Genuine parts???

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John Green
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Genuine parts???

Post by John Green » Tue 12 Oct, 2010 8:00 am

So what is the differance between the expensive "Genuine" parts in the lovely grey box with the Mercedes-Benz symbol on it and the parts we sell??
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Well, one of them has a Mercedes-Benz part number on it, but apart from that the answer is nothing!
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Now lets look at some brake pads, these are some front pads for a W126 380SEC. MB so called "Genuine" pads are made by a number of German companies, but maily ATE and Textar. Not by Mercedes-Benz.
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Note the Textar part number of KBA 60212 on both pads.
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The set in the MB box retail for approximatly $281.60 inc GST at your local MB stealership, we retail the ones in the Textar box for $99.50 inc GST.
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kaiser
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Re: Genuine parts???

Post by kaiser » Tue 12 Oct, 2010 11:18 am

John, for interests sake, what are the respective prices of those two filters?
Image
1971 300 SEL 6.3 - #5417 - "Merlin" (LPG)
1990 300E - "Silver Arrow"
1982 230E - "Charlie"
1987 300E - "Indy" - Taken from us before his time...
1973 280E - "Angus" - Gone too
1966 250SE - "Bessie" - Long Gone

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John Green
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Re: Genuine parts???

Post by John Green » Tue 12 Oct, 2010 12:29 pm

$38.90 and $18.50 :dance: :dance:
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kaiser
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Re: Genuine parts???

Post by kaiser » Tue 12 Oct, 2010 12:32 pm

Must cost them alot to print that star on there
Image
1971 300 SEL 6.3 - #5417 - "Merlin" (LPG)
1990 300E - "Silver Arrow"
1982 230E - "Charlie"
1987 300E - "Indy" - Taken from us before his time...
1973 280E - "Angus" - Gone too
1966 250SE - "Bessie" - Long Gone

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Ivanerrol
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Re: Genuine parts???

Post by Ivanerrol » Tue 12 Oct, 2010 1:34 pm

1972

What's the difference between a chrome wheel nut for a Triumph motor cycle.
One has Triumph molded in.

Cost for non Triumph $ 4.00 Cost for nut with Triumph on it $ 48.00 :shaking:
W211 - E240
W204 - C280
W210 - E240
Departed
W202 - C200, C180, C180
W126 - 380SE , 380SE (Ex SA Import), 560SEL
W124 - 300e, 260e (ex Japan)
W111 220s (Indonesia) 4 speed manual column shift
W123 230
W116 450SEL
W140 420SEL
W210 E240
W209 CLK 240
W201 190e 2.6 (ex U.K.)

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John Green
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Re: Genuine parts???

Post by John Green » Fri 26 Nov, 2010 9:20 am

See update to first post with brake pad information.
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zook
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Re: Genuine parts???

Post by zook » Thu 02 May, 2013 3:25 pm

replaced the clutch (pressure plate, friction disc, throwout bearing) on my W116 280S 4spd.
replacements were Sachs brand, so im fairly sure they should correct. but the design is different from the parts i took off. on the old pressure plate theres a disc for the bearing to contact, which the new plate doesnt have. the old bearing has a flat contact plate that matches up to the disc, however the new bearing has a smaller, curved surface. with that, and without the disc on the plate it means the bearing and plate must line up perfectly in order to get 360 degree contact. tried getting the disc off the old plate, but the ring holding it on broke upon refitting. fitted the new parts, but cant get the car in gear now, depressing the clutch pedal does nothing. tried several methods of bleeding the system, it seems fine, pedal is firm. could it be air in the system or are the parts wrong?

part #s: pressure plate:3082 156 031, friction disc: 1861 515 336, release bearing: 3151 069 131
are these the same as what you would supply??

pics of old and new:
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Image
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Image

was told by the PO that the clutch master and slave cylinders, plus hoses had been recently replaced. cant say for sure, but the hose looks new. did entertain the thought that the PO got the wrong slave, and it is too short to move the arm/bearing, but it worked with the old clutch.

also had a thought that the release arm is in wrong? if was upside down or something would that make a difference?

some more food for thought is that a bloke on the w116 forum had an identical problem upon replacing his clutch...link

...sorrying for hijacking the thread :whistle: thanks for your time

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ansteadeh
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Genuine parts???

Post by ansteadeh » Thu 02 May, 2013 5:01 pm

I can't be sure about 116's, but I would assume the clutch is the same as for the 114/115 as well as the gearbox? That being the case, then the old pressure plate and throw out bearing you are showing is exactly what I installed in my 114. I'm not sure the contact surface area on the new combination is quite right.

Regarding pedal pressure, it is a bit of a trick to get air out of the system. I did this by opening the bleeder at the master and slave cylinders, a tube connected to each and sitting in some new fluid in a clean container and pumped the pedal making sure the reservoir didn't get dry. I had replaced the slave and master - meaning that the WHOLE system was dry.

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John Green
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Re: Genuine parts???

Post by John Green » Thu 02 May, 2013 6:14 pm

That's a clutch from a W123. basically it will work so long at the corresponding throw out bearing has been supplied, but it would have been better with the original design.

Why it would be better, you have a drama with the clutch after it is all back together, is it an issue with bleeding (which is a pain) or was it the slightly incorrect parts, who knows. But if the correct part were fitted then you can then remove that variable.

To bleed the system you do it backwards. Get a hose that will run from the front brake calliper to the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder. Open bleeder on slave cylinder and then whilst someone is pressing on the brake pedal open the one on the calliper.

Very slowly pump fluid backwards through the system, do not let the brake pedal go all the way tot he floor at any time. Do up the bleeder nipples and then you should have brakes and a clutch.
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zook
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Re: Genuine parts???

Post by zook » Thu 02 May, 2013 6:25 pm

do you know part numbers to make sure my parts correspond?

the reverse method was what was stated in my haynes manual (which is for a 123) and i tried that initially, but then got a second opinion, and apparently its very outdated...been trying with a hose from slave nipple to a container

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ansteadeh
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Genuine parts???

Post by ansteadeh » Thu 02 May, 2013 6:40 pm

Hey John that's a good one re the bleeding! I'll have to try and remember that one! My method also worked though

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