380 SE

1979-1991 280SE, 300SE, 300SEL, 380SE, 380SEL, 380SEC, 420SE, 420SEL, 420SEC, 500SE, 500SEL, 500SEC, 560SEL, 560SEC
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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 16 Jun, 2014 7:08 pm

Thank you Thomas!

No progress today, tooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo cold!

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 19 Jun, 2014 7:15 pm

Managed to fit the hood liner today. I tried a different adhesive this time. I used the Kwik Grip gel. I thought it might be worth a try because it doesn't string like the usual contact adhesive does. The disadvantage, it has a very short curing time, once the hood liner is fitted, you have just a few minutes to position it correctly, then it won't be going anywhere, even if it's applied without delay. This gel is apparently suitable to vertical surfaces, but its adhesive qualities suggest it would be suitable for any orientation. Ask me in 10 years I suppose!

I tried to find the water based Kwik Grip Advanced that John (green380sec) suggested but I couldn't find it. The gel I used is supposed to be foam and plastic friendly, we will see.

Some pics..

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I vacuumed the mat first

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Then placed it on a clean section of the floor and applied the adhesive liberally. Being foam, it does tend to absorb a bit, so you need to be aware of that. I used almost all of the 800 gram tin.

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Here we go!

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Don't forget to re-fit the small rubber blocks on each side of the bonnet!

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I ran my hands over it pressing firmly from the centre outwards for approximately 15 minutes after application and I'm happy with how it's come up.

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I haven't had the opportunity as yet to strip the remaining skirts and front bumper ready for the paint shop as yet. With the interior, that should sort the cosmetics. More later...

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pastelgrey300D
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Re: 380 SE

Post by pastelgrey300D » Fri 20 Jun, 2014 9:53 am

Looks good! Was there a noticeable difference in engine noise inside the car and/or standing next to the front bumper with the bonnet shut?
David
1967 W111 230S - Horizonblau
1965 W110 190c - Mittelrot
1967 W110 200D - Weiss (work in progress)
+ other classics

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 20 Jun, 2014 3:14 pm

I cannot say about the 380 as it has not been started since the exercise was completed. Most of the material was there anyway, apart from the front 1/3 or so which I cut away in the cars early days to stop it falling over the engine. However, I did an experiment with the W126 280 SE when I performed the same job so I assume the 380 to record a similar finding. The 280 was noticeably quieter from the outside with the mat replaced. Additionally, the temperature of the bonnet exterior was much reduced. The difference to engine nose from within the car was undetectable. I didn't use a SPL meter so I cannot add any objective analysis to this subjective observation! I suppose I should have, but the insulation is meant to be there, so that's good enough for me!

Note however, the replacement mat is of a different construction to what was the original fitment. This is what the original looked like on the W116 below, being identical to the W126 type, it's a sort of chequered open cell foam, quite squishy! But the current replacement whilst being foam backed, has a coarse layer of almost denim like black cotton over the foam. It's noticeably thicker than the original foam type. The only aspect to the replacement liner that I find a little annoying is the silver heat pad. Apparently, these replacement liners are to suit all models, the silver section is designed to sit directly above the turbocharger on the 300 SD and 300 SDL models.

Image

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 20 Jun, 2014 3:19 pm

Here's a better image of the original type liner.

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TheMadRacoon
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Re: 380 SE

Post by TheMadRacoon » Sat 21 Jun, 2014 7:58 pm

It looks like I could eat my lunch off that W116 engine bay. Well done Carl, you set us all a high standard to aim for.
Emad,
TheMadRacoon
1975 350SLC Astral Silver (725) / Blue (2012, 284,900 km - present.... a real Benz, getting better and better)
1988 190E Deep Blue (900) / Cream (2006, 190,000 km - 2007, ~ 215,000 km .... FSH and still spent big $$$)
1974 280E Reed Green (860) / Bone (1993, 316,700 km - 2004, ~490,000 km and still A1)

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 22 Jun, 2014 10:35 am

TheMadRacoon wrote:It looks like I could eat my lunch off that W116 engine bay. Well done Carl, you set us all a high standard to aim for.
It's not that clean but thanks for the compliment! That car is quite tidy. It turned 40 this year.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 14 Jul, 2014 6:25 pm

Rome wasn't built in a day! The work continues somewhat slower over the last month. The main problem has been the cold. I can't let too much of this car get around my other work and working late hasn't been holding much attraction when it's 7 degrees.

I've been thinking about the window regulator and the plastic slider. Interestingly, if you pull a replacement slider apart, you can see it's internally damped for up and down motion by two parallel rubber strips.

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So this really vindicated my decision to stay with the original slider, being the fact that it has the dampening function. What I struggled with was the way the slider rivet was terminated in the regulator arm. I just found it hard to accept you bashed the end over with a ball pein hammer! (Although I confess I would have placed it in a press). Here is how it appears on the front regulator.

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So I decided to drill and tap a thread down the centre of the rivet and affix it with a screw, the pics should tell the story.

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The regulator had broken before and you can see how the angle grinder had been used to remove the remains of the last rivet:

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So if course it had to be painted.

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I had to then machine the rivet end so that it was flush with the regulator arm. This allowed the washer under the screw to fit flush with both the rivet and the regulator arm.

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After spending a whole day on this exercise, I finally began to prepare the car for the repair to the right rear guard. As parts came off, specifically the skirts and right rear light, I was able to examine the panels in greater detail, and the inside of the doors. Notice the small 7mm plastic nut that affixes one end of the skirt to the body. There are small access holes behind the rubber seal on the trailing edge of the doors, however my socket would fit through the left side, but not the right. You can see part of the door trim pressing obscures the orifice for the socket. Luckily I already had the door trims off.

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And so the car is looking quite naked now. And here is the problem. After careful consideration and looking at both sides carefully, I came up with the following conclusion. The entire right hand side of the car needs to be painted. Sigh. The reason is that the left side, although that has been painted in the past, is good. The right side has also been painted, but the job is quite poor. The panels on the inside don't show evidence of a major repair, so I assume it was a parking scrape or some other such annoyance. However, the re-paint was performed without removing the skirts and you can easily feel a lip at the area where the skirt meets the door. And although the paintless dent removal really was flawless, the right rear door skin is slightly wavy and there is a sizeable chip in the drivers side front wing. So off it comes to prepare for that.... After discussion with my painter, he agreed that this was the best course of action. Sadly, the paint will have to blended into the boot, the bonnet and the roof structure meaning more disassembly. Oh well.

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I also spent some time mixing and matching a set of skirts I found to make a perfect set. I am very happy that I was able to find a set of undamaged trim strips. The gold coloured skirts are excellent, just the wrong colour! The bumpers are average at best, small parking dents and chips. More work! And a shelf of bits off the car....

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I still have to remove the screen washers from the bonnet and wash the car before presenting it to the painter.

I have not replaced the interior as yet, I'm still feeding the leather. And it is still soaking up the hide food, though at a much reduced rate over the last few applications.

My week concluded with a visit to Pick-a-Part where I raided a thistle green 280 SE, managed to secure three like new skirts to complete a perfect set, a drivers side front seat belt position trim slider and a set of M110 manifolds for my W116 exhaust project.

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I would like to admit that this is the home stretch, but too soon I think. More later...

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T-Modell
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Re: 380 SE

Post by T-Modell » Mon 14 Jul, 2014 6:39 pm

Amazing Carl, your level of detail! :occasion5: ... I'd be too embarrassed to show you my car ... have you already registered the domain "best-w126-in-the-world.com"? :laughing6: :laughing6:

Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

KimB
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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Tue 15 Jul, 2014 10:48 am

Hey Carl,

Why don't you take the thistle green 280SE from Pick a Part as a second project once the 380SE is finished! :laughing6:

Oh I'm a cheeky boy!

Cheers
Kim
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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pastelgrey300D
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Re: 380 SE

Post by pastelgrey300D » Tue 15 Jul, 2014 12:59 pm

a drivers side front seat belt position trim slider and a set of M110 manifolds for my W116 exhaust project.
Nice find - I've seen a lot of W126s where those sliders are broken or badly sun damaged. Self serve wreckers are excellent for trim parts and odds and ends like that and the price is soooo cheap.
David
1967 W111 230S - Horizonblau
1965 W110 190c - Mittelrot
1967 W110 200D - Weiss (work in progress)
+ other classics

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Tue 15 Jul, 2014 7:19 pm

Are there any self serve merc wreckers in Sydney?
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 15 Jul, 2014 8:50 pm

T-Modell wrote:Amazing Carl, your level of detail! :occasion5: ... I'd be too embarrassed to show you my car ... have you already registered the domain "best-w126-in-the-world.com"? :laughing6: :laughing6:

Thomas
Arrrggghhhhh, it's not that good Thomas, but thanks. Of course, we all dream of finding that 600km car that's had all its annual services! That would probably be the best one!

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 15 Jul, 2014 8:52 pm

KimB wrote:Hey Carl,

Why don't you take the thistle green 280SE from Pick a Part as a second project once the 380SE is finished! :laughing6:

Oh I'm a cheeky boy!

Cheers
Kim
I'll just be smart and say I already have one that's a little better than the Pick-a-Part offering, but please, you go ahead Kim :dance: :dance: :dance:
Last edited by carl888 on Tue 15 Jul, 2014 9:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 15 Jul, 2014 9:04 pm

pastelgrey300D wrote:
a drivers side front seat belt position trim slider and a set of M110 manifolds for my W116 exhaust project.
Nice find - I've seen a lot of W126s where those sliders are broken or badly sun damaged. Self serve wreckers are excellent for trim parts and odds and ends like that and the price is soooo cheap.
Indeed, the problem is you need to get to the car quickly however. I've discovered that people have no respect for pulling a car apart. For example, in the case of the thistle green W126 pictured, it had very nice door trims, but they had been simply wrenched off, all four were rendered useless by some troglodyte ripping the trims off to get the window regulators out.

The front seat belt slider I found, was in the boot!

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 10 Dec, 2014 10:07 pm

It's been nearly 5 months since an update. From August onwards life just become busy and the 380 SE had to take a back seat. Adding to the delay was securing more space for car exploits and general fun and games. Now that's behind me, a chance meeting with the painter last Friday was well timed, he had a vacancy before Christmas, joy of joys!

The car was reasonably well prepared for paint shop as per the previous pics in July but one thing was bugging me. The drivers side front guard had been replaced at some stage. It didn't abut the "A" pillar as it should. Some pics:

This is the passenger side, and it's fine. The gap is correct and both the rubber grommet and trim at the base of the moulding ensure this gap remains at about 3mm.

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Now have a look at the drivers side:

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Sadly, there was no other option but to remove the drivers side front guard and investigate further, more parts coming off, again!

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And I'm glad I did. The repairer has in the past performed the following slovenly work:

-Not fitted a $1.58 cent grommet in the front guard where it meets the "A" pillar. This has allowed the panel to rub on the "A" pillar, removing the paint and allowing surface corrosion.
-Incorrectly fitted the "A" pillar rain moulding allowing it to rub against the front guard. (The rubber trim was fitted the wrong side of the moulding).
-Not applied any underseal to the inside of the guard. This is specifically referred to in the WSM.
-Not fitted the seal at the top of the wing where it meets the inner guard (This explains the extra clearance on this side in relation to the bonnet.
-Used an incorrect fastener to affix the guard to the sill.

Some pics.

Where the guard was rubbing:

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The missing grommet, $1.58...... it fits in the hole in the above image.

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Incorrectly fitted rubber seal to the "A" pillar trim, the rubber should cover the hole.

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The inside of the front guard, no underseal what so ever:

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There should be a seal that runs along the top of the guard behind the screw holes. No seal was present:

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Odd fastener on the RHS:

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Luckily, it appears the need to the replace the front guard was superficial, the car was very nice, complete with its original wax behind:

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So the only thing left to do was to wash it and take it to the painter.......or was it?

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Look at the garage floor, Oh no!

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Let's rewind a little and consider the automatic transmission fluid leak. When I was driving the car regularly, this leak became worse and worse and it was clear the leak was at least in the vicinity of the transmission pan seal. Since there was no evidence of the fluid or the filter being replaced it was a good excuse to do so.

Dirty old thing:

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Notice the missing exhaust mount fastener? Did it just decide to fall out? Another item on the list to replace....


New filter and pan seal (Not shown)

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The first thing to do is to drain the sump. A 5mm INHEX does the trick, and don't forget to the change the 8mm washer. Additionally, it's also important to drain the torque converter as well. It's also a 5mm INHEX but to get to it, you must remove the cross member to gain access:

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I let them both drain over night. When working on the Automatic transmission, it is imperative that absolute cleanliness is observed. Even the slightest contaminants can cause operational issues.

Transmission with pan and filter removed, second image with new filter in place:

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The fluid looked OK, slightly darkened but not burned or nasty smelling. There was a small amount of staining in the base of the pan which cleaned up nicely. No teeth, swarf or bearings in the bottom!

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Ready to go on, with new seal:

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So back to the spots on the floor, why was it still leaking? VERY annoying. It had two leaks, one from the old pan gasket, and another from the transmission modulator that I discovered only yesterday. It was so oily underneath I hadn't spotted the latter, just the pan gasket leak. I couldn't take it to my friends paint shop and make it appear that the Exxon Valdez had visited. So out it came. The modulator is on the left hand side of the transmission and it's a very tight fit as the exhaust is beside it.

Here is the modulator, it's the brown, round thingy:

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And out it comes, no wonder it was leaking, look at the "O" ring.... It's flat, hard and has a tear in it.

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That's better:

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And tested as of tonight, no more leaks, phew. Additionally, since there is a vacuum line to it, I decided to replace the rubber hose, it's about 2" long and joins the modulator to the steel vacuum line. Glad I did, the old one was quite hard.


Ready for the paint shop, no, I forgot to remove the fuel filler flap, here we go, now we're good to go!

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Some items with the filler flap, "A" pillar trim and the panel below the headlight:

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A rather big day, tomorrow it goes. More later.....

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 11 Dec, 2014 8:11 pm

There was one thing I forgot, the windscreen washers! They simply push up from underneath to remove.

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Good news today, it's in the shop at last!

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I don't suppose anyone has a spare oil reminder sticker for the inside of the fuel filler flap? Mine seems to missing a section. Or if not, any chance someone could read the part number off theirs please?

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T-Modell
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Re: 380 SE

Post by T-Modell » Thu 11 Dec, 2014 8:22 pm

Hi Carl,

looks like this one, but he's blanked out the number ... maybe ask for shipping to Oz ...
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Neuer-originaler ... 20f23aded3

Regards
Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 11 Dec, 2014 8:31 pm

Thomas thank you, that's the sticker all right.

Oddly, I just googled "Mercedes oil Sticker" and pulled up this image with the part number on the side so that's also a good start.

Hope your Winter is not too cold but you have good snow coverage for Christmas!

Regards,

Carl.

Image

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 13 Dec, 2014 1:02 pm

Here we go re: oil sticker:

Good morning Carl,

That sticker is available, $5 ex-Germany so delivery time would be 2-3 weeks.

Just let me know if you’d like to go ahead with it.

Spare Parts
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Ph: (03) 9690 8833
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Web: www.mercedes-benz.com.au

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 15 Dec, 2014 9:13 pm

It's coming along...

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 19 Dec, 2014 7:55 pm

The work continues:

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As of today, car is in High Fill primer:

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T-Modell
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Re: 380 SE

Post by T-Modell » Fri 19 Dec, 2014 8:49 pm

Unbelievable! :occasion5: ... in case you got time over xmas, secret tip here from Germany to make it perfect: inside the front light bulbs, there's sometimes dust. Get them out, drill a 1mm hole and carefully use pressure air. It's amazing, you will notice the difference! :laughing6:

Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

Omar
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Re: 380 SE

Post by Omar » Sat 20 Dec, 2014 1:19 pm

Wow! Germans really are perfectionists. I wonder how often they change the air in their tyres. :laughing6:

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 20 Dec, 2014 4:07 pm

T-Modell wrote:Unbelievable! :occasion5: ... in case you got time over xmas, secret tip here from Germany to make it perfect: inside the front light bulbs, there's sometimes dust. Get them out, drill a 1mm hole and carefully use pressure air. It's amazing, you will notice the difference! :laughing6:

Thomas
Thanks Thomas, are you speaking of the headlights or indicator lamps? (Maybe both)?

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T-Modell
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Re: 380 SE

Post by T-Modell » Sat 20 Dec, 2014 6:09 pm

Omar wrote:Wow! Germans really are perfectionists. I wonder how often they change the air in their tyres. :laughing6:
We don't ... a car is only really original, when you've got the original air in them :laughing6: :laughing6:

Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

Omar
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Re: 380 SE

Post by Omar » Sat 20 Dec, 2014 11:27 pm

T-Modell wrote:
Omar wrote:Wow! Germans really are perfectionists. I wonder how often they change the air in their tyres. :laughing6:
We don't ... a car is only really original, when you've got the original air in them :laughing6: :laughing6:

Thomas
Good one Thomas! :laughing6: :laughing6: :laughing6:

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 22 Dec, 2014 7:54 pm

Two questions if I may:

1. Does anyone know if the seals between the screen washer jets and the bonnet are available separately? Looking at the parts book it appears one has to purchase the jets as well as it comes in a kit.

2. Where the front guards attach to the body, on the LHS there is a thin rubber seal that runs the length of the top of the guard on the inside. I see no evidence of this guard being removed since manufacture. However, this seal is missing on the RHS. Again, I can't find it in the parts book, anyone know? A little hard to explain in writing so here's a pic below, it's a black seal, about 1" wide and runs the length of the inside of the top section of the guard, where the mounting holes are. (Of course, it could be attached to the body instead).

Thanks for any help!

Image

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 09 Jan, 2015 7:23 pm

Nothing is really as simple as it seems! The plan was to have the car in paint before Christmas however a few small things conspired against it, such as the humid weather and annoyingly, the realisation that the car was actually a mixture of two colours. I'd never noticed, but when this was pointed out to me, of course I saw it every time.

The right hand side of the car had been painted before except for the window frames, with a blend into the bonnet, boot and roofline. I am not sure of the colour difference will show in the following images, but I'll give it a go. Here's the paint rubbed back and the blend runs upwards from the "C" pillar to my finger:

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It's a little hard to see in the sun, apart from the white bits!

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Playing around with some colour swatches on the "Good" side:

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The problem was the right hand side of the car had a little green in the base colour, the left hand, a little violet. You wouldn't have really noticed except the side of the boot and bonnet changed colour slightly as you went from one side to the other. Arrggghhhhhh.

Boot colour:

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So the decision was made to repaint all the areas that didn't match the original colour and to leave any original paint provided it was of sufficient quality. The horizontal roof section (Up to the seams on either side) the left side of the car and all the door frames were the original colour. Here's the car masked up in the oven:

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I was going to remove the rear window however luckily it was easy to roll back the rear window seal to expose that area for painting. The paint rubbed back nicely in areas that didn't require repair so it's ready to have the top coat applied.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 09 Jan, 2015 7:37 pm

The inside of the fuel filler assembly carried its original paint, as did the door frames, so that was masked off. With regards to what's left, I just have to underseal the inner section of the front RH guard, since this was never done in the first place.

As for the rest of the car, well, it's done :)

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And finally, the "Good" side!

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Paint will need to harden and be denibbed but looking forward to actually putting things back on..................hopefully soon!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by T-Modell » Fri 09 Jan, 2015 8:32 pm

Well, the Victoria Vintage Car Club Association should already reserve the "best condition car ever 2016" price for you! :occasion5: :occasion5:

Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

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Giles
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Re: 380 SE

Post by Giles » Sat 10 Jan, 2015 12:17 am

Better than factory, my hat is of to your quest of having the best series 1 W126 ever, anywhere.

Sensational quest, can't wait to see the international accolades your car receives.

Regards,

Giles
1981 500SLC (Colour Black) Keeper car Lola
1975 280CE Signal Red Long term Project Ginger
1999 W163 ML430 MB Search & Rescue Vehicle Mary-Lou
1987 W126 420SEL Melb based long hauler Erwin

http://www.kudoscc.com.au

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markb
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Re: 380 SE

Post by markb » Sat 10 Jan, 2015 12:14 pm

Looks fantastic Carl.

Can we assume your deadline is this year's MBCV Concours ?
Current Fleet
1985 C123 280CE Midnight Blue with blue MB Tex (240k klms, Daily Driver 2010- )
Past Benzes:
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 White (2002-2003 project)
1971 W108 280SE 3.5 White (1999-2006 Unmolested original & sadly missed)
1987 S124 230TE Diamond Blue (2002-2007 Family cruiser)
1983 W126 280SE Champagne 106k Klms (Custodian in 2013)
1969 W113 280SL Champagne (Custodian in 2000)
1988 W124 300E Diamond Blue (2016 project)

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 12 Jan, 2015 5:01 pm

Well, thanks for the kind comments. The car does look better in the pics than in real life however. Remember it's done 111,000 kms, there is no excuse for it looking as bad as it does and despite all the work, it won't be as good as the 280 SE which hadn't suffered neglect like this poor thing. None the less, I've learned a lot and it's good the car didn't end up at Simsmetal, which is where it was headed. I think it will make a very nice driver but it won't be a show car, we'll see.

As for the MBCV annual concour next month Mark, I am positive it will be a no show. There is still a fair bit to do, mainly the bumpers and side skirts are yet to be painted. There is also some issues underside which must be attended to, namely the wonky (And grounded) exhaust system and its missing fasteners. It's also missing its entire interior! I can see it swallowing at least another 100 hours in a heartbeat and I don't think I can find that before the show. On the off chance it's completed, I'll bring it. I was planning to come in the W116 as I haven't brought that for a few years. Be nice to see everyone this year.

Sunday February 22
Mornington Racecourse

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 12 Feb, 2015 11:14 am

Luckily, the assembly process has begun. Here we go...

I'm sure this will make it go faster, the genuine underseal lol

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So needed to get a few parts over the last few weeks and now most are here, I've decided to get into it and actually put things back on. It's always nice when this corner is turned, but as you'll see shortly, it's not without its hiccups. I laughed however when the other 1980s stuff was in the way from getting the car out of the factory. Just need some Gucci loafers and a pastel suit I suppose. I love the 1980s!

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The fuel filler was annoying me, and since that's a simple job, it gave a much needed boost to my motivation once fitted.

Firstly, the new oil level reminder stickers!

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But the problem is the non original filler cap, being a later replacement. Having a look in my box of goodies I turned up these:

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Not sure which is correct, but the 280 SE has the type with the pressed in "*" as opposed to the where it sits proud. Having had bad luck with plating these in the past (Spring losing its tension and leaking) I just cleaned it up and painted it silver. One day I'll find a N.O.S. one at a swap meeting, but this will do for now.

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Coming to the rear I had always noticed the exhaust was bent slightly downwards. And the poor thing had been scraping on the ground. Replacing the hangers and a strategically placed trolley jack and pad made it better, but I'll have to wait until the bumper is re-fitted to determine if my work was entirely successful.

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Apart from the bumper, all the rear installed and the bootlid gap adjusted.

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Next thing to do was to fit the front guard, but firstly, I needed to the clean the area first:

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And underseal/stoneguard the inner side of the guard. As mentioned before, this was never done. Slovenly!

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Whilst the above was curing I fitted the rubber trim to the gutter or "A" pillar trim. Previously the rubber was fitted to the wrong side allowing this trim to rub directly on the front guard.

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And fit that pesky little rubber grommet that was previously missing allowing the guard to rub on the "A" pillar:

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I dumped half a can of this cavity wax from Wurth at the top of the guard before fitting. It's really good and has excellent creep qualities:

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Guard fitted but loose initially allowing the gaps to be adjusted. Now this is where the fun began. It took half a day to adjust the position of the guard and the bonnet and get the shut lines correct. It's amazing what just 1mm of extra gap can look like.

When I was happy with the guard I fitted the "A" pillar trim.

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Guard fitted and gapped:

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Now to fit the lights. I was having on going issues with the right hand head light, I could never get the beam to focus properly for some reason. So I swapped the nice glass I had over to the new (Used) housing I had that had featured a sandblasted lens, and joy of joys, it worked a treat:

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I was pleased to see on the underside of the replacement lamp housing, evidence of travel wax applied at the factory from new. And that its condition matched the LH side.

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Clean up of the lamp unit and headlight area before installation:

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And in we go with the indicator to follow, and fitment of the lower headlight trim:

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The bonnet was still about 1mm too high on the drivers side, so luckily there was a shim I could remove from the right side latch to adjust the bonnet edge down, with a corresponding drop of the rubber stop:

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Together, at last.....

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Next item, the skirts and bumpers which are soon to make an appearance at the painters. I manged to make a decent set of skirts from the three cars I've raided. Just have to remove the steel trim, which is actually quite time consuming, you need to be careful not to put a crease in the metal, it shows most obviously if one does so.

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Cleaning the bumpers, amazing how much rubbish gets trapped behind. Here I am cleaning them before removal of the trim. And a few images of them afterwards:

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Time to begin refitting the door handles. Firstly, I washed the locks and mechanism in the parts washer, lots of grime came out. Cleaned up nicely and after re-lubrication had a very smooth action.

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That's enough for now, I need to get back to proper work!

KimB
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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Thu 12 Feb, 2015 1:47 pm

I insist on having first dibs on your 380SE when you decide to sell it Carl!

Great work! Maybe you should start up a Mercedes restoration business!

By the way, in the photo where you are cleaning the bumpers...are you wearing Gucci loafers? :laughing5:

Cheers
Kim
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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DBW124
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Re: 380 SE

Post by DBW124 » Thu 12 Feb, 2015 5:38 pm

KimB wrote:I insist on having first dibs on your 380SE when you decide to sell it Carl!

Great work! Maybe you should start up a Mercedes restoration business!

By the way, in the photo where you are cleaning the bumpers...are you wearing Gucci loafers? :laughing5:

Cheers
Kim
:laughing5: :laughing5: :laughing5:
W124 E 280

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Giles
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Re: 380 SE

Post by Giles » Thu 12 Feb, 2015 6:31 pm

Carl I'm bit dissapointed with the condition of the leather lounge that the right hand front guard has been sleeping on.

C'mon man, give the lounge a Leatherique treatment for the guards sake.

Other than that it looks great.

Giles
1981 500SLC (Colour Black) Keeper car Lola
1975 280CE Signal Red Long term Project Ginger
1999 W163 ML430 MB Search & Rescue Vehicle Mary-Lou
1987 W126 420SEL Melb based long hauler Erwin

http://www.kudoscc.com.au

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TheMadRacoon
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Re: 380 SE

Post by TheMadRacoon » Thu 12 Feb, 2015 9:29 pm

Carl, when you've finished, print (in colour) the thread and bind into a booklet and offer it to TAFEs - it should be a reference text about attention to detail and perseverance.

They may even sell like hotcakes at an MBC event!
Emad,
TheMadRacoon
1975 350SLC Astral Silver (725) / Blue (2012, 284,900 km - present.... a real Benz, getting better and better)
1988 190E Deep Blue (900) / Cream (2006, 190,000 km - 2007, ~ 215,000 km .... FSH and still spent big $$$)
1974 280E Reed Green (860) / Bone (1993, 316,700 km - 2004, ~490,000 km and still A1)

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T-Modell
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Re: 380 SE

Post by T-Modell » Thu 12 Feb, 2015 9:51 pm

Carl,

could you please post photos once you have polished the inside of the exhaust? I'd be really interested in that :laughing6: :laughing6:

Amazing, amazing!
Thomas

P. S.: You're really a fan of the 80s ... loafers and white socks :whistle:
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

KimB
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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Fri 13 Feb, 2015 10:18 am

TheMadRacoon wrote:Carl, when you've finished, print (in colour) the thread and bind into a booklet and offer it to TAFEs - it should be a reference text about attention to detail and perseverance.

They may even sell like hotcakes at an MBC event!
I'll buy one! Throw in a free pair of Gucci's and it will be a top seller! :love4:
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 13 Feb, 2015 10:33 pm

Lol, no Gucci loafers, though a girlfriend said once I look a "Bit woggy" so I should buy a pair. Just an old pair of Timberland boat shoes in the photograph. I find them really comfortable. Not so good if you're looking for something waterproof with the added ability to offer protection should you drop an anvil on your toes however.

The problem with a restoration shop is they don't make money because you can't bill for all your labour. Can you imagine a customer paying to you $100 an hour to rub 27 coats of hide food into the seats? In Australia we just don't have that market. Assuming a total restoration of body, interior and mechanicals you'll be looking at around 3,000 hours plus for a Pebble Beach style of restoration of a post war car. And speaking of Pebble Beach, over the last 10 years of winners, almost all came from just two shops in the USA, this guy http://www.cnbc.com/id/101100544#. and Patrick Otis. Scary if you want to muscle in on that sort of territory!

I was involved in a Dino 246 restoration project some years back, here it is under primer. Only 2,000 hours went into this, but in terms of a Pebble beach style restoration it wouldn't even get a look in despite taking it to this level:

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and finished:

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So I guess I could have saved the above and said, no to a restoration shop! Really, I can't say in any way that the 380 SE has been restored, it's had a "Refresh." Perhaps somewhat more diligently than most would bother with, but sometimes I think you need to consider Henry Royce; "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."

The lounge, it looks much worse in the image luckily, it was a considerable investment, cost $10 for the lounge and two chairs, listed nearby on eBay. We feed them once a year so they are actually looked after! The rugs on the floor came from the local op shop at $5 a pop!

Not sure there would be too many takers for the book :) You just have to be careful and take your time. Not very hard, really.

Actually Thomas the exhaust really troubles me, where it's been grounded is annoying because of the scrape marks. I think I'll hopefully trip over one at the local wreckers or perhaps find a NOS somewhere. We'll see. I'll be sure to fit it with white socks should I replace it :)

I managed to do a little today.....

The seats have been sitting under cover for some 6 months. So time to drag them out, and you guessed it, another coat of hide food! 27 now I think, the leather smells amazing, I can't wait to get them back in the car. Even being stored these last 6 months, the seats had absorbed all the hide food, the one behind is just done, I'm about to do the one in the foreground:

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I vacuumed the interior and gave it the once, and final, going over with the carpet cleaning gun. Then, joy of joys, out with the Dissol on the plastic parts! Also managed to fit the "B" pillar trim. It is indeed a good feeling to have items going back on....

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Carpet should dry overnight, then the seats can go back in, great! More later.

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olddog642
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Re: 380 SE

Post by olddog642 » Sat 14 Feb, 2015 12:23 am

Howdy Carl,
she is looking good, but as you said the tail pipes are a worry however with the tenacity that you have shown during this labour of love I'm sure that with a little patience you could carefully trim a little of the ends to tidy them up.
Cheers and keep up the good work
Hylton
Daily driver
1988 190e 2.6 Almandinrot "Etta"

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markb
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Re: 380 SE

Post by markb » Sun 15 Feb, 2015 7:37 am

Carl,

Maybe useful for parts to solve your rear muffler issue ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mercedes-Exh ... 3aa2c93d56


Cheers

Mark
Current Fleet
1985 C123 280CE Midnight Blue with blue MB Tex (240k klms, Daily Driver 2010- )
Past Benzes:
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 White (2002-2003 project)
1971 W108 280SE 3.5 White (1999-2006 Unmolested original & sadly missed)
1987 S124 230TE Diamond Blue (2002-2007 Family cruiser)
1983 W126 280SE Champagne 106k Klms (Custodian in 2013)
1969 W113 280SL Champagne (Custodian in 2000)
1988 W124 300E Diamond Blue (2016 project)

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olddog642
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Re: 380 SE

Post by olddog642 » Mon 16 Feb, 2015 12:37 am

markb wrote:Carl,

Maybe useful for parts to solve your rear muffler issue ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mercedes-Exh ... 3aa2c93d56


Cheers

Mark
I wonder what the ends of the tailpipe look like as they didn't post a photo of them
Daily driver
1988 190e 2.6 Almandinrot "Etta"

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 16 Feb, 2015 8:35 pm

Mark thanks for the link about the exhaust, I'll have to see if I can get the seller to send me a pic of the tailpipes. (And thanks for the comments Hylton and olddog.

Managed to find a little time over the last few days. One final vacuum of the interior, a final coat of hide food and in the seats and carpet go. It is beginning to look like a car again. I must admit, I am surprised at how aromatic the leather has become, the aroma of the hide is great!

Some pics so far.....

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So onto the door trims next. Plus, I still have to install the PSR window regulator as well. Still a bit to do.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by Giles » Mon 16 Feb, 2015 9:06 pm

What did you use to clean the leather Carl?

Regards,

Giles
1981 500SLC (Colour Black) Keeper car Lola
1975 280CE Signal Red Long term Project Ginger
1999 W163 ML430 MB Search & Rescue Vehicle Mary-Lou
1987 W126 420SEL Melb based long hauler Erwin

http://www.kudoscc.com.au

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 16 Feb, 2015 9:10 pm

Giles wrote:What did you use to clean the leather Carl?

Regards,

Giles
Giles, scroll down from the top of page 9:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=14980&start=200

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Re: 380 SE

Post by Giles » Tue 17 Feb, 2015 12:48 am

Thanks Carl, I've recently purchased a small kit from Leatherique.

I'm happy with the cleaning result but my leathers has some blemishes and will require some filling and re dying.

This will have to wait until I have enough spare time to remove the seats and do it correctly. For now a good clean and oil will have to suffice.

Keep up the excellent work as it's inspiring.

Giles
1981 500SLC (Colour Black) Keeper car Lola
1975 280CE Signal Red Long term Project Ginger
1999 W163 ML430 MB Search & Rescue Vehicle Mary-Lou
1987 W126 420SEL Melb based long hauler Erwin

http://www.kudoscc.com.au

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 18 Feb, 2015 7:38 pm

Giles wrote:Thanks Carl, I've recently purchased a small kit from Leatherique.

I'm happy with the cleaning result but my leathers has some blemishes and will require some filling and re dying.

This will have to wait until I have enough spare time to remove the seats and do it correctly. For now a good clean and oil will have to suffice.

Keep up the excellent work as it's inspiring.

Giles
Giles leatherique is a fantastic process but make sure you follow the instructions to the letter. Particularly with regards to the application of the colour, or dye. It doesn't work at all below about 18 degrees centigrade so make sure you choose a warm day.

With my seats, the dye was still mostly intact with just the usual creases. I think having a cream coloured interior makes this easier. Perhaps you may wish to just clean the leather first and see how you go, you may be surprised. As mentioned above, make sure it's a warm day, wipe the leather down with the cleaner and re-feed. Best to try on a fairly inconspicuous area first.

Most of the leather I see is simply poorly looked after. I don't know too many people that feed the seats annually, which is usually what's recommended.

Thanks for the compliment and good luck with your leather.

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