380 SE

1979-1991 280SE, 300SE, 300SEL, 380SE, 380SEL, 380SEC, 420SE, 420SEL, 420SEC, 500SE, 500SEL, 500SEC, 560SEL, 560SEC
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green380sec
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Re: 380 SE

Post by green380sec » Wed 26 Jun, 2013 7:54 pm

carl,
quick grip advanced is what your looking for, in a white and green tub. Cheers John

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DBW124
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Re: 380 SE

Post by DBW124 » Fri 28 Jun, 2013 9:50 am

Carl,

Love your work.

Spotted you on Bell St. The car looks great.
carlphoto.jpg
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W124 E 280

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 28 Jun, 2013 12:49 pm

green380sec wrote:carl,
quick grip advanced is what your looking for, in a white and green tub. Cheers John
John, thank you!!!

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 28 Jun, 2013 1:15 pm

DBW124 wrote:Carl,

Love your work.

Spotted you on Bell St. The car looks great.
carlphoto.jpg
Lol, you can't hide anywhere these days, was returning from the airport after dropping off a friend yesterday. Thanks for the comments, the car looks great......from 20 feet... In the picture (Gosh you were high, what were you in?) you can just see the bent rear bumper, the small indentation in the DSR quarter and you're too high to see the scrapes in lower section of the bumper, not to mention the bent exhaust system hanging too low! But it's work in progress, I'll hopefully have the funds to get into the remainder of the cosmetics in the coming months.

On another matter, I still have this infuriating warm start issue. When warm, the car fires (I assume on the cold start injector) and dies immediately. Further two seconds of cranking starts it every time. When cold, or hot, it starts beautifully. Had it not started after sitting for a few days I would have assumed a system pressure fault (I confess I have not taken pressure readings as yet) however under such conditions it starts very nicely. More work to do with the fuel injection it seems. Any ideas anyone?

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Fri 28 Jun, 2013 1:52 pm

carl888 wrote:
DBW124 wrote:Carl,

Love your work.

Spotted you on Bell St. The car looks great.
carlphoto.jpg
Lol, you can't hide anywhere these days, was returning from the airport after dropping off a friend yesterday. Thanks for the comments, the car looks great......from 20 feet... In the picture (Gosh you were high, what were you in?) you can just see the bent rear bumper, the small indentation in the DSR quarter and you're too high to see the scrapes in lower section of the bumper, not to mention the bent exhaust system hanging too low! But it's work in progress, I'll hopefully have the funds to get into the remainder of the cosmetics in the coming months.

On another matter, I still have this infuriating warm start issue. When warm, the car fires (I assume on the cold start injector) and dies immediately. Further two seconds of cranking starts it every time. When cold, or hot, it starts beautifully. Had it not started after sitting for a few days I would have assumed a system pressure fault (I confess I have not taken pressure readings as yet) however under such conditions it starts very nicely. More work to do with the fuel injection it seems. Any ideas anyone?
Have you replaced the fuel accumulator, located to the side of the fuel pumps at the rear?
Cheers
Kim
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 28 Jun, 2013 3:04 pm

KimB wrote:
carl888 wrote:
DBW124 wrote:
Have you replaced the fuel accumulator, located to the side of the fuel pumps at the rear?
Cheers
Kim
Hi Kim,

No, not replaced the fuel accumulator. What is odd, is that if the car sits for two weeks, when cranked, it fires instantaneously and runs nicely, same when hot provided it's restarted within 30 minutes. It's the warm start issue from 30 minutes to 5 hours after shut down that's the problem where it initially fires and then dies.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Fri 28 Jun, 2013 3:23 pm

Hi Kim,

No, not replaced the fuel accumulator. What is odd, is that if the car sits for two weeks, when cranked, it fires instantaneously and runs nicely, same when hot provided it's restarted within 30 minutes. It's the warm start issue from 30 minutes to 5 hours after shut down that's the problem where it initially fires and then dies.[/quote]

Unless some other Forum member disagrees, I wd check the fuel accumulator, as this was the same sort of problem we had with our 380SEC. Once the accumulator was replaced, no more hot start issues.
Cheers
Kim
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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DBW124
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Re: 380 SE

Post by DBW124 » Sat 29 Jun, 2013 7:50 am

Notice all 126s especially one looking so good. Re the "20 feet", my 124 is a bit the same, in my case one of the issues of being a a daily driver.

The plates were the first give alway, the second being the dent in the rear wheel arch.

Was driving the bus you snuck in front of at Melville Rd.
W124 E 280

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 01 Aug, 2013 4:43 pm

Was in Bell Street today in the 380, looking for the buses! Nothing to report with it so far, except I've cleaned the interior again, it's looking much better but still miles off the 280, annoyingly. I am saving up to attend to the bodywork scrapes but it's still a few months off I think before I can get seriously into it

Kim, I will replace the fuel accumulator next and thanks for the tip. Mileage now 110,062, put a bit on it over the last month, running fine apart from the aforementioned starting issue when warm.

More later, CJ

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DBW124
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Re: 380 SE

Post by DBW124 » Thu 01 Aug, 2013 10:59 pm

Was nowhere near Bell St today (or yesterday, thank god).
W124 E 280

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 04 Aug, 2013 1:07 pm

I have a water leak, one was fixable, a loose clamp at the base of the radiator. The other is a weep from the "T" piece at the top of the radiator. Question, if I cut the crimped hoses off the "T" piece, does that expose a standard barbed push on connection? Was thinking I could make up a nice hose myself with the existing "T" piece if that's the case. (And trying not to disable the car if you can't once I cut it open)!

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Also, I have these hairline cracks in the base of the header tank. They appear to be internal, but it doesn't look good for long term integrity of the tank. Anyone else seen this? Thanks for any information.

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 05 Sep, 2013 1:06 pm

Well, the header tank lasted about another week before the cracks finally gave way. Luckily I was in the garage, not on some drive. I also discovered a blister on the underside of the top radiator hose. And thanks to John Green, I finally secured a fourth 14" alloy that had luckily spent most of its life in the boot of a 380 SEC. Although the four alloys had minimal use, one had been fitted with an incorrect knock on weight that had marked the rim. I managed to re-paint just that section and although no great painter, after three coats of clear and one base coat I couldn't tell that section had been re-finished. The original tyres were the Michelin 205/70-14 XVS, funny to see one dated 1984 with almost full tread left.

The rear section of the boot had also been grounded, pushing upwards the spare wheel well. Again, with the careful use of a hammer and dolly, I was able to press the back to its (Almost) original profile. At a later stage I will also re-paint the exterior section of the wheel well as the underseal has been scraped in places.

I was also having issues with the pneumatic adjustment of the headlight aim on the drivers side. I decided to remove the lamp assembly which also gave good access to the lower radiator to lower header tank hose, which was earmarked for replacement. The snowball effect ensured that as the wheels come off, I may as well clean inside the wheel arches. They cleaned up very well, but what was surprising was the amount of hardened mud trapped behind the lip of the wheel arches at the rear. It really took some scrubbing to remove this build up. Some pics:

It's odd how sad a car looks with one of its eyes missing!

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One of the original spares:

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I noticed a green sticker on the rims, for Porsches, this indicates the highest part of the rim, I wonder what this means in Mercedes-Benz speak? Does anyone know? I left the stickers on. Additionally, notice how the original rubber valve stem has discoloured the rim in its immediate vicinity. All four rims show this discolouration. Finally a picture of an original Mercedes-Benz style weight, held on by the correct powder coated clamp so as not to damage the wheel. I cringe when I see a "Normal" weight just bashed on the wheel with the resultant damage.

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A selections of stampings found on the back of one of the wheels, quite a few!

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The four very nice condition rims all cleaned up, marks painted, new stems fitted and the Michelin XWX tyres going on:

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I don't like the knock on weights, in fact there is a small ridge on the inside of the rim when you can place adhesive weights easily. The only issue is the weights that may need to placed on the inside of the rim, even a slimline weight will rub against the brake backing plate. You can see the rub mark in the weight in the following picture:

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The solution is to be a little creative with the wheel balancer. Just use the machines data arm to tell it that the rim is about 5 1/2" wide not 6 1/2" and you can place the weight an inch further in therefore clearing the backing plate.

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And a nice result. It's good practice to rotate the wheel on the balancer hub 180 degrees to double check that the wheel is sitting on the shaft correctly, in this case, the wheels and tyres had immesureable run-out which is a relief and balanced very nicely:

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Ready to go!

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Once the wheels were off, it was time to have a look at the wheel arches. It's funny how little swipes of paint applied at the factory mysteriously appear when you clean in here! I used a mixture of plain water and CT18 truckwash with a lot of elbow grease. A few pictures before and after.

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I also checked the torque of the bolts securing the steering box to the rail. I see this is a service item but I wonder if it's actually done? In this case, the bolts were tight:

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A case of "Whilst your in there" eventuated, so I cleaned the engine and the area behind the RHS headlamp assembly:

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Funny to see a date stamp on the RH bonnet latch, I don't see two many such stampings on these parts:

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Now on to the leaky coolant system, new header tank, hoses (Except the one at the back of the thermostat housing as it has been done before) and I left the heater hoses at the back of the block. They looked good but will do them at the next coolant change in three years time.

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The hoses were fine, but the lower outlet for the header tank fouled the fan resistor network and ballast resistor assembly:

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The only way to get it to fit was the make a small stand off for the above mentioned assembly so that the lower house would clear:

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It's not quite the solution I had in mind (I would have preferred it to fit!!) but I had no alternative. The part number of the tank is A 126 500 1549 which unless I'm mistaken should be correct. The small plug on the right side of the photograph of the tank is the sealing kit one receives in the package to cover the coolant level sender for the series II W126. The series I cars do not have this feature.

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I managed to find the correct stickers for the radiator fan shroud and the header tank. With the new design of the header tank with its "Criss cross" pattern, the sticker doesn't fit. The best location i thought was on the top of the fuse box. Sadly, the fan shroud sticker pictured bottom left and damaged was missing and by chance I found it under the brake master cylinder. I was going to stick it together and fit it to the fan shroud when suddenly a gust of wind blew it away and no it's no where to be seen! Does anyone have a spare, the part number is 000 584 1340, it is no longer available apparently. Sigh! (Although the replacement sticker carries this fan cover information you'll notice)

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I couldn't work out what was wrong with the headlight except to say it appeared the level adjustment mechanism had become detached from the vacuum unit inside the housing. I have not had a chance to test it yet. It's amazing what a difference cleaning the glass and reflectors makes. Of course, now I notice the passenger side is slightly foggy!

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This was the boot as I found it:

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Some mindless violence and it's sort of pressed back into shape! I have a new grommet for the base and will paint the underside as previously mentioned.

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So almost back together now:

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The next step it so replace the indicator lenses after cleaning, adjust the headlight aim and check the vacuum aim adjustment. I will flush the cooling system and pressure test it. I'll need to do some work in the coming week, but the next item on the list is to remove all the door trims and have the paintless dent repair chappie to go over the entire car. Then removal of the plastic skirts along with the front and rear bars for repair and painting. Quite a bit more still to go.

Regards,

Carl.

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ansteadeh
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380 SE

Post by ansteadeh » Thu 05 Sep, 2013 1:46 pm

Excellent job mate!!

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 05 Sep, 2013 2:31 pm

ansteadeh wrote:Excellent job mate!!
Thanks, hardly a viable economic process but none the less, it's a worthwhile endeavor I believe as the car was very close to heading to Simsmetal.

All back together now, will see if I can test and flush the cooling system over the weekend.

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 07 Sep, 2013 12:18 pm

I had this intermittent ABS engagement at parking speeds. Whilst the wheels were off, I removed the ABS sensors and cleaned them. I was surprised how much build up there was on the end of the sensors. Not a great picture but here is the sensor after removal from the hub. You do have to be very careful as the locating part (Plastic) appears as if it would fracture very easily. I applied some rost-off to the unit and it came out slowly, the body of the sender is almost an interference fit in the hub. Note the "O" ring at the end. I cleaned it and applied some rubber grease and the sender fitted easily back into the hub. I then tested the car just in the driveway and it appears that the issue may be resolved. When I change the differential oil, I will inspect the sensor in the differential as well.

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I've just flushed the cooling system. Including removal of the radiator drain plug and the two engine block drain plugs. I have some radiator flush, however, I noticed whilst the claim was that it was safe for aluminium engines, it contained potassium hydroxide. My laymans understanding of chemistry tell me that this is not safe for aluminium, unless perhaps the content is so weak to be of no consequence. Would anyone care to comment? I decided not to use it.

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I drained the radiator and block then filled the engine with pain water, ran it up to temperature then allowed it to cool. I then drained the radiator and block again, but this time placed the garden hose in the various drain holes and flushed the system for about 30 minutes. I could not detect any sediment or nasties being expelled so it was either clean to begin with, or nothing was dislodged!




Draining the block is a little tricky because the drain holes (One per side) are tucked up under the mainfold:

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Note, the drain holes are the 6mm INHEX screws as pictured above at the top of the frame. NOT the 17mm hex nuts at the bottom, they support the three middle bearing caps.




I suspect overkill, but since the header tank is new, it may well show off the genuine coolant:

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Back to work this weekend, more later.

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Giles
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Re: 380 SE

Post by Giles » Sat 07 Sep, 2013 12:54 pm

Carl, you the most fastidious enthusiast I have ever come across. Keep up the good work, it's inspirational. BTW there are some good medications available today for your excessive, compulsive maintainance behaviour, but please don't take them. Just keep posting your work.

Regards,

Giles
1981 500SLC (Colour Black) Keeper car Lola
1975 280CE Signal Red Long term Project Ginger
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1987 W126 420SEL Melb based long hauler Erwin

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Sat 07 Sep, 2013 3:25 pm

Bravo Carl! You're one in a million!
Cheers
Kim
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 08 Sep, 2013 1:36 pm

Thank you gentlemen. The work continues.

The car is due for some maintenance being at 110,000 kms so although an oil change is early, I'll do it to bring the schedule into line. First job was to change the brake fluid however, since that was last done a little over a year ago. I've been using this product from Penrite recently, it's a 600 degree F. brake fluid and I can't believe the price. It's about $25/500 Ml. which is extremely good value next to Castrol SRF or AP550/600 at over 5 times the price. Having a vacuum bleeder makes such work fast and mess free, and you can do it on your own.

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I decided not to change the engine oil just yet, but instead change the fuel filter and the fuel accumulator (Thanks to kim for the suggestion re: the accumulator). Of course the snowball effect took a strong hold....

Rather than change the filter and accumulator in situ, I decided to remove the whole assembly:

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There might be some more cleaning to do around here!

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Ready with the new parts:

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I threw a tantrum with the assembly, it was filthy. I plugged the open lines and threw it into the parts washer. It came up a little better.

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1984 dated fuel hose, which is to be expected being a 1985 car:

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And so further investigation revealed this, two hoses, one at the rear of the accumulator to the fuel supply line and one at the pump intake:

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Sigh, luckily I had both hoses new and re-assembled the unit with the new filter, copper sealing washers, clamps and fuel accumulator. The bracket itself still looked grotty, the plating had tarnished somewhat. I toyed with the idea of re-plating it, but decided I wanted the car finished this year, not in 2017:

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The hoses looked fine from the outside, and in fact were quite pliable, but inside was a different story. So the problem now is that I really have to do the remaining hoses, two at the bottom of the tank:

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And the line with the fixed ends that runs from the outlet of the fuel filter to the solid steel line at the rear of the car:

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They may both be fine of course, but I can't cut them in half to check! The resultant labour component if I have to do these remaining hoses at a later date not to mention the safety aspect of having the lines fresh entails that I do the lot now. I also noticed (Not pictured) that the return vapour lines from the charcoal canister to the tank at the rear were also cracked so they will be done as well.

Won't be able to get near it for a week or so but its getting there, somewhat slowly.

CJ

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ansteadeh
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380 SE

Post by ansteadeh » Sun 08 Sep, 2013 4:18 pm

Very good boy!

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extermin8tor
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Re: 380 SE

Post by extermin8tor » Sun 08 Sep, 2013 11:35 pm

Interesting... I did the fuel acumulator on my 380, and it still has the symptoms of fuel vaporisation causing starting problems.

I didn't give the hoses a real good check, they looked uncracked from the outside.

I am going to take a look at mine tommorow morning...

How are you going to replace them? Genuine parts? Just rubber fuel lines from Automotive supply store???

What a pain in the bum, just when I thought I fixed everything...
Leaky 1983 380SE W126

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 09 Sep, 2013 3:47 pm

extermin8tor wrote:Interesting... I did the fuel acumulator on my 380, and it still has the symptoms of fuel vaporisation causing starting problems.

I didn't give the hoses a real good check, they looked uncracked from the outside.

I am going to take a look at mine tommorow morning...

How are you going to replace them? Genuine parts? Just rubber fuel lines from Automotive supply store???

What a pain in the bum, just when I thought I fixed everything...
That's annoying about the accumulator on your 380 SE. When I removed mine, a lot of fuel ran out from the vent line so I'm hoping it had a perforated diaphragm. And its replacement cures the hot/warm starting issue! If it doesn't, I'll just blame kim lol. We will see. The problem with the hoses is it's really difficult to tell the condition internally without removal. I tend to err on the side of caution with any safety related items, fuel system, brakes, tyres, steering. I'd rather have that part all sorted and worry about the cosmetics later. Since I've removed the assembly, it makes sense in my case to replace them.

I do use genuine products if possible. However bear in mind that much of the car, Mercedes-Benz doesn't make, Bosch products for example. With regards to the fuel system, I've found most of the Mercedes-Benz fuel hoses are supplied to them by Coeline/Cohnen. I will use the those products for the tank hoses, they have screw threads crimped onto them anyway which precludes just changing the hose. However the hose I already had in stock for the line between the damper and pump and accumulator vent was supplied by Wuerth Germany. Just make sure if you are replacing hoses with aftermarket, make sure it is SAE100 compliant, anything with that certification is suitable for petroleum.

The problem with these cars now is they are just plain old. It might have been a Mercedes and have been fitted with quality products new but any car that's 30 years old with its original hoses is probably going to show some deterioration. Indifferent and at times basic maintenance from a string of past owners only leaves more pieces to pick up when we get to them :) Do it once, do it right!
Last edited by carl888 on Mon 09 Sep, 2013 3:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 09 Sep, 2013 3:49 pm

ansteadeh wrote:Very good boy!
Thanks, like to come over and finish it off for me?

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 09 Sep, 2013 4:32 pm

I just dug out some pictures of the fuel hoses I replaced on my 1974 W116. I performed this work in 2009 so the car was then 35 years old. I am guessing that the right time to do the hoses is before 30 years based on what I've found. The 380 SE is 28 years old being a 1985 car and I think it's time to do them now. The W116 at 35 years was a time bomb, see below for some pics of the original hoses as I found them:

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Of course, we haven't discussed the engine bay fuel hoses. In theory at least, these should suffer the effects of age and use far more readily due to heat cycling from the engine bay. As opposed to the fuel tank hoses under the relatively cool and protected rear area of the fuel tank.

Having just had a look at mine in the engine bay, they do appear, sadly, somewhat hard and inflexible. They are made by Conti (Continental) and from the fuel distributor (Supply and return) on the LHS they run as per the pictures to the first firewall where they are crimped to a steel line then continue inboard of the passenger side chassis rail downwards and terminate to a screw fitting under the passenger side footwell. Some pics:

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The other line in the last picture joined by a traditional hose is the vent line.

For the engine bay fuel hoses, list price from Mercedes-Benz is $362 for the supply line and $192 for the return, I just checked, yikes! Let's see what John G can do.

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 11 Sep, 2013 11:33 am

The engine bay fuel lines are a bit over half price in the USA compared to dealer list here not including freight, just did some searching whilst waiting for MB Spares to get back to me:

http://www.mbpartsworld.com/showAssembl ... =fuel+line

$170 and $92 USD + Freight + Currency conversion.

Some items are very competitive here, the tank strainer for example is about the same price here as the USA. There seems no rhyme nor reason to the MBA pricing.

On another matter, I decided to cut open the old leaky coolant hose "T" piece from the upper header tank/radiator/thermostat housing to see if it was re-useable. It is, as long as you don't mind using hose clamps on it rather than the original crimp (I don't have access to a crimping machine, but perhaps it could be done through Enzed or Pirtek)? Too late for me unfortunately, I already bought a new one.

Some pics:

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And, a little parcel arrived this morning, the hoses for the rear:

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It will be a few days before I can install them.

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 19 Dec, 2013 10:13 pm

Well, I haven't posted anything for a while, been busy with other more urgent tasks. Had a good go about a month back and here are the results. I also hope to be able to continue over the Christmas period.

I attended a MBCV workshop day at Chris Stewart's and managed to find these goodies. Of particular interest is the original style oil cap (BTW, if anyone finds one of these, make sure you clean the crud out of the spring mechanism behind the tangs, this one was filthy) and also the alloy wheel spare tag that lives in the spare wheel well. Chris had a new headlight aim switch and the usual assorted springs and clips which one always needs plus the bits for my damaged rear door :)

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I decided to throw some decent plugs in it, some Beru UXT2, can't say I notice the difference over the NGK BP6ES that came out of it.

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My struggle with the remains of the EGR has been resolved. On the LS side of the engine the EGR valve was finally relegated to the shelf thanks to the sump plug from a BMW K100 fitting the manifold beautifully. 18mm X 1.5mm thread.

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It's very nice to see how uncluttered the engine bay looks with all that rubbish off. Not to mention the correct style oil cap!

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I was surprised how difficult it was to remove the M8 screws that affix the heat shields to the manifolds. They were particularly rusty and I seriously thought I may run the risk of snapping off the screw heads. Luckily, some localised heat and plenty of Rost Off encouraged them off. Common sense prevailed and instead of replacing them with the same mild steel type, I fitted the same screws but in 304 stainless and lubricating the threads with nickel. I'll have to hide from the originality Police!

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At Chris' I found a nice boot lid trim, mine was damaged. Of course, things snowball, so off came the badges for a clean.

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Horror of horrors, I found some surface corrosion under the master cylinder when looking at the drivers side bonnet hinge. The only reason I detected it is because the seam sealant appeared to be bubbly. It appeared to have been applied slightly too thin in one area allowing water ingress. Luckily, it was only surface, and I treated the area with rust converter then applied a liberal dose of seam sealant, being careful not to block the drain hole nearby. The pictures should be self explanatory.

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And the old sealant that just flaked off when I started probing around:

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And the treatment, rust converter, wait a day, then the sealant:

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Here is something of which to be very careful. Make sure your battery has a breather hose, that doesn't exit into the tray (Even wondered why you see so many rusty W126 battery trays?). Most batteries should have two breather ports, one in each end. They are connected and you should just blank off the port on the side you don't use. In the breather kit, you should have a right angle adapter, the hose, and a plug for the port you won't be using. The pics should explain it.

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Back to the spare wheel well area, it was dented as pictured in a previous post.

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And, all happily back together with the correct 205/70-14 XWX spare.

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You may recall the wheel issue, where I managed to source four "Spare" wheels to replace the kerbed originals. It ended up being very cost effective compared to painting (Which to do properly, is very expensive). However I still needed a decent fifth wheel for the spare. So I decided to paint one of the the originals myself.................with a spray can! Here we go....7 coats of base silver and 5 of clear. The match is alarmingly close. The base coat has a little too much metal and you can see it with the wheels side by side, but as a spare, it will do until I turn up an unused spare.

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I let the rim cure in the sun for a week before I fitted the tyre. No knock on weights of course.


I accept that much of this displays all the hallmarks of OCD to most and there is no rational reason to spend time resurrecting such a clinically uninteresting vehicle. However I like to do things to the best of my ability and despite the time and the cost, I believe it to be a noble endevour. Having said that, if there was only one job that I would perform apart from regular maintenance, I would strongly advise anyone to check the fuel hoses. Not just on a Mercedes-Benz of this age, but any car of this age. The following should be self explanatory. Part two of the fuel hoses...

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And the new hose going on. The first two images is the line from the charcoal canister.

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Whilst fitting the new tyres and rims, I noticed the rear anti-roll bar links were worn. Small somewhat feeble looking plastic links, they seem to do the job but time for replacement. It appears the rubber gaiters over the ball joints perish exposing the innards to the ingress of contaminants. They would wear very quickly after that I imagine.

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The car was sitting for 6 weeks whilst I was working on other projects. One morning, this was the sight that greeted me! The leak is from the automatic transmission pan seal. It's on my job list.

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As the front was off the ground, I adjusted the steering box. Initially it looked very difficult to adjust, but with a 19mm ring spanner and a 1/4" drive 6mm INHEX between the head and the manifold it was done.

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One thing that was bugging me was the bent drivers side bonnet hinge (I bent it accidentally on the hoist you may recall). I toyed with the idea of straightening it but decided to source another from a wrecker as it was riveted together and the chance of getting it straight somewhat remote. Of course the odds of finding an excellent condition W126 Diamond Blue 355 drivers side hinge was rather low, or so I thought. A friend suggested I try "Pick-a-part". So I headed off to Campbellfield armed with a toolbox, a hat and gloves.

For those unaware of this concept, you simply pull off the parts you need yourself as no one is there to help you (After paying $1:00 entry fee) and go for your life. Pass the parts past the cashier on the way out and that's it! This is the scene that greeted me upon entry, somewhat apocalyptic with a definite Mad Max bent.

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In the "European" section, I was surprised to find a Diamond Blue 355 380 SEL! And so I set to work.

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Well, four hours later I had a bonnet hinge, an alloy wheel for the W123, assorted clips and clamps and amazingly, an untorn drivers side "B" pillar trim in cream 275, joy of joys!

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Fitting the hinge was easier than I thought (But it helps if someone can hold the bonnet!). The bent hinge is pictured below, you can see the curve on the pantograph arm. This manifested itself by pulling the bonnet too low in relation to the front fender. Very annoying, since I bent it myself.

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Cleaned up and lubricated hinge ready to go on.

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I noticed when I bought the car that someone had replaced the drivers side front wing and fitted and incorrect rear bonnet pin. Pick-a-Part to the rescue! The advantage of these items of course is that they are already painted the correct colour.

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Another thing I noticed is how the black paint under the bonnet is applied after the hinges are fitted. When the clips are removed, you can see the shadow from the clip.

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Having a look inside the front wing whilst tightening the hinge screws I noticed that when it was replaced (The front wing that is) no cavity wax was applied to this new part. I checked in the workshop and it indeed refers to the application of cavity wax in the event of repairs. This repair is obviously of poor quality so I will address this issue shortly.

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This concludes the installment for this evening.

Happy Christmas everyone,

CJ

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Re: 380 SE

Post by DBW124 » Fri 20 Dec, 2013 9:52 am

Wish you'd stop posting. Makes me feel guilty :laughing6: :laughing6: :laughing6: .

And on the off-chance I might get off my butt someday, where did you get the Wurth paint from for your wheels?

Merry Christmas to you.

Adrian
W124 E 280

KimB
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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Fri 20 Dec, 2013 10:22 am

Keep posting Carl. You are an inspiration to all us W126 owners!
Cheers
Kim
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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 20 Dec, 2013 4:37 pm

DBW124 wrote:Wish you'd stop posting. Makes me feel guilty :laughing6: :laughing6: :laughing6: .

And on the off-chance I might get off my butt someday, where did you get the Wurth paint from for your wheels?

Merry Christmas to you.

Adrian
Adrian.......Wurth! I have an account with them, but anyone can buy direct from their trade counters:

http://www.wurth.com.au/

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 20 Dec, 2013 4:42 pm

And thanks Kim, getting there.

What I didn't mention in the section re: wheel painting, was the preparation. I turned the wheel on the tyre changer and used a round file to take the curb rash off the rim outer. I then rubbed the wheel down with 1200 wet and dry, washed it in brake cleaner and left it to dry. Blasted the wheel with compressed air and painted it inside and out.

The wheel did come up very nicely and I admit I was surprised how well it came up but the process was quite time consuming, a few hours for one wheel. Like all paint jobs, it's all in the preparation, the painting itself took only 20 mins or so.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 10 Jan, 2014 10:42 pm

Just completed probably the most time consuming, frustrating and tricky job of the resurrection of this hopefully once pitiful vehicle. The replacement of the fuel lines from to the underside of the car to the fuel distributor. The process sounds straightforward. However the problem was that the new lines did not quite follow the same profile as the old ones. Meaning I had to install them, mark where they needed to be bent, remove and bend, then re-install. Each line could not be bent in one go, I had to remove them multiple times, for each one (Supply and return). For some reason, even following the profile of the old lines didn't quite work. I even found the utterance of some choice language failed to provide the necessary relief. In all, about 8 hours labour, grrrr. Still, it's done, and the new lines are particularly pliable compared to the old ones. Being fussy, you could complain the zinc chromate finish is not as nice as the original yellow chromate however I can live with that...

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Late last year I attended a MBCV swap meeting and of course didn't intend to buy anything. I found a N.O.S. 3.27:1 differential in the box for sale. What caught my eye was the 'Limited Slip" tag on the rear. My father bought a new 380 SEL in 1983 and ordered it with a LSD. When he traded the car three years later, the salesman at Lanes Motors South Melbourne told him he was the only nutter to have ordered a 380 of any description with the LSD option. Dad of course poked fun at my car as it didn't have an LSD. So of course I took it around to show him. Fitting this unit will not be a priority, but I know it's there. Of course, I bought some other things I didn't need. I can sort of justify the mirror purchase as they cost $20 each, and mine both need paining as the silver has peeled off.

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That will do for today.

CJ.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Sat 11 Jan, 2014 11:59 am

Great!
Y'all planning to put on stainless headers later?
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 13 Jan, 2014 7:56 pm

KimB wrote:Great!
Y'all planning to put on stainless headers later?
No, can't see the point at all. On a race car maybe, but then I'd be trying for titanium I think. If they ever have to come off, I would certainly ceramic coat the manifolds however. It's a great way to reduce under bonnet temperatures. I've just had some done for the 280 SE, they look like this:

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I went for nice drive yesterday, up to Menzies Creek for lunch. The car performed well, however I must get the air conditioning going. Job number 457!

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Back to business....some pics of Frank Ws one owner 380 SE with 105,000 kms from the MBCV Christmas Party late last year. He purchased this car new and ordered it in a striking colour scheme. Manganese brown (480) with light brown velour (974) and no sunroof. It's a really beautiful car and won best interior at the last MBCV concours (Or maybe the year before??).

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My battle continues with the centre console coin tray. I purchased another however it was not that great. It's often startling how some small items can get away from you time wise. I re-stuck the trim and although in the correct trim colour (275, cream) it was somewhat battle scared and stained. Unusable.......I decided to enlist the help of Billy from Leather Creations in Richmond, Melbourne. He's a genius with colouring vinyl and leather, along with leather restoration itself. I can thoroughly recommend his work and have provided his details. Today he recoloured the tray in the base coat, tomorrow will be a final colour check and if a match, he will coat it with a matte clear. We will see. The pics show the tray after cleaning, a somewhat Heath Robinson device concocted by myself to keep the tray flat whilst the adhesive was doing its work, Billy applying the colour and finally a colour check with the trim of the car.

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Whilst the tray was being attended to, I decided to have a bit of a play with some cleaning materials. Have a look at the results of using this vinyl cleaner named "Dissol" It's amazing! Can you see the cleaned section of the trim? And I'd cleaned it with a decent cloth and soapy water when I bought the car. Looks like I'll have to go over the whole inside.

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Over the next few weeks I won't be able to get too close to the 380, I need to do some work. More later.

CJ.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by Greg in Oz » Mon 13 Jan, 2014 10:37 pm

carl888 wrote:...Back to business....some pics of Frank Ws one owner 380 SE with 105,000 kms from the MBCV Christmas Party late last year. He purchased this car new and ordered it in a striking colour scheme. Manganese brown (480) with light brown velour (974) and no sunroof. It's a really beautiful car and won best interior at the last MBCV concours (Or maybe the year before??).

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Dark metallic browns such as Manganese Brown and Milan Brown suited models such as the 126, 116, 107 and others of that era and earlier well. The dark brown highlights the brightwork and chrome of the earlier models nicely. Contrast the dark brown with a tan or cream interior and you have a stunning looking car.
107023 - 350SLC: 1973, 3sp auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold July 2012 after 29 years ownership)
107026 - 500SLC: 1981, 4sp auto, thistle green, green velour
124090 - 300TE: 1990, 4sp auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex
124090 - 300TE: 1992, 4sp auto, malachite (spruce green), black MBtex
201024 - 190E-2.0: 1985, 5sp manual, black, black MBtex
201028 - 190E-2.3 Sportline: 1990, 5sp manual, arctic white, blue leather
201028 - 190E-2.3: 1992, 4sp auto, blueblack, grey MBtex
201028 - 190E-2.3 Sportline: 1990, 4sp auto, signal red, black cloth (parts car)
201034 - 190E-2.3-16 Cosworth: 1985, 5sp manual, blueblack, black leather
YG2S8 - Mini Clubman GT: 1972, 4sp manual, blue, parchment vinyl (my first car which I still own)

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Tue 14 Jan, 2014 10:53 am

QUOTE:"I decided to have a bit of a play with some cleaning materials. Have a look at the results of using this vinyl cleaner named "Dissol" It's amazing! Can you see the cleaned section of the trim? And I'd cleaned it with a decent cloth and soapy water when I bought the car. Looks like I'll have to go over the whole inside."

Carl, We have used soapy water, Jif and Wondersoap on the vinyl in our W126 cars. But the result was never as good as the one you got with Dissol. So our local Autobarn has some a we are going to buy it and give it a try! :notworthy:

Cheers
Kim
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Re: 380 SE

Post by markb » Tue 14 Jan, 2014 11:00 am

Dissol is a great reminder of my youth in the '70's as my dad cleaned his car with it religiously..

Unfortunately I gave some to my wife last week(in lieu of my more expensive Meguires) to clean our Subaru, but the smell in a modern car is no where as romantic as my memories :Doh:
Current Fleet
1985 C123 280CE Midnight Blue with blue MB Tex (240k klms, Daily Driver 2010- )
Past Benzes:
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 White (2002-2003 project)
1971 W108 280SE 3.5 White (1999-2006 Unmolested original & sadly missed)
1987 S124 230TE Diamond Blue (2002-2007 Family cruiser)
1983 W126 280SE Champagne 106k Klms (Custodian in 2013)
1969 W113 280SL Champagne (Custodian in 2000)
1988 W124 300E Diamond Blue (2016 project)

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 14 Jan, 2014 2:16 pm

KimB wrote:QUOTE:"I decided to have a bit of a play with some cleaning materials. Have a look at the results of using this vinyl cleaner named "Dissol" It's amazing! Can you see the cleaned section of the trim? And I'd cleaned it with a decent cloth and soapy water when I bought the car. Looks like I'll have to go over the whole inside."

Carl, We have used soapy water, Jif and Wondersoap on the vinyl in our W126 cars. But the result was never as good as the one you got with Dissol. So our local Autobarn has some a we are going to buy it and give it a try! :notworthy:

Cheers
Kim
Be warned, it's the best way to tie up a week cleaning!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 14 Jan, 2014 2:17 pm

markb wrote:Dissol is a great reminder of my youth in the '70's as my dad cleaned his car with it religiously..

Unfortunately I gave some to my wife last week(in lieu of my more expensive Meguires) to clean our Subaru, but the smell in a modern car is no where as romantic as my memories :Doh:
LOL :)

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Tue 14 Jan, 2014 4:01 pm

carl888 wrote:
KimB wrote:QUOTE:"I decided to have a bit of a play with some cleaning materials. Have a look at the results of using this vinyl cleaner named "Dissol" It's amazing! Can you see the cleaned section of the trim? And I'd cleaned it with a decent cloth and soapy water when I bought the car. Looks like I'll have to go over the whole inside."

Carl, We have used soapy water, Jif and Wondersoap on the vinyl in our W126 cars. But the result was never as good as the one you got with Dissol. So our local Autobarn has some a we are going to buy it and give it a try! :notworthy:

Cheers
Kim
Be warned, it's the best way to tie up a week cleaning!
Hee hee! It's not me but the other half who is keen to try it. I'll hitch up my hammock so that I can say: "Hey....missed a bit!"
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 16 Jan, 2014 10:13 pm

Just one pic today, picked up the tray from Billy after having its final coat of matte clear, looks great!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 19 Feb, 2014 4:23 pm

Here we go, starting on the interior clean up, as opposed to the earlier repairs. It's funny how such a small item that was rather shabby (The coin tray) can dramatically lift the interior. Some pics of the old and new tray and the new tray after installation:

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The next job is to clean the leather properly. Seats coming out, beginning with the rear:

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My helper Paul at work!

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The process is quite time consuming. Firstly, cleaning the leather is quite slow and laborious. Particularly in this case, as I don't think it had been cleaned before. However, slowly the leather is coming back to life. The Connolly Hide Food has been applied generously and left to soak into the hides over the past week. I'll give it another go in a week or so. No rush.

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Particularly disappointing is the damage to the drivers side rear door trim (The electric window is inoperative) that is clearly the result of a ham fisted mechanic. Whoever performed the 'Repair" couldn't even remove the liner in one piece. Thanks to my friend Robert, his 500 SE donated the required fasteners and trim items.

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This was the fastener used to affix the centre section of the arm rest to the door trim...........I think it's a roofing fastener......

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Here is the lower section of the window regulator, broken away from the slider in the base of the window.

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It's a little tricky to replace, the new part is below, you need to grind off the head of the slider, replace it with the new part and pein the head over the regulator arm. It's a little Heath Robinson-ish.....not sure why a simple plastic bearing with a captive nut on the slider would not have been better?

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On another matter, I was disappointed to see more damage to the timber work. It appears a lever of sorts has been used to remove the electric window switch and in the process, cracking the veneer on the drivers side rear capping. I hadn't noticed until I took the trim off. Anyone have a spare in walnut in perfect condition?

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The process now is to remove the front seats and clean and feed the leather. Clean the carpets properly and perhaps even give the headlining a wipe with Dissol! When the front seats are out, I'll replace the drivers side "B" pillar trim, it's torn. Finally, I'll remove the other three door trims and clean them and check the window regulators. A secondary benefit of this is to gain access to the inner doors so that I can have some paintless dent removal performed. More later.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 19 Feb, 2014 4:29 pm

This is why the window wouldn't operate, the slider is split in two.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 19 Feb, 2014 8:12 pm

A quickie, thought I'd be smart and change the "V" belts as a precautionary measure this evening. I read the sizes straight out of the owners manual, then checked in the workshop manual. I couldn't read the sizes from the belts that were fitted.

No problem with the water pump/power steering and air conditioning compressor, however, the alternator belt has caused a problem. In the owners manual, the size for the alternator belt is quoted as a 9.5 X 990mm. The WSM also quotes this size, however, it lists the pre-energy concept M116.961 engine as a 9.5 X 950. The post 1981 to 1985 M116.963 (As fitted to my 1985 car) coincides with the owners manual as a 9.5 X 990.

Imagine my rage when I pulled the belt off and discovered it's a 9.5 X 950, as what should be on the earlier M116.961 engine!

Anyone else has this problem?

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Thu 20 Feb, 2014 9:53 am

Hi Carl,

Re the broken window slider plastic piece. This is a piece of shite. Mercedes engineers must have been on another planet when they designed this crap. Previously I have replaced my broken sliders with an identical one like you have. However, even these have broken again.

Anyway I ordered in some of the solid one piece slider pieces from Mercedessource in the States. Here is a link on their site:
https://mercedessource.com/store/search ... tegory=All

The problem with the original white plastic sliders is that they come in two pieces and are prone to fail. The solid one piece sliders should last for years.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Kim
PS It would be good if MB Spares could do a deal with Mercedessource and stock them here!
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Re: 380 SE

Post by AMG » Fri 21 Feb, 2014 3:39 am

Most belts are 10x or 11x these days. They sit a little higher in the pulley and grip a lot better.
Get genuine conti belts if you can they are the quietest and longest lasting by a good margin in my experience.


.->-.
`-<-' Transmitted on 100% recycled electrons
Current:
1987 560SL 4sp. auto Signalrot "Stella"
1987 190E 2.3-16 5sp. man. Blauschwarz "Hermann"
1992 300CE-24 6sp. man. Perlblau / Iceblau "Gretel"
1992 Range Rover Classic 4sp auto Ardennes Green "Oswald"
2012 E63 AMG Speedshift MCT Diamantweiß "Klaus"
Previous:
1986 560SEL Anthracitgrau "Schultz" - In Mercedes Heaven
1987 190E 2.6 4sp. auto Signalrot "Sabine" - which now resides/owns Andrew M's Garage
1972 350SLC Astralsilber "Lurch" - now in the loving care of Craig B
1989 2.5-16 Blauschwarz 4sp. auto (parted) formerly owned by Derek/Hasan.
2012 Renault Sport Megane RS265 Trophy 8:08 6 sp. man. Liquid Yellow "Jean Rédélé"

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 21 Feb, 2014 6:41 pm

Kim...thanks for the tip. I did see the uprated window sliders and was tempted....however I've not broken one before and I noticed that the friction of that affected window is greater than the others. So I'm wondering if the issue is not the slider, but rather too much leverage required to open it? The fastening method I agree is poor, a rivet surely has no place in this position? We will see I suppose. I've not broken one before, but I notice in the documents that came with the car, there is a receipt for a previous repair to that faulty window regulator. I will check the runners before assembly to see if I can ease the increased friction over the other windows.

Joe...interesting, the replacement Conti belts I bought are marked 10mm, but are in fact, identical in width to the OEM Conti belts I removed marked 9.5mm. Perhaps they changed the way they measured the width :) In any case, I bought a 10 X 960 belt to replace the 10 X 990 belt and it fits a treat. I am still confused at to why the owners manual and WSM state it should be a 990.

Some pics, the new belts (On the right of the first image are four new exhaust clamps, more about that later).

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Here are the original belts for the water pump/power steering pump, and predictably, the 13mm hex nuts that hold the power steering pump to the bracket were burred. When I undid them, the upper stud backed out of the bracket as well. Sigh, what's wrong with these people over tightening things! Notice the belt marked 9.5mm

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After replacement, new belts and hex nuts on the pump.

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Another little win today, I've been chasing one of these for ages. A Becker 848, only made for two years apparently before being replaced by a stacker for the W140. Was standard on the late 560s only. Undecided whether to fit, but not a priority at this stage.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by bahnstormer109 » Fri 21 Feb, 2014 10:21 pm

How have I not seen this thread before??

This is awesome, I'm so glad you are doing this, this is how all Benzes should be treated in a perfect world. It's given me a lot of inspiration.

Do you have the amp for Becker CD player? Where in the car would you mount the amp if you were to install it? In the boot behind the right rear wheel is where they went officially, how hard is it to retrofit an amp here?
Paolo
Brisbane

72 300SEL 3.5
82 380SEL
84 280CE
86 560SEL
86 230TE
A good Benz these days is hard to find, so please be gentle with this Benz of mine.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 23 Feb, 2014 6:44 pm

Paolo,

I do not have the amplifier for the Becker 868 sadly. And I imagine it would be somewhat hard to find too! But I'm a patient man, and one will turn up eventually.

I am not aware of any thermal ventilation requirements for the amplifier, and I would therefore probably put the amplifier under the glovebox, there seems to be room there. I'm not that partial having to run two sets of wires to the boot, then forward again for the front loudspeakers.

I did manage to find an instruction book however, so I can work out what is missing!

http://www.koenigs-klassik-radios.de/en ... 8/a-55065/

I wonder if there is a demonstration CD like there is with the cassette version?

I see there is also a Becker 865, I wonder what the difference is?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Becker-Mexico-Au ... 27dd45e643

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 07 Mar, 2014 8:57 pm

The search for the Becker amplifier continues, however the instruction book at least turned up. I saw a couple of CD players, both the 868 and 858 offered on ebay but they were listed without the amplifier.

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Moving on to the interior...not quite sure where to start. The seats are out, a few more leather feeding sessions to go and some work to the interior, gosh it was really grotty. Funny how a car interior seems so much more expansive with the seats removed!

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Time to get stuck into the carpet. I saw a demonstration of the Tornador Classic carpet cleaning gun at Motorclassica and bought one on the spot.

http://www.tornadorcleanau.com/#!produc ... asic-z-o10


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Its ability to lift dirt and grime from the carpet piles is unprecedented in my experience. You do have to be disciplined the way you use it however, holding the trumpet about 2cm from the carpet and using it in a circular motion worked the best. It's also pretty air hungry, about 250 CFM it merrily consumes, so it will work the average compressor quite hard. It took about five hours to do the whole interior twice, including the mats. Well worth it.

I thought the carpet was clean until I used this gun. Have a look at the cleaned section, the rectangle is the area I haven't cleaned yet:

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The carpet before cleaning:

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I have run the gun through the centre section of the foot rest:

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Some images of the carpet cleaning:

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The removable front mats were shown no mercy:

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Same with the over mats, cleaned on the left, before cleaning on the right:

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Outside drying:

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Whilst the carpets were drying, time to get stuck into that wayward "B" pillar trim. The drivers side was torn:

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Found a perfect (The driver must really have never used the belt) drivers side "B" pillar trim at Pick-a-part on my last visit. The only issue being it was a slightly different colour, despite being cream 275. The camera shows the difference well, but in real life it's hard to pick. Oh, it's the one in the middle in the first picture :)

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Even thought the replacement trim was undamaged, the trim was starting to lift, so best to use contact adhesive to re affix it. Left over night to cure. Same with the passenger side.

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Inspection of the RS system revealed that had never deployed, yet!

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It was heartening to see how clean and tidy the car is behind the trim (As I would have expected) but you never know! Rear door trim removed to repair the window regulator. The other three door trims will also be removed to attend to some paintless dent removal in the doors. On good thing, the car has a spectacular head lining, no marks, stains or creases, phew. From there the skirts and bumpers will be removed and into the paint shop to repair the scrape in the DSR wheel arch, and numerous scrapes and marks in the skirts.

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It's been a busy last few days, more later.
Last edited by carl888 on Sat 08 Mar, 2014 12:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

420 SE
OZBENZ Admin
Posts: 2255
Joined: Tue 30 Aug, 2005 5:54 pm
Model you own: w126
Location: Gold Coast - Q, AU, & Doha, Qatar

Re: 380 SE

Post by 420 SE » Sat 08 Mar, 2014 12:13 am

Amazing that carpet cleaner thingy... :occasion5:
Ross
"I don't know, it's just some random dude..."

220 SEb - 1962 (Hilda - sadly gone to which there is no return)
420 SE - 1988 (Lucy) - back into service!
ML 500 - 2008 (the Doha desert Dame) - retired
ML 400 - 2015 (the new Doha desert Dame, or is that Princess?)
A couple of others not worth mentioning

Beware of fundamentalists
#73

The 126 - undoubtedly the last, best large body MB

KimB
300 SLR
Posts: 1575
Joined: Thu 20 Dec, 2007 5:57 pm
Model you own: w126
Location: Sydney

Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Sat 08 Mar, 2014 2:39 pm

Absolutely awesome! This car will end up being better than when it left the factory.

When you have finished it Carl, I will bring down our 2 x 300SE's for a clean! So don't hang up your carpet cleaning thingy (as Ross calls it) just yet.

Cheers
Kim
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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