Removing lock barrel from the door handle push button

1961-1968: a.k.a "Finnie" or "Heckflosse" models
190, 190D, 200, 200D, 220b, 220Sb, 220SEb, 230, 230S, 250SE coupe, 280SE coupe, 280SE 3.5 coupe, 220SEb cabrio., 250SE conv., 280SE cabrio., 280SE 3.5 Cabrio., 300SE, 300SE coupe, 300SE conv., 300SEL
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einar
E Class
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Joined: Sun 14 Sep, 2014 5:10 pm
Model you own: w111

Removing lock barrel from the door handle push button

Post by einar » Thu 03 Aug, 2017 4:49 am

I’ve recently got hold of two front door handles and a gas cap that share the same key. The plan is (was) to replace the lock barrel from these with the ones already on the car (need to do this replacement as the “new” door handles and push buttons do not look good). The push button containing the lock barrel was easily removed from the door handle. However, the lock barrel seems to be fixed to the push button by a small “wedge”. OK, I thought – this should probably be pushed in a bit and then the barrel is released. But now way – I’m not able to push it with reasonable force. I’ve also tried to pull it, but rather limited grip with a small plier. So, the issue is how to release the barrel from the cylinder/push handle? Attached are some pictures that may illustrate the problem.
Has anyone disassembled such type of lock barrel from the push button? Any advices highly appreciated as I would like to reduce the number of keys
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Einar
Fintail - w111, 220 SE, limousine, 1964
NORWAY

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Bartman4800
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Location: Perth WA

Re: Removing lock barrel from the door handle push button

Post by Bartman4800 » Thu 03 Aug, 2017 11:15 am

I don't know how to open up those barrels, but here is a thought:

The locks are different on the doors/fuel cap and boot from factory.

Rather than having to carry all these different keys + running the risk that the locks stop working, I was going to install central locking on the car (in a way that can be reversed)

This is fairly cheap (if you do it yourself), and it greatly enhances the functionality of the car.

Just a thought....



Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "missus car"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (my new commuter bus)

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einar
E Class
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun 14 Sep, 2014 5:10 pm
Model you own: w111

Re: Removing lock barrel from the door handle push button

Post by einar » Fri 04 Aug, 2017 4:26 am

Wow – central locking would be nice. “Cheap and easy/DIY” – can you provide some info. Any kit that can be installed etc.? A possible long-term upgrade, and the above will be be the short-term – to remove the barrel.
Einar
Fintail - w111, 220 SE, limousine, 1964
NORWAY

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Bartman4800
300 SLR
Posts: 1727
Joined: Fri 10 Oct, 2008 12:10 am
Model you own: w111
Location: Perth WA

Re: Removing lock barrel from the door handle push button

Post by Bartman4800 » Fri 04 Aug, 2017 1:39 pm

It's quite easy actually.
You can go to your local auto store, or look on Fleabay.
Pulling the cables is the hardest part

Here is an example:

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Produc ... rol/153376

I have only seen 2 and 4 door systems, but you must be able to add an extra actuator on the boot.

Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "missus car"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (my new commuter bus)

User avatar
einar
E Class
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun 14 Sep, 2014 5:10 pm
Model you own: w111

Re: Removing lock barrel from the door handle push button

Post by einar » Sat 05 Aug, 2017 10:27 pm

Both wedges are now out. Got the following advice on the facebook group «This wedge must be removed in it's entirety before the cylinder will slide out. Make sure the crimps are ground away that hold it in, and then use something like a really sharp ice pick or a really sharp pic to pry it out. It'll come out. Just try getting in down on the side of it and prying up. Don't worry about a little damage to the metal around it, as that will not affect the functionality of the assembly when reassembled. “
I was not aware of the central locking kits available – and yes available locally “all over”. Could be something to do, and – yes pulling the cables would probably be the challenging issue. Thanks for the suggestion :-)
Einar
Fintail - w111, 220 SE, limousine, 1964
NORWAY

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