OZBENZ

Hey folks, I'm Dan and this is my First post after being a member for a few years. Been looking for a W114 280e for a long time and finally found a good match.

She is in pretty good shape, floors are clean, paint is pretty decent overall. It's been sitting for a long time and I need to do a few things before I put her back on the road. I'm not new to cars but this is my first Mercedes so I'll need your collective help to get me up to speed.

Here is a photo of her the day I bought it:

One of my favourites. Had mine almost 10 years. At almost 500,000 km she felt she could do it all over again. And ohhhh so reliable!

Hi Dan,
welcome here, your car looks great! Good luck with restoring it and I do hope, no "dramas" come up. Maybe post some more photos ... do you have factory aircon in it? If yes, I'd be interested in a centre console pic ...

Regards
Thomas

Ok, so I'm just a tad envious given I've just posted that I'm on the hunt for something similar.

However, she looks lovely. Looking forward to seeing more photos and details of what you need to do to get her going properly.

Thanks for the comments!

I notice MB spares is currently not selling parts. Is there other good Aussie suppliers for parts? I've found Pelican parts, Niemoller.de and of course ebay.

Current issues:
She is running a little rough but I won't worry about that too much until I can run the old fuel out of it.

Brakes are hard. Some research found the Mercedes source website and indicates to check the rubber seal between the master and the booster. I separated the master cyl (without disconnecting the brake lines) and found there is no O ring there. (It's a 40mm one if anyone else is going to try) I couldn't get the booster out far enough so I'll have to wait until I can disconnect the brake lines. Anyone else encounter this? Hopefully the booster isn't dead!

I have a fuel line that is weeping. The one on the cold start injector. Anyone know what size that rubber braided hose is?



It does have the air con that I assume is factory but doesn't have the bulged out console like some do.


I'm also after an original AC condensor and electric fan. This aftermarket core has been installed and is mounted pretty horribly.

Usually a hard brake is a sign you don't have any booster action.

A quick check whether a diaphragm is ruptured: after the engine ran, pull the hose out of the booster.
You should hear a hissing noise of the air rushing in. Reinstall the vacuum hose

When you put your foot on the brake pedal, and you start your engine, your pedal should sink a little.

Yes there should be a seal between the booster and the master cylinder, or you loose vacuum.

Bart

Bartman4800 wrote: ↑Tue 10 Jul, 2018 6:42 pm Usually a hard brake is a sign you don't have any booster action.

A quick check whether a diaphragm is ruptured: after the engine ran, pull the hose out of the booster.
You should hear a hissing noise of the air rushing in. Reinstall the vacuum hose

When you put your foot on the brake pedal, and you start your engine, your pedal should sink a little.

Yes there should be a seal between the booster and the master cylinder, or you loose vacuum.

Bart

It does sink a little when I hold the brakes and start her up. I'm reluctant to pull the hose off just yet, I'm worried about tearing that clear plastic hose.
I guess I'll try the simplest thing first and install a seal and see where I end up.

Anyone ever had one rebuilt?

the booster hose has a one-way checkvalve in it which can fail. undo the nuts on both ends (booster end and manifold) and blow through it to check both directions. obviously the flow needs to be one-way only.

you can replace the check valve with a new one 0004313507 use hot water on the plastic hose to soften it and simply pull it off.

occasionally you need a hot air gun with a bit more heat (be very careful)

Don't discount the possibility that the flexible lines to the brake calipers are original and swelled up internal, constricting it.
Check for the internal condition is to flush the brake fluid and see how easily the fluid squirts out on depressing the brake pedal.

Chai wrote: ↑Tue 10 Jul, 2018 9:50 pm Don't discount the possibility that the flexible lines to the brake calipers are original and swelled up internal, constricting it.
Check for the internal condition is to flush the brake fluid and see how easily the fluid squirts out on depressing the brake pedal.

Yes definitely a possibility. I'm just going through this now with my 1969 Morris Mini Matic which has been sitting for 20 years. One of the rear hoses was completely blocked.

AMG wrote: ↑Tue 10 Jul, 2018 9:22 pm the booster hose has a one-way checkvalve in it which can fail. undo the nuts on both ends (booster end and manifold) and blow through it to check both directions. obviously the flow needs to be one-way only.

you can replace the check valve with a new one 0004313507 use hot water on the plastic hose to soften it and simply pull it off.

occasionally you need a hot air gun with a bit more heat (be very careful)

The check valve isn't something I had considered. Thanks for the tip about the hot water on the hose. Once I'm finished on the mini's brakes, I'll try these things and report back.

Hey folks, been a while since I've made an update.

Car has been apart for a while, I've been doing the injectors and replacing a lot of the external hoses and gaskets on the motor. I've done the fuel strainer in the tank.
I couldn't find a replacement high pressure hose off the steering pump so I had enzed remake it for me.
It's almost back together, just waiting on a few more things:

I want to get the radiator serviced before it goes back in. I haven't seen new/aftermarket ones available anywhere so I'll be taking mine for a local shop to look at.

I'm having some trouble with one of the relays. When I turn the key on and then off, the ignition stays on.
If I pull out one of the relays on the upper part of the passenger footwell, it returns to normal. There are 3 relays and the one on the right is the strange one. The middle one is the Fuel pump relay and it seems to be working fine. If I swap the relays, it still behaves the same so I'd say that rules out the relay. If you start the engine, it will not turn off. Without the relay, it all works fine.
This issue was not present before I took things apart. I've had the alternator of and rebuilt, injectors out, the power steer pump off, main pulley, water pump etc. I had left an earth off that mounts to the throttle linkage on the manifold but once returned, it remained the same.

I also need 2 of the spark plug wire holders, the ones with the gap in the middle. 1101590640 If anyone has a one or two new or used, let me know

Well done, sounds like your getting close.

I don't have any wiring diagrams to help out with the relay - that all sounds a bit odd to me.

the old radiators can still be good - even if they open tanks and rod the tubes - possibly better than a modern replacement.

Hi Dan,
regarding the holder for the spark cables: Here's some in the Netherlands; why don't you contact the guy and see, if they ship to Oz. I bought a metal part for my W115 with him and there were no probs:

https://mercedes-classic-parts.com/prod ... s/?lang=de

If he doesn't deliver to Oz and you have no opportunity to get it, I might get it for you and ship it over to you (but you have to take the risk of shipping, in case it's lost).

Regards
Thomas

P. S.: There's one even a bit cheaper: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Z ... Swby1ea23x

T-Modell wrote: ↑Tue 14 Apr, 2020 10:39 pm Hi Dan,
regarding the holder for the spark cables: Here's some in the Netherlands; why don't you contact the guy and see, if they ship to Oz. I bought a metal part for my W115 with him and there were no probs:

https://mercedes-classic-parts.com/prod ... s/?lang=de

If he doesn't deliver to Oz and you have no opportunity to get it, I might get it for you and ship it over to you (but you have to take the risk of shipping, in case it's lost).

Regards
Thomas

P. S.: There's one even a bit cheaper: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Z ... Swby1ea23x

Thanks Thomas, I appreciate your offer. They are the only seller I have found that has some listed as being in stock
Their website won't work out postage but I have contacted them this morning to see if they can send them to me.

CraigB wrote: ↑Tue 14 Apr, 2020 9:04 pm Well done, sounds like your getting close.

I don't have any wiring diagrams to help out with the relay - that all sounds a bit odd to me.

the old radiators can still be good - even if they open tanks and rod the tubes - possibly better than a modern replacement.

This electrical problem has only happened since the car has gone back together so no doubt it's a wire or an earth that I've knocked off. I will find out what that relay is and that should help diagnose.

I agree, with the shroud and the clutch fan, it would be hard to beat. I'm hoping they can do something with it. Not many people around me that actually do proper radiator repairs.

I reckon Joe B knows a good radiator guy in Sydney, if he sees this or pm him (AMG). I think it is good to use these people and support their businesses if you can.... give them a reason to stay in business and still have those skills there when we need them.

Well done Dan, looks like a great example of a classic.