Inlet Manifold removed

1971-1989: 280SL, 280SLC, 300SL, 350SL, 350SLC, 380SL, 380SLC, 420SL, 450SL, 450SLC, 450SLC 5.0, 500SL, 500SLC, 560SL
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old timer
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Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Mon 10 Jun, 2019 9:15 am

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Mon 10 Jun, 2019 9:30 am

Hi All trying to figure out how to attach pic's, messed up somewhere.
Removed manifold and injectors which seem worst for ware and will probably need replacing. Will try cleaning and testing 1st. Part No on injectors 0260 150 134. Inlet ports and inlet manifold heavily carboned up. Will get manifold chemically cleaned and thinking of cleaning ports by stuffing a rag down port and clean while running a vacuum cleaner. Removed valve covers and timing chain appeared to be ok with minimal slack. Possibly has been replaced at some stage. Next step will be compression test and hoping for around 140 PSI. I assume it will be ok to do with manifold off.
I have a Haynes manual which is of very little help, is there anything out there that's a bit more descriptive?
Where can I buy gaskets and hoses etc.
DSC02785.JPG
Cheers Laurie
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by Aegean » Mon 10 Jun, 2019 9:09 pm

Here are some choices for injectors

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mer ... ector,6224

These are for a 450SLC. Is yours a 350 or 450 ?

Craig
W136 170s W186 300b W180 220s W109 6.3 C107 450 W116 6.9 W124 E320 Cab CLK 430
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Tue 11 Jun, 2019 5:13 am

Hi Craig. It's a 350

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by Aegean » Tue 11 Jun, 2019 10:20 am

You might need to look up 350SL on their website as I don't think it has a 350SLC D-jet.
W136 170s W186 300b W180 220s W109 6.3 C107 450 W116 6.9 W124 E320 Cab CLK 430
'72 Ranchero GT, Subaru SVX x 4, Subaru Vortex, DKW F89P, DKW 3=6, Skoda Octavia Super, Skoda Felicia Cabrio,
and the odd Porsche, Holden, Tatra, Buick............

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by John Green » Tue 11 Jun, 2019 1:02 pm

old timer wrote:
Mon 10 Jun, 2019 9:30 am
Hi Removed manifold and injectors which seem worst for ware and will probably need replacing. Will try cleaning and testing 1st. Part No on injectors 0260 150 134. I
Cheers Laurie
It is rare for one of them to not respond well to ultrasonic cleaning, all you need then is some new hoses. When removing the old ones avoid the temptation to use a knife as you don't want to damage the barb.
M.B Spares & Service 14-16 Lyell St, Fyshwick ACT. Ph 02 6239 1099

http://mbspares.com.au - Supporting Australia's Mercedes-Benz Enthusiasts.

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Tue 11 Jun, 2019 2:52 pm

That all sounds good and car looks great. Yes in the US they were all 450 apart from the earlier ones like W111 3.5 and I think your right with maybe 72 350sl. With all their pollution gear they went to 4.5 engines but still 3.5 when first released. Might also be 300SEL with 3.5 engine - just going by what i used to get the right bits for my 108 3.5 when shopping on Autohaus. But I would go with JG recommendation to clean and try first. Gaskets etc just google on internet but also some possibility some times that genuine may not be that much, especially considering postage from OS sites.

I can picture the Gizmo's now but not sure still. It looks like a solenoid that opens and closes vacuum. I would follow the vac lines and see where they go and this should tell you what they do. Easy to test if you use a vacuum tester/ mityvac and then put voltage to it.
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Tue 11 Jun, 2019 2:55 pm

And at least one person will cringe when i say this, but their are some very good sealants out there that could possibly replace a gasket. I say that from 'vintage car' experience, where you get nervous if they don't leak oil because that usually means it has run out! I am a fan of the 'Three Bond' range of sealants. Just be aware if a gasket is part of a certain amount of clearance etc
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Wed 12 Jun, 2019 1:37 am

John Green wrote:
Tue 11 Jun, 2019 1:02 pm
old timer wrote:
Mon 10 Jun, 2019 9:30 am
Hi Removed manifold and injectors which seem worst for ware and will probably need replacing. Will try cleaning and testing 1st. Part No on injectors 0260 150 134. I
Cheers Laurie
It is rare for one of them to not respond well to ultrasonic cleaning, all you need then is some new hoses. When removing the old ones avoid the temptation to use a knife as you don't want to damage the barb.
Hi John, thank you for responding. Yes I do intend to try cleaning them 1st. Do I need to replace the plastic jackets that the injectors sit in, what about the seals?

Also do you any manuals specifically relating to what I am currently doing. Cheers and thanks again

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Wed 12 Jun, 2019 1:55 am

CraigB wrote:
Tue 11 Jun, 2019 2:55 pm
And at least one person will cringe when i say this, but their are some very good sealants out there that could possibly replace a gasket. I say that from 'vintage car' experience, where you get nervous if they don't leak oil because that usually means it has run out! I am a fan of the 'Three Bond' range of sealants. Just be aware if a gasket is part of a certain amount of clearance etc
Hi Craig. I will probably make my own gaskets where possible and try to source inlet manifold gaskets on line. What do think of my method of cleaning the inlet ports?

The Gizmo"s are definatley some sort of vacuum mechanism as there is a line coming from underneath the rear of the inlet manifold from the banjo fitting. I also noticed a vacuum line attachment to the underside of the drivers seat. Is it a height adjuster?
Cheers for now. Laurie

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Wed 12 Jun, 2019 9:19 am

I think that sounds ok with inlet ports. If some grit gets through there is so much sucking and puffing going in the bore area that it will get blown out. It reminded me of a thread recently where 'AMG' said about Subaru using a product called Three Bond engine conditioner (no I don't get kick backs for every time i mention that company - but google them - interesting company history) for cleaning inlet tract.... have a read and see if you think relevant - but I reckon no harm getting out what you can. https://ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php?f=13&t ... ru#p184780

Thinking out loud here (and join in anyone else) - why do cars get all carboned up like that? Could be mixture related but I think there is a good chance your valve stem seals are shot, possibly valve guides. I'm not sure what i would do in your position. With more time on your hands than dollars, if that's the case, I would still start with compression test, leak down test if possible (google that if not sure) - and try and get a feel for if heads have to come off anyway. Every chance it will check out fine and still possibly worn guides. Still, you can use compressed air through an adaptor in spark plug hole or 'rope technique' - can google these - to hold valves, get valve springs off, and change the 'cheap' stem seals. I haven't tried this but I guess if you used compressed air, I guess you could put tape on the end of the valves to stop them dropping through, release air, and then move the valves to the normally open position and wiggle them to see if guides ok.

And vacuum to seat is to lock the back of the seat - motor off, people get in and out - motor starts, they lock in place. Will have to check they are holding vac another use for the mityvac.

Where does the other end of the gizmo go?
Craig Baulderstone
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by Aegean » Wed 12 Jun, 2019 9:49 am

The "Gizmos" are switchover (directional) valves
merc bay.jpg
When active, it will supply vaccum to retard side of ignition.
When inactive, it will close vac side shut and open retard side to surrounding air (thus not affecting - reducing advance)
To check: when engine at 80*C, a/c on should result in rpm increase to ~850rpm.
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Wed 12 Jun, 2019 11:24 am

Wow! - Look at that engine Old Timer.....how many hours to make yours look like that!

Are the Gizmos also associated with a/c? Sometimes timing is affected to pick up idle speed once compressor kicks in on some cars.
Craig Baulderstone
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Wed 12 Jun, 2019 2:51 pm

AHHHHH both you guys, looking at that engine makes me weep with what I think lays ahead with mine. Have seen it before somewhere. The steel line/tubing that connects via a banjo fitting underneath the inlet manifold firewall end also has a rubber tube that runs to the Gizmo's. The steel tube runs down towards the transmission somewhere. I will take some pic's and post. I also discovered buried under the inlet manifold a line running from the distributor with some sort of cap on it but not connected anywhere. I will also take pic's of this and post.

Cheers for now and again a big thank you to all.

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by jbp » Wed 12 Jun, 2019 4:15 pm

OT
The vacuum locks activate with motor running and door closed. The door switch senses when door opens and the seat back locks should release even with engine running from memory.
You should be able to see the locks rotate and engage/disengage when looking down at the seat.

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Wed 12 Jun, 2019 4:31 pm

And W126 SEC have a button on the side that releases the vacuum if you have door closed and want it to go forward.... not sure why you would want to do that and never used it myself - but still - another place for potential leak. 126 has a vac switch in the door that looks just like the electric one to turn on the door light - looks odd with two there - too wet to go outside and check my slc!

Each to their own - love seeing engines like that but none of mine look that good - I figure i have too many cars to maintain without keeping them like that, but really great to see how they would have been. Make the engine work and look however you want it too!

Yes banjo is source of vacuum - line down to trans is to the vacuum modulator on the trans. You need to check that modulator because the diapragm can go and not only make the trans play up but also suck your trans fluid into the intake and make plumes of white smoke or maybe a slow leak could help add to deposits in inlets. And rubber line to create vacuum to gizmos..... but where does the other side go to? That line to the dizzy probably should go to one of these from what Aegean has said above.
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Thu 13 Jun, 2019 5:18 pm

Hi All. Am I posting in the right section here or should I be posting in the W107 section? Dropped off inlet manifold and valve covers for chemical clean. Also took injectors to get cleaned. As the injectors had heaps of silicon to seal them, inside and outside of the plastic bushing, I was asked if originally O rings sealed the injector to the bottom of the plastic bushing/jacket and if O rings also sealed the plastic bushing into the cylinder head? Looks like the plastic bushings will need replacing. Are they easily sourced? Have scoured the net with no luck, might have try original Mercedes parts. I also thinking of replacing the rubber hoses that connect the halves of the manifold as suggested by CraigB. Hoping to do compression test over the weekend. Cheers Laurie

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Thu 13 Jun, 2019 6:28 pm

Your right - just moved it to W107

I would be surprised if those parts aren't available at least from one of the big US suppliers - see if someone responds or will have a hunt. MB doesn't make these and no doubt on other cars, so would think OEM parts available (Bosch etc) - sometimes if you can track down the part number, googling that can be the fastest way to find stuff.
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450SEL Boris
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Thu 13 Jun, 2019 6:39 pm

couldn't help myself - try this link to Autohaus.az - it is all the fuel related stuff for '1970 280se 3.5' - so I think all that stuff should be the same for your engine - certainly injector seals on there for about $1. Put what you want in a cart and keep checking shipping - should find a sweet spot where min price or so covered and get best value for your shipping dollar. Things like oil filters even are usually very cheap and I have been known to add those if in effect that means they are shipped for free (as part of that min charge.) Hope that makes sense. Also on the page are a number of the rubbers in the system you will need. You will get the part numbers from there and can cross check with Pelican parts, fcp euro etc,

https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c/me ... s=d&page=5
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by Aegean » Thu 13 Jun, 2019 7:54 pm

350SLC.pdf
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W136 170s W186 300b W180 220s W109 6.3 C107 450 W116 6.9 W124 E320 Cab CLK 430
'72 Ranchero GT, Subaru SVX x 4, Subaru Vortex, DKW F89P, DKW 3=6, Skoda Octavia Super, Skoda Felicia Cabrio,
and the odd Porsche, Holden, Tatra, Buick............

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Fri 14 Jun, 2019 3:53 am

CraigB wrote:
Thu 13 Jun, 2019 6:39 pm
couldn't help myself - try this link to Autohaus.az - it is all the fuel related stuff for '1970 280se 3.5' - so I think all that stuff should be the same for your engine - certainly injector seals on there for about $1. Put what you want in a cart and keep checking shipping - should find a sweet spot where min price or so covered and get best value for your shipping dollar. Things like oil filters even are usually very cheap and I have been known to add those if in effect that means they are shipped for free (as part of that min charge.) Hope that makes sense. Also on the page are a number of the rubbers in the system you will need. You will get the part numbers from there and can cross check with Pelican parts, fcp euro etc,

https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c/me ... s=d&page=5
Hi Craig Your a genius! also looked at the 1974 450slc and found parts are more or less the same. Also found other parts that I will need, fantastic!!!

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Fri 14 Jun, 2019 3:56 am

Aegean wrote:
Thu 13 Jun, 2019 7:54 pm
350SLC.pdf
Hi Aegean, very helpful. Thanks heaps. I now have a reference to cross check part no's with.

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Mon 17 Jun, 2019 5:44 pm

Hi All. Another mystery part as mentioned before was jammed underneath inlet manifold. A yellow electrical cable
DSC02814.JPG
It leads and connects to this little round black object sits next power steering reservoir,
DSC02815.JPG
Then the same cable exits and
DSC02816.JPG
leads to an electrical connection on the side of the inner guard. Can anyone tell me what it is and it's function please. What type of sealant is used on the rubber tubes that connect the upper manifold to the plenum. Thank you.
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by Aegean » Mon 17 Jun, 2019 5:52 pm

That little round object is the diagnostic plug. If you remove the cap, you will see the numbers for a pulse reader. As far as I know, they were never used by the service departments.

No need for sealant on the "intermediate piece" but you might want to use some WD40 to lubricate them to make it easier to install. Part number for the rubber seals is A1171400265

Craig
W136 170s W186 300b W180 220s W109 6.3 C107 450 W116 6.9 W124 E320 Cab CLK 430
'72 Ranchero GT, Subaru SVX x 4, Subaru Vortex, DKW F89P, DKW 3=6, Skoda Octavia Super, Skoda Felicia Cabrio,
and the odd Porsche, Holden, Tatra, Buick............

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Tue 18 Jun, 2019 3:36 am

Aegean wrote:
Mon 17 Jun, 2019 5:52 pm
That little round object is the diagnostic plug. If you remove the cap, you will see the numbers for a pulse reader. As far as I know, they were never used by the service departments.

No need for sealant on the "intermediate piece" but you might want to use some WD40 to lubricate them to make it easier to install. Part number for the rubber seals is A1171400265

Craig
Thanks Craig, can I disconnect it? and what is the little round black cannister with the screw lid on it. What does it do.

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Tue 18 Jun, 2019 8:48 am

The 'black canister' is the diagnostic plug Aegean is referring to - unscrew the cap and you will see it. The first photo though, I am not familiar with. Does it have a part number written on it? You can google that. It sort of looks like it might just be stuck in there to plug the connector and then tucked under the manifold to hide it? And I would imagine no problem if you want to remove it but just trace wires and make sure your not breaking any circuits. As a diagnostic plug I can't imagine it would break a circuit.
Craig Baulderstone
280s's
280SE3.5
280SL Ruby
300TE Otto
350SL Gloria
350SLC Lurch
450SEL Boris
500SEC's...including Syd
560SEL's Foufou and Zac

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Tue 18 Jun, 2019 8:47 pm

Thanks Craig. Now I eventually got around to do doing a compression test on most cylinders I could get access to, here is how it went. No1 135 dry 170 wet, No2 150 dry 170 wet, No5 120 dry 170 wet, No6 100 dry 150 wet, No7 70 dry and 120 wet. Now I am thinking there's something awfully wrong here with 5,6 and 7. Any clues here, could it be valves. Spoke to a good friend today who is a drag racing engine tuner (funny cars) and he advised to go ahead and progress to getting engine started as problem could seized or gummed up rings due to engine not being run for such a long time, 7 years. Once engine is started and run for a period of time to redo compression test and see if results are the same or improved. If results are the same then considering the high mileage, he advised engine should be stripped down and rebuilt. Any advice here? and what would be the approx cost to do this. Thanks again.

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Tue 18 Jun, 2019 10:58 pm

To me the wet 170's are indicating good valves. The very low dry 6 and 7 are going to be contributed to by the valve leaking indicated by the lower wet reading (ie. the wet using oil to momentarily seal off the rings). But the motor sitting, some valves were sitting open and that could be those and once run and they are hammered shut a few thousand times, they might start sealing up. Similarly the rings can be gummed up if say the mixture was not set right, valve stem seals leaking and burning oil etc. - I think you said intake all gummed up, so chances are rings too. There are methods you can find to help free up the rings - I've seen Mercmad on here talk about putting trans fluid in intake, perhaps sprayed in - but make sure you research that first. In the old days I had a smokey Triumph Spitfire and I used redex down the spark plug holes to soak bores and made an incredible difference. I had a lpg 280 and it had an upper cylinder lube pump on it and like clockwork it would start to blow smoke when the lube ran out - but that was a very worn motor and not comparing apples with apples. Also look at recent posts by 'amg' and I think he talked about using three bond engine conditioner in place of the old school redex that is not available.

But do check those other bores and see if they tell a consistent story. But I agree if there is a similar story, worth trying to run it and see how it changes. In the back of my mind is all the build up in your intake and I'm not sure why that occurs - not saying that is odd, just I am not sure what feature is causing it and if it is telling you something specific. I have this feeling you will end up doing valve stem seals at some stage, but that won't stop you getting it running I think, but might play a role in the build up which could also affect rings. Sorry no definitive answers and just thinking out loud and others may be able to add their thoughts.

As for pulling it down, there is a potential can of worms. Check out ring and bearing prices. Nothing wrong with reusing bearings if you have crank wear and check with plastigauge. You would want to check gasket kit prices. If the bores aren't bad when measured and you can hone them, and piston ring grooves ok, and that's all possible because its all top quality mahle, then still a few dollars to spend but not too bad. Even a crank grind and oversize bearings not crazy. But if bores are worn, its serious money for oversize pistons and not readily available. I have gone oversize using a set of good used pistons and now can't find rings to fit. Resleeving is a possibility but check prices. And of course heads can swallow a serious amount of money - upwards of 2k normally to hand over heads to be done usually and have heard figures double that. And that's if heads are serviceable. Giving a motor to a workshop to have it rebuilt can easily chew up $10k - which is why it always amazes me when people try to sell good motors and nobody wants to buy them even to sit on them in case needed.

Main point of mentioning all that is to reinforce that if it was me, I would be aiming to keep the motor together and get it running first and see if you can avoid those costs. If you then pulled it down and found problems and your not worried about having a matching numbers car, then probably worth looking around for say a rusty W116 sedan with a good running motor you can test, drive, see running etc - swap your sump onto etc. eg. I bought a 450SEL for 1500 and runs really well, no smoke etc etc., trans great too. That's another thing you are yet to test. But just make sure your not buying more problems. But for now, I would keep going on your path and just see how it runs. Costing you mostly time.
Craig Baulderstone
280s's
280SE3.5
280SL Ruby
300TE Otto
350SL Gloria
350SLC Lurch
450SEL Boris
500SEC's...including Syd
560SEL's Foufou and Zac

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Tue 18 Jun, 2019 11:01 pm

And the last lot of engine bits I brought in for my 350 came from a combination of autohaus.az and other bearings i picked up from a random place - both free shipping in US and had them sent to shipito - as a forwarding service - another thing to google.
Craig Baulderstone
280s's
280SE3.5
280SL Ruby
300TE Otto
350SL Gloria
350SLC Lurch
450SEL Boris
500SEC's...including Syd
560SEL's Foufou and Zac

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Wed 19 Jun, 2019 4:29 am

Hi Craig, thanks again for your great advice. Will continue to put it together and get it started. Yes trans could be a problem as it leaking oil, haven't got to that as yet.
Also finding a good engine builder who is familiar with these engines could prove difficult. Cheers Laurie

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Aegean
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by Aegean » Wed 19 Jun, 2019 11:51 am

I would second Craig's advice, and also put trans fluid in the tank - about 1lt to a full tank initiaily and reduce to 500ml on an ongoing basis. Will keep the fuel lines clear, but nay need to change filters more regularly.

Rebuilding one of these engines is going to set you back close to $10,000 for a full rebuild, so best to avoid this. I am also thinking it is just gummed up from lack of use.

The pan gasket may be where it is leaking from - again from lack of use. Mine was the same (5 - 6 years sitting). You can try nipping up the bolts but don't over-tighten as then it will really leak. Pan gasket is cheap, and you might as well do a filter change while you are there.

Because mine was sitting for a while, so far I have done the water pump, injectors, seals (rubber and plastic base), Fuel pump, filter, accumulator, screen, hoses, Timing chain, guides, tensioner, steering coupling. None of it is overly expensive, but it builds up.

Craig
W136 170s W186 300b W180 220s W109 6.3 C107 450 W116 6.9 W124 E320 Cab CLK 430
'72 Ranchero GT, Subaru SVX x 4, Subaru Vortex, DKW F89P, DKW 3=6, Skoda Octavia Super, Skoda Felicia Cabrio,
and the odd Porsche, Holden, Tatra, Buick............

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Wed 19 Jun, 2019 2:11 pm

You would expect leaking oil if sitting that long from trans and you need to start it before you can check the level (done in park while idling) to see how much has leaked. With that, my first step would be to drop the pan, look for anything odd in the pan like bits of metal etc, change the filter and fluid and also I have read good things about a product called Lucas transmission fix or something like that. At the least it should swell the rubber seals that might be causing your leaks. But also look for obvious leaks of course.
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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Thu 20 Jun, 2019 7:47 am

A big thank you again to both Craig's. I have looked at the Autohausaz website and have written down a full list of parts required to get it all together again to the point of starting up. If she fires up and no apparent problems come to the surface, next step will be to look at trans, pull radiator, engine and trans coolers for cleaning and check water pump. Waiting for outcome of injectors being cleaned and tested. Have delivered fuel tank to Redi-Strip for cleaning and have fuel pump and new filter ready to go in. I am hoping fuel pump will work. In the meantime I have cleaned all the parts on top of and surrounding manifold which has been chemically cleaned. It had to be dipped 3 times to get all the built up carbon out. I have cleaned the carboned up inlet ports and that was a painstaking effort and just realised the ports on cylinders 6 and 7 were the worst which ironically were the worst in the compression test. No need at this point to worry about timing chain as there is very little slack, I believe at some stage the timing chain has been replaced. About to paint the valley in the block and I only have Chevy red, will this upset the purists! or I could use black epoxy paint. Engine guy looked at the intermediate connecters from plenum to manifold and said they were still pliable and to ensure they seal to use a smidgen of silicon sealant. I assume something like silastic? Cheers for now and many thanks again. Laurie

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by CraigB » Thu 20 Jun, 2019 9:50 am

That sounds good and timing chain wise, these aren't the disaster that the later M117 is with one particular guide that breaks - yours should be solid guides with a cover on them and you will hear if that breaks - without destroying the rest of the motor.

The guy who said about these rings being pliable - is he familiar with Mercedes? He has seen it and I haven't, but if you google 'high idle problem Mercedes' or something like that, these are a known culprit for trouble, relatively cheap and main pain is getting it all off to replace.... and yours is off. But not the end of world whatever and go with what you think - just thought i would mention what was on my mind. And yes he would mean silastic, but other sealers out there. I know silastic has been used for years by lots of people and obviously not a universal problem and also this is inlet tract, but have seen a couple of mates destroy motors from use (perhaps overuse) of silastic. It dries regardless and then creates something solid that can block oilways etc. whereas other sealants on the market can be non-hardening unless under pressure, so its hard where you need it and not a problem if elsewhere. Also silicon is usually acetic cure and that can have rust issues with bodies, so its just a product I don't use, but in this particular situation I don't see a problem. But if going to buy a tube of silastic, maybe look at the qualities of what else is there too.

And paint, its not hot like an exhaust and I think a lot of engine paint is just an enamel, so your black will probably be fine - I don't know how much you can see of it anyway with the valley? Won't bother me regardless!
Craig Baulderstone
280s's
280SE3.5
280SL Ruby
300TE Otto
350SL Gloria
350SLC Lurch
450SEL Boris
500SEC's...including Syd
560SEL's Foufou and Zac

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by Chai » Wed 26 Jun, 2019 7:35 pm

Regarding the first photo. That's the induction pickup for one of the diagnostic pins inside the canister with the screw cap.
Spark plug lead number one is threaded through the centre of that induction pickup. Of course, only original style solid core spark plug leads will fit the hole.
Chai
1974 450SLC

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by old timer » Sun 30 Jun, 2019 7:06 am

Chai wrote:
Wed 26 Jun, 2019 7:35 pm
Regarding the first photo. That's the induction pickup for one of the diagnostic pins inside the canister with the screw cap.
Spark plug lead number one is threaded through the centre of that induction pickup. Of course, only original style solid core spark plug leads will fit the hole.
Hi Chai, apologies for the late reply. Do the induction line and canister serve a purpose? do they really need to be there. As I mentioned the induction line was buried under the manifold. I have seen lots of images on google were the induction line and canister have been removed which is what I am thinking of doing. I think Aegean mentioned that the purpose of these items were for diagnostic purposes which the Aussie dealers never used. As per Craigs B advice I have ordered from Autohauaz all the parts needed to reinstall inlet manifold, injectors, hoses etc.. As soon as they arrive everything will go back together and hopefully I will get it fired up. Thank you for your input. Cheers Laurie

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Re: Inlet Manifold removed

Post by Chai » Sun 30 Jun, 2019 8:23 pm

I doubt anyone has a working (Bosch?) diagnostic equipment to plug into the canister any more.
It's possible to check the car without this plug so is not required to be retained unless you want to retain the original look.
Chai
1974 450SLC

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