Nab's 1975 280S

[Nabstud]

Done my latest mod, took all of 2 minutes! The passenger side mirror had no adjusting handle and the chrome trim had been cut with a holesaw. Replaced the trim and installed a handle.

[Bartman4800]

Nice!

[Nabstud]

My bonnet latch has stopped working. When I pull the interior lever it still has resistance but feels a bit softer, like the cable has stretched or loosened or something. Has worked perect every time before.

Managed to get it open by getting my wife to pull the lever while a used my hands to hit/bounce/move the bonnet near where the latch is.

Any hints? I haven't googled yet, thought I would try here first.

[T-Modell]

Replace it, not expensive. My tip: before reinstalling, take a multi-purpose oil and let "a lot" drip in it, move it back and forth then.

Mine with the ute was pretty hard and it broke this spring. Got a new one (W123 was available) and did the above ... goes totally easy now.

Regards
Thomas

[Nabstud]

I haven't even looked at it yet, just looking for ideas before I strip everything down!

[Nabstud]

Took the bonnet latch apart today (without removing it completely). Seems there is an issue somewhere within the cable, maybe its stretched or come apart?

Took apart the handle completely, all seems fine and it pulls the cable in its full travel.



Found a bit of a kink as it turns behind the headlight. Looks like its been there a while though?



Removed the bonnet catch and found the lock nut loose and hanging free. I reattached it but made no difference. Played with the adjustment but only made it worse. I lubricated the latch again, it was moving fully and freely when done by hand.



Only thing left is the cable itself. When I reach up under the dash and pull the cable it unlock the bonnet fine.

[Nabstud]

While I had the AC fan out to access the bonnet latch, I gave the condenser a quick clean and decided to straighten the bent fins. All I could think to use was a small hinge, worked perfectly! Thin enough to fit between the fins and gently squeezing it closed straightened the fins easily.

[Bartman4800]

You can also use a comb to straighten the fins.

Regards, Bart

[Nabstud]

You can also use a comb to straighten the fins.

Regards, Bart

That is probably a quicker method! A few of mine were bent right over so took a bit of gentle caressing to get them straightish.

[John Green]

That is probably a quicker method! A few of mine were bent right over so took a bit of gentle caressing to get them straightish.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133995579998

[Nabstud]

That is probably a quicker method! A few of mine were bent right over so took a bit of gentle caressing to get them straightish.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133995579998

I tool I never knew existed!

[Nabstud]

Well things always happen in 3's.... Firstly the bonnet cable buggers up, still yet to sort it out. Can still open the bonnet by reaching under the dash and gently pulling the cable to release it.

Currently central locking is almost not working now. Has progressively gotten worse over the last month, firstly losing vacuum over a few days, then overnight, now 30 secs if I'm lucky after the car is turned off. When car is running it usually works but can take a minute or 2. Have a vacuum tester so when I get time I will I'll start going through it all, some pretty good info I've found online should get me through.

Now the car is running like a pig. I run 98 fuel as per advised on here and has been running great. About 30km after my last fill up (almost new independent petrol station) the car started to miss and the motor was pinging badly when under load, even ran on a couple times when I switched it off. I think what has happened is that the petrol station has put 91 in their 98 tanks (I always double check the bowser hose before filling and my receipt says 98 so I'm sure I didn't get them mixed up haha!!!). I have had to back the timing right off so power is down and the miss is mostly gone but ok to drive now. Only a third of the tank left so might drain the rest and fill up with 98 at a reputable petrol station and see how I go.

Took it for a 240km drive today to burn off some of the fuel and see if it just needed a good run. Car ran good and sat on 110kph no problem, drove from Perth to New Norcia and back, stopping at the bakery in Bindoon for a cuppa. Went past 2 oversized loads, 8-9m wide, quite a common site on this road as it is the direct route to all the northern WA mines.

[T-Modell]

Wow, those are two great pics. Everything’s bigger down under

Hope your car goes well again!
Thomas

[Bartman4800]

Just thinking, and maybe this has been tackled way before, but:

Have you ever checked the valve clearance on this engine?

Valve clearance too tight can result in very little vacuum, and piss poor running when hot.

Ignore if you done this already.


Regards, Bart

[Nabstud]

Thanks Bart, I have done the valve clearances 12-18 months ago. My rocker cover is leaking so when I replace it I will check the valve clearances again.

[Nabstud]

I finally got through the tank of dodgy fuel. Filled up with BP 98 (almost $200 for 80L, ouch) and stuck in half a bottle of Fuel Doctor - had success with this product before. Within a few km the misfiring started getting better and after 20mins driving it was like a new car!!! Then I did another drive about 30km, stopping every few km to adjust the timing, advancing it to hit the sweet spot before the pinging starts, car was running much better and more lively.

There has been a slight irregular miss during idle while in drive and on low throttle openings, mainly when the engine was up to temp. Cold starts were OK, giving it some gas or cruising along it was fine. I tried swapping out the coil, I had another one from when I installed the HotSpark electronic ignition. This made the miss even worse, almost undriveable so I put the original coil back in. Then it got me thinking - I removed the HotSpark ignition as I thought it was faulty but it didn't click that it could have been the coil. So I reinstalled the HotSpark with my old coil and it is running like a dream again! Seems my points were a bit worn, even though I gave them a good clean up not too long ago. Maybe the points were too worn to be cleaned up anymore? Anyway, went for a 40km drive yesterday, AC on with 4 adults in the car, 33°, it drove great with no missing and hauled the load no probs.

The HotSpark required a coil with minimum 3ohm primary resistance but the coil I'm using is 1.8ohm. I am running a ballast resistor in series with it, will see in time if it starys reliable. I'll keep the old points in the boot just in case....

[Nabstud]

I've been toying with the idea of selling this car, as fantastic as it is I'm a Ford man and with the current economic uncertainty there seems to be more Fords coming up in my budget, no doubt there will be more in the near future. Just throwing the idea around, if anyone is after a fantastic original 280S in a beautiful colour combo let me know.

[T-Modell]

Sad to hear… sleep about it. You might regret it one day… how much might it get? Would you get another one like this if you change your mind?

I wish you a good decision process
Thomas

[Nabstud]

I’m not really a Mercedes guy, just like the w116 shape. I enjoy playing with it, not planning on putting it on the market unless I find something else that I like more. Money wise it’s not worth a lot here in Australia despite its condition.

[T-Modell]

I’m not really a Mercedes guy,....

Well,
your enthusiasm regarding this car tells me something different
You will make the right decision for you. Sell it to Bart, then he has a Merc to drive for the next 15 years until his finny is finished

Regards
Thomas

[Nabstud]

I think he’s still working on his bus!!!

I love driving and working on Fritz, just doesn’t ignite the fire inside me like it does when I see cars I grew up working on.
Never know, might end up keeping him for years to come!!

[Bartman4800]

Hey there! Settle!

Yes, I am still working on the bus, while Kermit is appreciating in a dry shed.

I will keep you posted!

Bart

[Pete49]

As a long time FORD fan and owner I love the ride in my 450 SEL more for comfort, safety and all round good feelings that any other model built in the '60's, '70's and '80's doesn't give. Even the later models of any make don't turn my crank due to lack of individual styling and sameness.

[Nabstud]

Gotta agree, I have mates with mustangs, valiants, fords up to mid 80s, my 280 is much smoother and put together so much better.

If mine was a 450 I think I would be much happier!

[T-Modell]

Hey there! Settle!...

Bart,
it's entirely up to you to entertain us here with the restoration of your Kermit. Personal priorities should be put aside

I've done it for seven years ... I hand the baton to you

Thomas

[Nabstud]

I checked out a couple of 70s fords in my price range, OK condition (nothing like mine) and pretty bland to be honest. Mainly the lower specced cars in my price range, old Fritz's condition and feel is just next level compared to them. Fritz will be staying for a while I think...

Just been driving the pants off him lately. Ever since I put the electronic ignition back in it has been really over fueling on cold starts. I have just leaned out the choke a bit and increased the fast idle a smidge and it seems to be much better. Will see how it goes in the colder month, may need a bit more fiddling to get it spot on.
The electronic ignition has done wonders for the fuel economy. First 2 tanks were 13.6 and 13.4 L/100km (down from 14-14.5) and the latest tank was 506km from 64L - 12.6L/100km!!! 75% highway driving albeit with spirited overtaking and spurts well beyond the allowable limits and the rest keeping up with traffic in suburbia.

[T-Modell]

... Fritz will be staying for a while I think...

That's a good thing! I'm pretty sure, you don't regret that ... enjoy the ride!
Regards
Thomas

[CraigB]

That's interesting with fuel economy. We are faced with what to do with our 76 280se. Beige one I am sure posts on here - was only intended for motorsport on dirt and I felt sure we would have killed it years ago but it just won't die! mainly using the W201 in last year, but at last rallysprint for season, we had broken the other cars and so I ran it - 7th outright from about 30 cars and so much fun drifting the big old girls through corners.

But last Thursday my son was t-boned with a guy going through a stop sign. Insured on agreed value etc and his company should pay, but most likely a write off, even though only guard and both doors damaged and easily replaced. But just paint these days is a fortune. We discussed and my son who uses it the most not so keen for its fuel economy. I'm thinking to try and sell it as is. Drives great - really crisp and lively M110 with no smoke. I would miss it though for its fun value.

[Nabstud]

Hope everyone the accident was OK, I imagine the old 280 barely felt it!

Regarding my fuel economy, not sure how accurate the odometer is but prob not too far off as the mark. Around town, in the suburbs all the time I would imagine 15/16L/100km and for a young bloke that could get expensive!

[Nabstud]

Still just driving it and enjoying the nice winter weather we are having. Couple weeks ago gave it a good service - oil and filter, air filter, replace fan belt, rotate tyres, lube hinges/locks, cleaned/checked spark plugs, adjusted choke etc etc. Took a solid 5 hours including lifting it 150mm off the ground so I could get underneath...

While checking the spare, I noticed some rust stains around the tow bar plates - uh oh - this was only installed in 2018. Unbolted the 3 bolts and I was confused, the holes were pretty clean and rust free?? Then I turned the "mounting plates" over (100x100x4mm mild steel plates) and then noticed they used untreated metal, the rust was For King and country and falling off!!! Bloody idiots. So they went straight in the bin, gave the holes a quick clean, rust proofing and will paint them soon. I have a mate making a nice single 400mm long piece for me that will spread the load across a lot more area. Not that I will ever have a heavy load but now it will be done properly.

[T-Modell]

Great, that you still have it! It's always the same thing ... do it yourself and do it properly
Thomas

[Bartman4800]

Yes, that sounds like the average towbar installer's job. If it was not part of the kit, it came from a steel stash laying along the fence line...

If you measure them, the plates might actually be 1/8" instead of 4 mm. Back when Oz was still good old m'perial

[Nabstud]

Yes, that sounds like the average towbar installer's job. If it was not part of the kit, it came from a steel stash laying along the fence line...

If you measure them, the plates might actually be 1/8" instead of 4 mm. Back when Oz was still good old m'perial

And just to top it off the bolts are just cheapies from the local hardware shop...

[Nabstud]

My mate made me a stainless steel plate 400x65x5mm as a new support. Installed it with new 8.8 bolts and it will outlast the car...

[T-Modell]

And if the car starts to rust in this area, it will keep it together

[Nabstud]

And if the car starts to rust in this area, it will keep it together

It will survive an atomic bomb blast...

[Nabstud]

Been using the car non stop from Friday, going to the rubbish tip, picking up trampolines, ferrying kids around etc etc and it has been going great. When I parked it up Saturday arvo there was a slight misfire, sprayed some carby cleaner through the carb and it settled down and I thought that was it.
Started it this morning and it was OK but with a slight miss - not too happy as I was about to travel 100km to the York Motor Show. Let it warm up and it settled down. We hopped in and headed off but within 500m of leaving home the misfire was constant, running on only 5 cylinders. Bugger.
Back home, took out the plugs and gave them a clean (looked good, only just cleaned them a few weeks ago). Bit more investigation found that cylinder #5 HT lead was the culprit. These Karlyn brand leads are just under 2 years/10,000km old so not too happy with that. Lucky I kept the old leads so that got me going and did the 200km trip today with no issues.

Anyone know where to get a set of Beru leads?

[T-Modell]

...When I parked it up Saturday arvo ...

First of all your grammar is incorrect. It's Satday arvo in Australian

Anyone know where to get a set of Beru leads?

I don't know about Beru leads, but Andreas from DBDepot normally doesn't sell rubbish (unfortunately not available at the moment, but I could find out):
https://www.dbdepot.de/Ignition-cable-s ... -saw-tooth

AFAIK he doesn't ship to Oz, but in case you don't find anything in Oz and you're interested I might be able to help; shipping is just not cheap from Germany to Oz.

Regards
Thomas

[Nabstud]

My language is trying to cater for the not so aussie speaking readers haha!
Thanks for the offer. Those leads look exactly like my ones (90° bend where it connects to the dizzy cap). The Karlyn ones I got had a great reputation, maybe I just got a dud? Can't see any burn/wear marks on mine though.

[T-Modell]

Hi,
I sent an email to Mercedes yesterday; there is no "full set" of cables available, you would have to order piece by piece (cable, plug, etc.). In case that's relevant, he would need the VIN and the motor number (in case it's the original motor). Maybe worth a try at your local Mercedes?

Regards
Thomas

[Nabstud]

Hi,
I sent an email to Mercedes yesterday; there is no "full set" of cables available, you would have to order piece by piece (cable, plug, etc.). In case that's relevant, he would need the VIN and the motor number (in case it's the original motor). Maybe worth a try at your local Mercedes?

Regards
Thomas

Thanks for checking that out for me

[Nabstud]

Was driving to some markets almost an hour from my place, on the side of a semi-rural back road is a rough looking W116. Pulled up and had a look, bit rusty, wet floors but seats/interior were good and it was complete. Found the owner and asked them if they had spare parts. They said no but you can have the complete car. Couple people had made offers but no one came back to pick it up so it was about to go to the scrap yard. Gave him a stupid offer and he said yep as long as you take it today. Picked up a mate, borrowed a trailer from another mate and got it in my driveway 5 hrs later.

Spoke to the owner and his dad was the second owner, motor was "reconditioned" about 15 years ago but has been parked up for 8 years, auto gearbox is apparently a bit crappy and slipping. Some steering parts and bushes were also replaced. Interior was supposedly changed somewhere along the way and is a little mouldy in places.

It's a 350SEL. Lots of good bits like self leveling rear suspension, rear reading lights and head rests, manual windows (good for me at least), tail lights and headlights, chrome trims etc etc etc. Even the dashboard doesn't have cracks in it! If you want something let me know but I won't be offloading anything until I take what I need which could take a while...

Colour is 623H - Light Ivory
Interior is 104 - Saffron MB Tex (apparently not original, code is from tag on rear seat)

[Nabstud]

Gonna turn it over by hand with some oil squirted in there, do a compression test then try and fire it up. Nothing is missing under the bonnet except a battery so fingers crossed.

Converting my 280 to the 350 is now on the cards - I've read the 4-speed W4B 025 auto is good for 220hp, the 3.5 when new was 200hp. What are the chances the M116 bolts up to the 4 speed?

[T-Modell]

Great,
the old German taxi colour ... or sperm white ... why don't you restore the 350SE separately if the drive train is ok? At least in Germany the W116 350 was available as a manual, the last of its kind. Old dream of mine: an R107 350SL manual in bright yellow with green interiour

Good luck with the motor!
Thomas

[Nabstud]

Sperm white.... very true...

This 350SEL is not long for this world, bit of rust in the boot sides, wheel wells, around the rear window, sills etc etc, not worth restoring. Much easier to put the drive train into the 280, cheaper too haha!

[John Green]

I've read the 4-speed W4B 025 auto is good for 220hp, the 3.5 when new was 200hp. What are the chances the M116 bolts up to the 4 speed?

Zero.... The V8 bell housing is way bigger.

Also the 350SEL is a very rare car to see as an Australian delivered example. The only one I know are imports.

Gonna turn it over by hand with some oil squirted in there, do a compression test then try and fire it up.

Fire it up, might actually happen. if it has rubber hoses tot he injectors you need to be super careful and have a fire extinguisher on hand when you try to start it. These are infamous for starting a BBQ.

[Nabstud]

Fire it up, might actually happen. if it has rubber hoses tot he injectors you need to be super careful and have a fire extinguisher on hand when you try to start it. These are infamous for starting a BBQ.

Yep, I'll drag it out onto the street first and have a mate ready with the hose!

[T-Modell]

...Also the 350SEL is a very rare car to see as an Australian delivered example. The only one I know are imports.

Well,
then the decision is made: you'll write a follow-up of my ute-project with bringing the super-rare 350SEL-RHD back on the road!!!
Thomas

[Nabstud]

Had some time to play with the 350 today (it's a she, kids named it Fritzina). Took the plugs out and cleaned them up, sprayed some oil in the cylinders, put a battery in and cranked it over. Got oil pressure on the dash gauge after less than 10 seconds cranking. Put the plugs back in, a bit of Start Ya Bastard but no luck. Found out no spark. Cleaned the points and checked for voltage at the coil, all good but still no start. Found that someone had put on some sort of aftermarket ignition thing that was wired between the ballast resistor and coil -ve - disconnected it and wired the points straight to coil -ve. Bit more Start Ya Bastard and she fired up!!! Just manually dripped the fuel into the inlet manifold and it ran well but with a slight missfire. Turned it off to check a couple things and when I next went to start it up I heard the fuel pump priming... Started it up again using the fuel drip method and kept it going for 30secs then stopped my fuel drip, every other time it would then stall after a few seconds but instead it kept idling for almost a minute!!! I'm assuming then that the fuel system sort of works? I later put 10L of 98ron fuel in it but now it will only run on a fuel drip in the manifold.

I also did a compression test, all cylinders were 160-170psi. No noticeable blue smoke at all either. So far this is looking like at least a good running motor.

I am still considering putting it in my 280, but only if I can get it running with a carb (I have a 350 Holley to try). I am not interested in changing wiring looms etc so I'm not considering changing over the Djet.

My research shows that any adapters to attach a carb to the existing manifold don't run that well. Anyone know of manifolds that are designed to put a carb on a M116/M117? Seems to be only a few home/custom made ones.

[T-Modell]

You are hereby invited to the German engineers association! Motto: for a good solution I don’t need a problem!

I guess, the less complicated way is to add a bit of wiring or restore the 350 as is… but it’s your project… a carb 350, great!
Thomas