Touching Up Stone Chips?

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Roscoe
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Location: Queensland, slightly NorthEast of the centre of the known universe. :)

Touching Up Stone Chips?

Post by Roscoe » Tue 15 Sep, 2009 3:07 pm

Is there a good reliable method of touching up stone chips? I am thinking of something like filling the chip with (colour-matched) paint and then sanding it back to match the surrounding surface (600 grit or finer) and blending it in with compound. Would that actually work or am I being fanciful?
Roscoe
1994 E280 Sportline Polar White, Anthracite (black) leather interior (Thanks John!)

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danny6479
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Re: Touching Up Stone Chips?

Post by danny6479 » Fri 16 Oct, 2009 6:23 pm

best thing to do yeh, but use 1000grit wet n dry as t 600 will be to harsh and cause u more work, then when ur happy with it medium abrasive cutting compound n a polish

Roscoe
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Joined: Mon 20 Nov, 2006 12:23 pm
Model you own: w124
Location: Queensland, slightly NorthEast of the centre of the known universe. :)

Re: Touching Up Stone Chips?

Post by Roscoe » Fri 16 Oct, 2009 6:55 pm

Thanks Danny. I also have a couple of big chips where the paint looks to have corrosion under it (they are probably really old chips) - anything I can do with these or are they really car painter territory?
Roscoe
1994 E280 Sportline Polar White, Anthracite (black) leather interior (Thanks John!)

MBCQ Former Member #1609

danny6479
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Location: baldivis, perth, wa

Re: Touching Up Stone Chips?

Post by danny6479 » Mon 26 Oct, 2009 12:37 am

hi roscoe

you want to mask off off around the rust bubbles prob about 50mm (this is to keep the repair as small as possible) either side, use a grinder with plastic backing pad and flat sanding discs or a drill with flap wheel of about 40-80 grit to take back the paint that has bubbled and rust underneath, then u can start sanding by hand starting with maybe 120grit paper working through grades untill u get to 600grit. get a rust converter and follow instructions. you may need to use a little bog if the metal is pitted/or to build back out where u have sanded back. same steps going through sandpaper for the filler, if u dont want to use filler u can build it back out with a filler primer, the trick is to take ur time, once ur happy with the repair before painting wet flat the repair off with 600 then 800 then 1000, check again make sure ur still happy (all scratches gone, nice and level)if not bit more primer n flat off when dry. then paint, i would try n find somewhere that will mix u spraycan so u know t colour will b spot on, u can get a great finish from a good quality can and some 1 who knows how 2 mix em, if u paint the spots on ur car and it feels like 1000grit sandpaper or looks orange peel, not 2 worry give it a few days then get a bucket ov soapy water 1200-1500 wet/dry paper go ova the area then rubbing compound n polish to bring the shine back.

have fun

dan

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Re: Touching Up Stone Chips?

Post by W108-1967 250S » Sat 13 Nov, 2010 12:53 am

I had an Austin Healy Frogeye many moons ago, and I remember using this method. I would touch up a stone chip over a few days, till the paint was above surrounding surface. Cut back level with water paper then a final polish with Brasso metal polish. Worked a TREAT. Wouldn't try it on clear coats however.

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Dr Know
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Re: Touching Up Stone Chips?

Post by Dr Know » Wed 02 Mar, 2011 11:48 pm

Roscoe wrote:Is there a good reliable method of touching up stone chips? I am thinking of something like filling the chip with (colour-matched) paint and then sanding it back to match the surrounding surface (600 grit or finer) and blending it in with compound. Would that actually work or am I being fanciful?
Fanciful..? No way! I wish there were more people who would do this for a living. Pannel beaters these days (or pannel replacers as they should be called) can't be bothered, they just want to repaint pannels which is easy and charge a fortune. I now use touch up guys that MB dealers use for their late model trade ins.

Anyway in the past I have masked the area, used spray putty, then gently sanded (with tape on), then removed and gently sanded, smoothed with a compound then sprayed. This works better for scratches, chips are harder, but you can still prep the surface with tape and spray with paint multiple times to build up layers, then sand down and polish into the background. Somtimes it worked well and sometimes it didnt work well. Takes time, hard work and patients and hopfully there aren't to many to do! If its rusting my advice is strip and respray the pannel. You can hire a compressor and just google 'respraying car pannels' for step by step instructions, as you need to prep the surface and use clear coats too.
Is there life after 300E...?!

Current cars:
1983 300D Ivory White,Coffee MB-Tex, 171,598kms (Pure classic)
1988 300E Metallic Silver,Burgundy Leather,156,208kms (Legendary...)

Considering:
1980 450SEL 6.9 Black,Scarlet Leather OR Silver,Scarlet Leather
1991-1992 500SL Silver,Blue Leather OR Red,Tan Leather
1988 300CE Silver,Scarlet Leather OR Midnight Blue,Grey Leather
E63 AMG Black,Scarlet Leather
1990 300D White- for retirement so they can see me!


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