After just over a year of varied tasks , I've brought this from sad paddock to happy "plate" as it were. Auto , drives very well (notwithstanding Zenith carbs), and overall in pretty nice condition after sourcing a better interior. "Needs" a repaint , though several people have said leave it as is. Bitzer paint job! Changed steering wheel from white to black as I reckon it suits the red interior better. Aftermarket vintage alloy wheels with 7" tyres look OK; I have the "original date stamped" ones to go with the rest of this "matching numbers collectable"
Main task was to get it operational, iron out any subtle mechanical issues and in the future I can decide what else might need attention.
Amongst a myriad of various jobs I had to rebuild the brake system from stem to stern , and I've replaced a door , all door seals and put a new windscreen+seal in. The woodwork is 75% finished. Heater tap needs attention but hey , I'm Tasmanian and a little cold doesn't bother me. The fan works...
The car was bought new by Billy McMahon's father in law. It entered Tassy in 1982, but subsequent history is at present hazy. It's covered 120,000 miles , so just run in really!
Similar , but drives differently to my manual '67 250S.
Heater taps are quite simple to do.
Get some 13 x 3 O-rings in 70 shore hardness (buy more than 2, they are cheap and you might cut one like me) and a tube of O-ring grease from your local seal specialist.
If you need some advice how to get them out and in, fire me a PM.
Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
2012 W212 E250CDI
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)
The heater problem was that the cable had broken and the arm that connects to the tap valve was missing. My donor car provided the arm (and I removed the valve just to confirm how it worked), However I have tried just about everything to see if I can move the tap in situ under the dash, but I need the longer and skinner arm option. I can't get the arm back on and it's an interference fit onto brass. So other than pulling the heater box , at this stage I am a bit stumped. I have been told a spark plug will screw into the tap valve and maybe that's how I can get the arm on.
But yes I realise the O ring is likely shot and will need replacing! Just want to have some fun with the car before going back under that dratted dash!
Nice job! Looks great, love the colour. Mine is also 1966 250S but manual. It came over from Tassie in about 2012 with SI plates on it, now on full VIC reg and driven (almost) daily. Previous history unknown, but has had similar full brake rebuild, new windscreen. Zeniths are OK once they are balanced right.
Tazzieman wrote:The heater problem was that the cable had broken and the arm that connects to the tap valve was missing. My donor car provided the arm (and I removed the valve just to confirm how it worked), However I have tried just about everything to see if I can move the tap in situ under the dash, but I need the longer and skinner arm option. I can't get the arm back on and it's an interference fit onto brass. So other than pulling the heater box , at this stage I am a bit stumped. I have been told a spark plug will screw into the tap valve and maybe that's how I can get the arm on.
But yes I realise the O ring is likely shot and will need replacing! Just want to have some fun with the car before going back under that dratted dash!
Thanks for the O ring size heads up btw.
The thread in the tap valve is M4 from memory.
Get yourself a long M4 screw, a piece of metal tube with larger ID than the valve body OD, an M4 washer and a nut.
I could pull the valve out with pliers on the M4, but if that fails you can use the screw, tube washer and nut to jack the valve out.
Most likely there is a burr on the square of the valve, that's why you cannot get your arm back on. A small file will fix your problem.
Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
2012 W212 E250CDI
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)
Hi, great car, looks good! Wheels are surely a matter of personal taste, but everyone should put on what he likes ... seems to be standard die Tasmania, when I see the W123 in the background with the manholes
Enjoy your car!
Thomas
P. S.: What's that sticker on the back?
--------------------------------------------------------------- 1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, solar orange, "Ute"
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2019 W222 S560, ruby black, comfy cruiser
T-Modell wrote:Hi, great car, looks good! Wheels are surely a matter of personal taste, but everyone should put on what he likes ... seems to be standard die Tasmania
P. S.: What's that sticker on the back?
My '67 is completely standard , wheel wise!
The sticker is what remains ; Adam (ANF) put a sponsor sticker on there when he planned to use it for that rally. The boot has marks like an old table in a pub , which isn't necessarily a bad thing ;<)
Bartman4800 wrote:The thread in the tap valve is M4 from memory.
Get yourself a long M4 screw, a piece of metal tube with larger ID than the valve body OD, an M4 washer and a nut.
I could pull the valve out with pliers on the M4, but if that fails you can use the screw, tube washer and nut to jack the valve out.
Bart
Well I had a spare moment and freed it up just now. Easier to see what's what at night with a head torch. I went through the radio hole , screwed the arm on using a spark plug. Luckily the valve was in the off position to the left ; when I cautiously tightened the plug (used a few extensions/angle socket) the arm moved fairly easily. Then I used pliers to wiggle it back , and repeated a few times and now can do it by hand.
I'll test tomorrow and the O ring may or may not be perished. We'll see! If it works I'll get another cable installed.
Or you might find it out the next time your engine gets to operating temperature and hot coolant starts pissing over your feet....
It is actually a good idea to remove the heater box. It is the only way to replace those short length hoses (hot water intake)
If they have not been replaced in the 50 years passed, it is probably due...
Bart
1963 220 Sb Sedan "Kermit" (Australian Assembly)
1960 220 Sb Sedan "Zum Schlachten" (Early German Assembly, with a torsion bar spring for the bonnet) - Stored in Country WA
2012 W212 E250CDI
1981 Subaru Brumby 1.8 with Weber and 5-speed box "little utie" - Sold to another enthusiast!
2006 Ford Focus "daily driver"
2002 VW Passat V6 30V Station Wagon (SOLD - This car into a money pit)
2011 Kia Sportage "Missus commuter Bus"
2002 Mitsubishi Rosa Bus (converting it to a motor home)
Bartman4800 wrote:Or you might find it out the next time your engine gets to operating temperature and hot coolant starts pissing over your feet....
It is actually a good idea to remove the heater box. It is the only way to replace those short length hoses (hot water intake)
If they have not been replaced in the 50 years passed, it is probably due...
Bart
I've packed some towels and clean water for if the baby delivers prematurely.
Mercmad wrote:Getting a heater out of a 108 ain't easy. take the passenger seat out to get room.
I pulled one from a donor car without aircon , which made it a touch easier.
Neither of my 108s have aircon now. A major advantage in living in Tas! I found the general ventilation more than adequate , but obviously you wouldn't want to be stuck in traffic on a hot day. Luckily , that isn't a problem here.
