Can you buy new heater taps for a W108
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- Dernburg Wagon
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon 27 Nov, 2017 9:28 pm
- Model you own: w126
- Location: Frankston Victoria
Can you buy new heater taps for a W108
Hi All. Can you get or buy the heater taps for a W108? Mine have corroded badly and in fact the arm (what the cable connects to on the core) has corroded through. Oddly enough its never wet the carpet but Id say the o ring shave been weeping for many years and rusted the arms.
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- Mercedes Demigod
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Re: Can you buy new heater taps for a W108
Given (I think) the body of the tap is brass, I would just be looking for those top metal bits off a wreck - maybe has some willing to part with on here. Then just clean them up with new oring. From memory when you remove the screw and the arm and plate bit off the top, you just pull the brass inner part of the tap. Those top steel bits are not something that would wear.... just rust.. so should be as good as new.
Craig Baulderstone
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280SE3.5
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- Dernburg Wagon
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon 27 Nov, 2017 9:28 pm
- Model you own: w126
- Location: Frankston Victoria
Re: Can you buy new heater taps for a W108
Thanks!! Now to find a wreck hahaha. They are getting hard to come by these days which is both good and bad.
- Bartman4800
- SLS AMG
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Re: Can you buy new heater taps for a W108
The tap body is copper and integral with the heater core.
The tap bit that swivels (the plug) is brass.
The arm is steel
Use a long M4 bolt with a large washer and a piece of pipe (with a larger OD than the plug) to jack the plug out of the tap body.
Make sure you mark the position of the plug before you take it out.
Clean all with scotch brite cloth, and replace the O-rings with new ones in the size 13 x 1.
Install with a bit of petroleum jelly or O-ring grease.
If the arm is rusted, get one from a wreck (they are fixed with the M4 screw) or repair your own.
It is a simple piece of flat bar with a square hole in it
Installing the plug is a bit harder. It takes a bit of force to squeeze the O-ring in, but you are likely to push the plug too far after which you cut the O-ring in half....
Trick is to push the plug in with a large surface to bottom out on the tap body.
Bart
The tap bit that swivels (the plug) is brass.
The arm is steel
Use a long M4 bolt with a large washer and a piece of pipe (with a larger OD than the plug) to jack the plug out of the tap body.
Make sure you mark the position of the plug before you take it out.
Clean all with scotch brite cloth, and replace the O-rings with new ones in the size 13 x 1.
Install with a bit of petroleum jelly or O-ring grease.
If the arm is rusted, get one from a wreck (they are fixed with the M4 screw) or repair your own.
It is a simple piece of flat bar with a square hole in it
Installing the plug is a bit harder. It takes a bit of force to squeeze the O-ring in, but you are likely to push the plug too far after which you cut the O-ring in half....
Trick is to push the plug in with a large surface to bottom out on the tap body.
Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
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1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
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2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
2012 W212 E250CDI
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)