OM605 Broken GP

[Tony From West Oz]

I have had one GP break off when trying to remove it. $500 later and it has been removed and replaced.
I now have another GP dead and I am reluctant to try to remove it. Does anyone have recommendations on how to get it out without breaking the GP off?

[John Green]

Try to tighten it before you try to untighten it..

[Tony From West Oz]

Thanks John, I will give it a go.

[tsharkey]

What John says make sense - The other theories I have heard about trying to soak it first doesn't gell with me as they seize on the other side of the thread.

I bought the removal jig from Spain which drills, then uses a tap to pull the remainder out. It is beautifully engineered, is specific to OM605/6, works well but you have to have nerves of steel as you are drilling into your head ! Fortunately I use a lot of Spanish in my work because the instructions were not in english.

[ChristoC]

So, whilst you are drilling, it helps to repeat "pajero" does it?


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[merc-304]

Diesel pump uk has a vid on Utube of seized Glow plug removal.

[SantoC]

Does anyone have recommendations on how to get it out without breaking the GP off?

Here is what I do. Most of the information are from various forums and websites I've gathered/collected over the years.
1. Keep warm engine, due to the difference in expanding alloy engine vs GP steel. Hard to measure its efficacy, but i do it anyhow.
2. focus on one GP at a time.
3. As John states, initially tighten GP to break the carbon seal.
4. As you're progressively untighten GP, tighten it every so often.
5. use penetrating oil
6. Make patience your best friend
7. Recently I've been using a torque wrench (I set it at max 45Nm). The rationale here is some guy overseas tested breaking/snapping points of GP's. I can't remember his results but I think they snap around 60+Nm. I find using a torque wrench really useful. It allow me to gauge force. If it requires more force than desired Nm setting, refer to no. 4 & 5 & 6.

Towards the end, once it's out of the tread, it can be quite hard to pull the GP out. You can use pliers. I find a rattle gun useful here. It breaks off any carbon surrounding the GP.

Don't forget to ream out the carbon. You will be amazed how much comes out!

Test new GP with jumper leads to ensure it works before installation.

Use anti-seize compound on GP thread and body. Then install.

Good luck!

[Tony From West Oz]

Thanks a lot everyone. I will get onto the GP this week as I now have another vehicle (Musso) I can use in the rain (My 300CD has windscreen leak causing water ingress when in the rain), so the urgency of getting it out and the replacement back in is not an issue. I can take my time with it. I like the idea of using a torque wrench. I have one I can use, which operates in both directions, I just need to switch the ratchet toggle for the direction of turning.

I also have a copper based anti seize grease I could apply to the thread of the GP. Any thoughts about its use in this application?

[SantoC]

I have had one GP break off when trying to remove it. $500 later and it has been removed and replaced.

Tony, I'm curious to know the procedure undertaken to remove the broken GP?

[Tony From West Oz]

Check out the thread at viewtopic.php?f=6&t=21287&p=153615#p153615