electric window regulator

[Pete49]

as the title says. My '75 450 SEL drivers side window regulator is cactus. The motor is fine but I guess at nearly 50years old its been a good unit. I reckon by the sound of the gears not meshing that the alloy frame is bent. I had removed it a couple years back to replace the motor and while it was out straightened it and I lubed everything with a good dry lube and its been ok but now need to buy a new (used) unit so can anyone give me a lead to one? Is one from a 280se a fit so maybe another option?

I'll also post this on the Topklasse site to widen the search.
Pete

[T-Modell]

Hi Pete,
same with me here and the ute. This part is afaik not aluminium, but a foundry part. So repair impossible. I bought used ones from the club, but whatever you buy it's 50 years old too. I paid twice and the new ones are working.

I'd bite the bullet and spend 500 EUR for a new one; check if A1167201246 is the correct number ... should be still available.

Kind regards
Thomas

Old and new:

[John Green]

Unless you can fluke finding a used one that was only replaced 5-10 years ago, whatever you get is going to be bent and have a limited lifespan. You could try LHD countries as there's will have less wear? Or as Thomas says go a for a new one, they you should be set for life with it.

[Pete49]

So I guess the W123 version is different? Would the one from my rear door fit the front? Unfortunately I am not in a position to buy new at the moment.

[T-Modell]

Would the one from my rear door fit the front?

As far as I can see here on Ebay, the front and rear are different.

Unfortunately I am not in a position to buy new at the moment.

Well, even used ones here are around 100 EUR with the problems mentioned above, e. g. https://www.ebay.de/itm/334848278325?ep ... R9i9t976YQ

Here's one from the rear, looks different to me:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/234515075069?ha ... R9i9t976YQ

Regards
Thomas

[Pete49]

OK Thomas, thanks for checking. Having most of the tools I need I have thought of casting one myself and maybe a bit thicker using the piston alloy as its a stronger alloy. Once I remove the unit I'll see what I can do in that area or even reinforce the one I have somehow. Failing that I'll have to save for a new one as suggested but with our pacific peso exchange rate it may become unobtainium. The age pension has some downsides here.

[T-Modell]

Hi Pete,
I understand, just wanted to share my experiences with it. I bought two used ones from the club - around 100 Euros each. Didn't see, that they weren't ok and didn't even know, that they were available new from MB (W108).

In your case I'd recommend to find a "better" used one, that might work for a while. If I can be of help in case you want a used part from Germany, then let me know.

Regards
Thomas

[Pete49]

Thanks Thomas

[John Green]

Having most of the tools I need I have thought of casting one myself and maybe a bit thicker using the piston alloy as its a stronger alloy.

Now that would be an interesting exercise. There was a guy talking about CNC machining the frame at one stage. I think the biggest challenge would be to find one that is not bent as the pattern.

[Pete49]

Very true John. I have the old one stripped out and attempting to make a wooden pattern. I think its doable but its all ahead slow at the moment. Just a question but would a unit from a W123 fit?

[John Green]

Very true John. I have the old one stripped out and attempting to make a wooden pattern. I think its doable but its all ahead slow at the moment. Just a question but would a unit from a W123 fit?

I doubt it. The geometry to make these work is precise. I can see other model regulators fitting, but not working correctly.

[CraigB]

I need to make time to go to upullit and get a drivers door. Will see what is inside it. Hopefully this week.

[Pete49]

Cheers Craig more than happy to wait but if its an ok 1 and you want to sell it I'm happy to purchase it.

[Bartman4800]

Very true John. I have the old one stripped out and attempting to make a wooden pattern. I think its doable but its all ahead slow at the moment. Just a question but would a unit from a W123 fit?

I doubt it. The geometry to make these work is precise. I can see other model regulators fitting, but not working correctly.

The easiest way to go these days, is to have the original part scanned with a 3D scanner. There are companies that can do that for you.
That point cloud then gets converted to a 3D CAD file, which is then made into CAM code to send to a 5 axis milling machine.

Making a wooden pattern will only introduce extra errors.


Regards, Bart

[Pete49]

Hi Bart, I did think of that so once I get a replacement (hopefully) I will do a 3D scan with my revo scanner (pop 1) and get it cnc done. My cnc is only a hobby unit 300x240 and only does wood. The issue is trying to straighten it without it breaking as the material is not really malleable enough. The casting part is the easy bit.

[Bartman4800]

Hi Bart, I did think of that so once I get a replacement (hopefully) I will do a 3D scan with my revo scanner (pop 1) and get it cnc done. My cnc is only a hobby unit 300x240 and only does wood. The issue is trying to straighten it without it breaking as the material is not really malleable enough. The casting part is the easy bit.

Hi Pete,

Casting still makes for a weak material. If you have it machined out of billet (alu 5083-h111 or h116) it would be far stronger.
However, it's then probably cheaper to buy a new one...

Bart

[T-Modell]

...However, it's then probably cheaper to buy a new one...

+1 ... with the ute's motor holders it was the milling time (8hrs) that did the cost. 1,000 EUR cash, the steel block was close to nothing.
Thomas