Bird poop

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hellbilly-joker
Dernburg Wagon
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Bird poop

Post by hellbilly-joker » Wed 16 Jul, 2014 7:11 pm

Any tips for getting it off? The previous owner threw it in for free.

Cheers.

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AMG
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Re: Bird poop

Post by AMG » Wed 16 Jul, 2014 8:41 pm

Diluted Ct-18 & a hot water pressure washer works well....
best to keep it wet down for some time. rain is good. Once it's soft you can gently spot treat it with a microfibre cloth and some ct-18 or simply some good car wash.

If the material has been left on for some time, it can etch the paint, in which case it will need to be treated with paint cleaner, clay bar and buff / polish.

Same treatment for Fig stains and flying fox poo as well.

Anyway, that's what works for me. Might work for you !
Current:
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1987 190E 2.3-16 5sp. man. Blauschwarz "Hermann"
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hellbilly-joker
Dernburg Wagon
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Re: Bird poop

Post by hellbilly-joker » Wed 16 Jul, 2014 9:01 pm

Thanks mate, Ill give it a bash tomorrow.

Cheers.

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pastelgrey300D
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Re: Bird poop

Post by pastelgrey300D » Thu 17 Jul, 2014 12:28 pm

Just get it really wet, helps if you leave it outside on a rainy day or just wet that area of the car several times and keep it wet - then most of it should come off just by spraying with the hose.
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Tony From West Oz
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Re: Bird poop

Post by Tony From West Oz » Thu 17 Jul, 2014 4:09 pm

Early in the day, lay a wet rag on it and keep the rag wet during the day. At the end of the day, it should just wipe or hose off.
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dielle
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Re: Bird poop

Post by dielle » Wed 20 Aug, 2014 2:02 pm

Use Bosistos eucalyptus oil. I've used this for years with no adverse effect to clear coat & paint. Comes off in under 10 seconds, no matter how hard it has formed.

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vanir
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Re: Bird poop

Post by vanir » Thu 11 Dec, 2014 8:38 am

There are stomach acids in bird poop of course, which will eat into paint if left on it for too long. The result can be anything from an "etching" of the paint as AMG described to outright eating it all the way through to the undercoat, which is the worst cases we see in the panel shop. No fix for that bar a respray of the afflicted panel, which is some expensive bird pooping.

If just "etched" keep in mind it has actually eaten into the paint, so you don't want to do things like put a pressure wash nozzle too close to it or you'll blow the paint off the area. Gently wash the poop away (soak with a mild soapy solution to soften/loosen it, keep it wet don't let soap dry on paint, etc.) and treat the etching by gently rubbing area evenly with a very fine grade 3000 or 5000 and a soft block, or use a trizact buzzer, and buff with a medium grade cut and medium grade polishing pad. I wouldn't even hit it with rough pads and hard cut, you'll have to do a swirl removal and on paint that's already eaten, then rubbed, you'll probably go through the clear. With a fine rub 3000 grade and up, gently done with plenty of water lube, you should only need a medium polish pad and mild compound, no different than what you'd use on fresh paint. Hard cut is for decrepid paint, oxidised, things like that. If your paint is basically good, keep it gentle for best results and low risk.


Oh forgot, always clay bar any area you're going to buff to prevent high spots around tiny crap in the paint caused by heating, and ensure a clean area to buff. For example a lot of dodgy detailers try to use the buff and cut process to clean the paint and skip the clay bar step, using the buff to remove blemishes and grime on the paint. What this does is causes high spots where the buff has heated the paint around grime then as it finally removes the grime with overbuffing, you have a high spot where the piece of grime was. It's a dodgy way to do things. Always clay bar anything you're going to buff, unless it just came out of the spray booth and oven a few days ago.
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