearbox can be heard and so can something else...

getting back underneath and I can now see a moving propshaft... whew. I try all the gears.... and we're OK.... for the moment at least.

Then I notice only one back wheel spinning.. I grab the RHS rear wheel and it free-spins. and then I thought oh f-this.

I stop the car, remove the wheel and then look around... everything looks perfectly fine. I thought I'd stripped the splines off the hub flange.

Start the car, put in 5th and let it idle, grab the other wheel and then hear a nasty clunk and the car stalls.

back to the other side..... start the car again, stick head in RHR wheelarch and voila.... driveshaft is not moving at all.

Leave for another couple of days because I'm busy with my actual job - and revisit after work. removing the wheel carrier is a real PITA on a 201. in hindsight I should have dropped the subframe.

anyway... I was greeted by this:
How lovely. Snapped the CV stub.

So in the process of attempting to remove the carrier, the bottom bearing boots which are evidently perished but were in tact are now trashed.
No problem, because I have a couple of spares and they would have been replaced anyway...

But the worse news was yet to avail itself. The rear bearing has some axial play now.... so the damage is not simply contained to the driveshaft.

Because the car has an ASD differential, the driveshafts are next to impossible to find s/h. I was hoping to find a set and reco them off the car. Sadly not to be.

Then I realized I may have a solution in my 24v rear subframe spare.... I *may* be able to remove an outboard CV from the driveshaft and replace it onto the 16v...

In any case, It looks like I now have my hands full again with yet another 16v repair... so the whole subframe is coming out. I'm unsure as to what I will do regarding the other components I have waiting here (I had an overhaul planned for xmas hols, looks like it's coming sooner than anticipated) but if I have to obtain a pair of ASD driveshafts, I'm going to be screwed. According to insider information MBUSA classic centre, the superceded part exists only for 201036 and price is well... let's just say there is a price penalty for owning the 16v.
BTW, if you own an ASD equipped 16v or 2.6, you might want to look for some alternative parts sources from R129/W124 cars, because you could probably buy a whole rear subframe from one for less than the cost of one driveshaft.... and then you'd have a spare diff and wheel carriers plus drive hubs/flanges.

Stay tuned on that. I'm hoping that a successful donor can be found in the w124 cv stub.

Back to the picture though. You can see that the stub with the splines had been tortured. I'm surprised it didn't friction weld itself back together... There appears to be evidence of a stress fracture, but it is too hard to tell. the CV is still packed with grease, but I am really wondering why the stub was gun-drilled so far into the shaft, which means that the removal of the material in that critical area contributes to the weakness of the stub. Perhaps it is the 'fuse' in the drivetrain.

Either way - I think it's a pretty raw deal. breaking driveshafts on a 16v should never happen. ever. V8 driveshafts are the same size.... so WTF were they thinking?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
1987 560SL 4sp. auto Signalrot "Stella"
1987 190E 2.3-16 5sp. man. Blauschwarz "Hermann"
1992 300CE-24 6sp. man. Perlblau / Iceblau "Gretel"
1992 Range Rover Classic 4sp auto Ardennes Green "Oswald"
2012 E63 AMG Speedshift MCT Diamantweiß "Klaus"
1986 560SEL Anthracitgrau "Schultz" - In Mercedes Heaven
1987 190E 2.6 4sp. auto Signalrot "Sabine" - which now resides/owns Andrew M's Garage
1972 350SLC Astralsilber "Lurch" - now in the loving care of Craig B
1989 2.5-16 Blauschwarz 4sp. auto (parted) formerly owned by Derek/Hasan.
2012 Renault Sport Megane RS265 Trophy 8:08 6 sp. man. Liquid Yellow "Jean Rédélé"

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Re: OE quality...

Post by TheMadRacoon » Thu 20 Oct, 2016 5:43 pm

Sad to hear. Can imagine how you feel. I had to replace drive shafts on a humble 2l 190E some 10 yrs ago - I wasn't told the price of new ones and I didn't care to know given s/h ones were $800 each.

I think its down to 1980s thinking (really 1970s since that's when the designs were done, in the shadow of two oil crises) - to save fuel, save weight: to save weight, use advanced techniques for stress analysis.... and you end up with designs that have less material and those materials are, by definition, more highly stressed. There's just less 'safety factor' applied because the advanced techniques give you a better picture of the stresses.

Agree, can't imagine the same thing happening in a 107.

Good luck with the 124 parts. Will be watching with interest.

On a lighter note: Series 1 Land Rovers were fond of snapping drive shafts, which were probably easier to change. Just as well because you were likely to be somewhere a tow truck couldn't get to!
1975 350SLC Astral Silver (725) / Blue (2012, 284,900 km - present.... a real Benz, getting better and better)
1988 190E Deep Blue (900) / Cream (2006, 190,000 km - 2007, ~ 215,000 km .... FSH and still spent big $$$)
1974 280E Reed Green (860) / Bone (1993, 316,700 km - 2004, ~490,000 km and still A1)

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