I am in the process of changing the oil on a '73 450SL for the first time, and would appreciate some guidance.
I purchased a Hengst oil filter kit from MB Spares, which comes with three metal washers:
One large copper washer, which fits the sump plug.
One small steel washer, supposedly meant to sit between the oil canister and bolt head.
One small copper washer, supposedly meant to fit certain models which have a smaller sump plug.
Are these assumptions correct?
Whoever changed the oil previously used all three washers, hence I am unsure what to do. The diagram below is what I think is correct.
Also, the procedure below was posted here on BenzWorld.org, what is the OZBENZ consensus on this?
"A word of caution about V8 oil changes
On any Mercedes with the 116/117 engine (mainly of the 380, 450, 560 line), there is a procedure you must do after changing the oil. Draining the oil also drains the oil out of the timing chain tensioner. If the engine is started after an oil change, the tensioner takes a few seconds to build up oil pressure again. in these crucial few seconds, the timing chain is flopping around loosely.
On a higher mileage, or even not so high mileage engine, this slapping of the chain has a tendency to break the timing chain guide rails, sending plastic shards into the oil pan, and possibly bending the valves by letting the piston hit the valves.
I have seen so many inexperienced, or just uninformed, people make this mistake. When this happens, the heads and oil pan must be pulled off. The valves have to be inspected for damage, the timing chain has to be replaced, along with the guide rails obviously. And all the debris has to be cleaned out of the oil pan.
The way to prevent this is simple. Once you change the filter and get the new oil into the car, unplug the ignition coil, which is on the wheel well just behind the left headlight. Then crank the engine until the oil pressure gauge on the dash starts to move, which usually takes a good 20 seconds. Plug the coil back in, and fire it right up! If you own one of these cars, I wouldn't recommend taking it to a Jiffy-Lube type place just for this reason.
With the coil unplugged, the only force on the chain is from the starter motor turning at a few hundred RPM's. This is opposed to the force of a 200-something horsepower V8 on a 1200 rpm fast idle. The difference is dramatic. You're right, the chain is still loose, but it doesn't do NEARLY as much harm as starting the motor would."
My W108 has the same engine as your W107 (M117 4.5 L V8), and I have changed the oil many times.
I replace the filter and the large O-ring on the filter casing.
I also replace the large copper washer on the sump plug, which gets squashed on every time the sump plug is made tight.
I have yet to replace washer 2.
When I first changed the oil many years ago I was also worried about this chain slap issue you quoted. I contacted the forum sponsor who basically said "don't worry, just turn the car on."
This is what I have always done and the car still goes after many years.
Its not that the long description of damage due to old brittle timing chain guides are not correct - the issue i have is that it seems to assume the tensioner is under some kind of pressure that is then relieved by draining oil. I think every time you turn your car off the pressure is lost and then very quickly returns when you start it - which you can see on your pressure gauge. I guess there could be a minor delay from what has drained out of the pickup tube but its not very long, but if your guides are that brittle, you will have the problem regardless and i don't think one restart after an oil change will make a difference. If you have just rebuilt your motor and presumably with assembly lube, then what is suggested makes more sense - turn over until you see pressure on the gauge and all the oil galleries to the top filled and then start.
Craig Baulderstone
280s's
280SE3.5
280SL Ruby
300TE Otto
350SL Gloria
350SLC Lurch
450SEL Boris
500SEC's...including Syd
560SEL's Foufou and Zac
Regarding the small washers question. Yes, there's one spare washer in the kit.
I've always used the copper - not that it makes any difference which is used.
Before pulling out the "compression spring" (5) take a look at which side of the spring is up. It's needs a hard tug to pull that compression spring off the bolt (1).
The manual doesn't mention to clean the inside of the oil filter housing (3) - clean that out.
