380 SE

1979-1991 280SE, 300SE, 300SEL, 380SE, 380SEL, 380SEC, 420SE, 420SEL, 420SEC, 500SE, 500SEL, 500SEC, 560SEL, 560SEC
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Giles
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Re: 380 SE

Post by Giles » Wed 18 Feb, 2015 8:17 pm

Cheers Carl I've got the leather pretty clean so I've a good base to start with.

I've purched a good brush and the likely hood of a 18 degree day or lower in WA at the moment is pretty remote.

I've got a few small cracks to fill before re dying, but I've done lots of homework so I should be alright.

I intend on doing the back seat first as its the easiest to remove.

My front one are orthopaedic and memory preset, so I'll do them last.

Regards,

Giles
1981 500SLC (Colour Black) Keeper car 'Lola' walks like woman, talks like a man
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 28 Mar, 2015 4:37 pm

A quick update. Been swamped with other work this last month so haven't made it near the car until today. Felt I needed to do something at least, however small, to keep the project rolling. Today's job was simply to install the radiator grille.

I bought a new seal (That fits between the grille and bonnet) and it was quite tricky to apply. The holes cut in the rubber didn't quite match those of the bonnet plus the replacement seal was slightly smaller than the one it replaced. I was able to cut a section from the old seal and make it the correct length however.

Sounds trivial, but the grille re-fitted has given me a little boost. I may be able to get back into some more tomorrow.

Some pics.....

About to be fitted:

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The new seal:

Image

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Of course some of the screws to affix the grille to the bonnet were missing, so bought some new originals:

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The double sided tape holds the rubber to the grille, you have to be very careful to make sure the rubber follows the line of the grille exactly. Any "Waves" in the rubber and it appears very obviously. The position off the grille with regards to the bonnet can be moved slightly and lining it up precisely is very important.

Done!

Image

Image

Image


I can't say the above procedure was particularly thrilling, none the less, the attention to detail paid off. It appears as I imagine a new one would. Hopefully more updates shortly...

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T-Modell
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Re: 380 SE

Post by T-Modell » Sat 28 Mar, 2015 6:53 pm

Carl,

amazing amazing :laughing6: :laughing6: ... how about I fill some original German air into cans and send it over ... if you put that in the tyres, then it's really original :laughing5:

Congrats
Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 29 Mar, 2015 11:54 am

Sorry Thomas, even if the air was German, it would be compressed by an American compressor powered by a French and Singaporean utility! And, the current XWXs are manufactured in Serbia, so I suppose you'd call it a United Nations effort!

Anyway, some images for consideration. Have a look at the differences between the left and right hand side headlamp housings, specifically the inner side. notice the "Ears" on the left hand side? This is what I believe to be the original headlamp fitted during assembly. The right side headlamp I obtained from the wreckers from a 280 SE 1985. The lamp fitted when I bought the car also had these "Ears"

My other W126 does not features these "Ears" on either side, and I am confident that this vehicle has both original headlamps.

Any ideas as to the reason for this? Hmmmmm.

Eary version:

Image

Image


Plain version:

Image

Image

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 15 Aug, 2015 5:14 pm

Well, nothing to add in almost 5 months... The painter has been swamped. As have I, so I haven't pushed him, until today, should have some door moldings and bumpers painted in the next week or so, then I can put the door trims back on at last....great! I've been driving the car around the block once a month and getting the engine up to temperature but the fact its been sitting for that long is somewhat frustrating.

It's been so long I've had to sort through again which skirts to paint of the ones I've been collecting! I was surprised how many different clips and fasteners affix the moldings to the doors. It took the best part of a day to decipher the parts diagram and order what I needed.

When this is done I can just imagine a small and dim light at the end of the tunnel.


Image

Image

Image

Image

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Re: 380 SE

Post by DBW124 » Sat 15 Aug, 2015 8:58 pm

I had to buy new clips for the cladding on the front guard of my 124, so I hate to think how much that lot cost.
W124 E 280

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 15 Aug, 2015 10:54 pm

DBW124 wrote:I had to buy new clips for the cladding on the front guard of my 124, so I hate to think how much that lot cost.
65% of the purchase price of the car, scary isn't it?

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Re: 380 SE

Post by DBW124 » Sun 16 Aug, 2015 3:10 pm

carl888 wrote:
DBW124 wrote:I had to buy new clips for the cladding on the front guard of my 124, so I hate to think how much that lot cost.
65% of the purchase price of the car, scary isn't it?
Yikes.

A while back I managed to salvage some more from Pick a Part. They didn't bother to charge me.
W124 E 280

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Re: 380 SE

Post by MarkSE » Sun 30 Aug, 2015 11:04 am

Hi Carl, nice to see some progress on the 380 no matter how small.

I have been meaning to ask, did you ever come up with a solution to your high cold idle after you activated the vacuum advance? I was thinking my smog pump must be close to "falling off" (it doesn't have a belt connected anyway) but I'm unsure what to do with the leftover vacuum line(s) and the air pipe that goes into the engine. May I ask how you overcame this?

Thanks in advance and keep up the (insanely) good work!

Mark

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 30 Aug, 2015 8:01 pm

Hi Mark,

Yes, sort of! The M110 system works a treat. Was able to get the cold idle down to 1,100 rpm. The M116 has come down but not as much as I would like, it's still up around 1,400 rpm for the first two minutes of operation which is too much. The next step is to put a small restrictive collar in the AAV plumbing of this engine to restrict the air flow when the AAV is operating.

Here's a scruffy diagram of the system used on both cars, the pink lines indicate the vacuum lines:

Image

Note, the reference to M117, should read M116 being an Australian specification 380 SE

M110: This looks bizarre, but actually works really well. Utilising the 50 degrees C temperature switch on the RHS side of the head (Was was used as part of the EGR system, now redundant) this switch does not allow air to pass above 50 degrees C. So below this figure, vacuum is applied to BOTH sides of the distributor as the switch is open, so the advance and retard circuits receive equal vacuum, i.e. no advance or retard. Above 50 degrees C, the switch closes, vacuum is now removed from the retard circuit allowing only the advance circuit to operate.

I thought the short length of the line between the retard circuit and the switch would compromise the ability to apply advance only, but this is not the case, must be a fair vacuum there!

The reason I chose this method to control advance was because the temperature switch is on the other side of the engine compared to the distributor and inlet manifold.

M116: This system is simpler, as the 50 degree C switch and the distributor are very close, unlike the M110. Just the inlet manifold connection (In the centre of the "V") with a short length to again, the switch (Identical to the M110 version, and used for the same purpose) and then to the advance side of the distributor. The retard circuit vents to atmosphere.

All the above required no parts, it utilises the existing parts removed.

Some pics:

M110:

Throttle butterfly vacuum connection:

Image



"Y" piece on vacuum line, lower line to advance port on distributor, upper to 50 degree temperature switch:

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Vacuum connection to 50 degree temperature switch on RHS of head:

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Retard connection to distributor:

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M116

A little hard to see but vacuum line going to throttle butterfly:

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Connection to advance port on distributor:

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Vacuum connection to 50 degree temperature switch behind WUR on coolant housing:

Image



Retard connection to distributor, venting to atmosphere:

Image


Both systems provide approximately 20 degrees of vacuum advance at idle.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 30 Aug, 2015 8:18 pm

MarkSE wrote:Hi Carl, nice to see some progress on the 380 no matter how small.

I have been meaning to ask, did you ever come up with a solution to your high cold idle after you activated the vacuum advance? I was thinking my smog pump must be close to "falling off" (it doesn't have a belt connected anyway) but I'm unsure what to do with the leftover vacuum line(s) and the air pipe that goes into the engine. May I ask how you overcame this?

Thanks in advance and keep up the (insanely) good work!

Mark
Mark, to answer your other question, both my ADR27 compliant engines have no vacuum lines with regards to the engine except for this advance mechanism noted above and the standard connections to the WUR.

I have lost the ability to reduce retard upon engagement of the air conditioning compressor, though I could make something up to provide partial and full advance, I may do this, but at this stage can live with the 100 rpm drop at idle.

In your case, I would follow the vacuum diagram and ignition timing for the European engines, make sure the engine is healthy with regards to ignition and valve clearances and away you go. You will need to tweak the mixture however, it will lean out slightly if untouched.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by MarkSE » Wed 02 Sep, 2015 4:48 pm

Thanks for the info Carl, it was just what I needed!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 04 Sep, 2015 3:52 pm

Mark, do you have this book? These books applicable to ones model year I find mandatory, especially when you're chasing technical specifications in a small, concise and easily accessed format. If you wish to start playing around with your fuel injection, they're a must!

This is the one I've used for the 380 SE. I've copied the RoW and Australian Version WUR control pressure graphs for comparison. These books contain the whole engine range, along with part numbers.

Image

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 04 Sep, 2015 4:14 pm

A small update, I managed to disassemble the front and rear bumpers and deliver them to the paint shop. I admit the job swallowed half a day. Just the door mouldings to go now. I assumed the chrome inserts would be easily removed. They were, but there are many, many fasteners affixing the chrome trim to the plastic bumpers.

The underside of both the front and rear bumpers contain a mixture of 8mm and 10mm hex screws of differing lengths:

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This is what you end up with!

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I think this explains why the RHS of the rear bumper was sitting in farther than the left!

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Now outside (Again) for cleaning...

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Date stamp on the front bumper suggests it hasn't hit anything too hard in the past:

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Funny how clean the aluminium front bumper insert looks when cleaned up, well, most of it anyway:

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Sigh, looks like I do have to paint the section immediately below where the grille sits:

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Drying on the rack just before delivery to the painter:

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And I took the liberty of removing the tow hitch cover:

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That's it for the week, back into it next week with any luck...

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 04 Sep, 2015 4:21 pm

Here's a link to the exploded diagram of the front bumper, so many fasteners!

http://www.mbpartsworld.com/showAssembl ... gory=24390

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 16 Sep, 2015 6:36 pm

Anyone struggled removing the brightwork from the skirts?

In my case, removal entails sliding the strip rearwards allowing the bodywork retaining clip to "Pop" off the back of the trim. Trouble is, it's covered in a light coat of oxide, and it seems two have become one! Meaning I'll have to cut it off. Thinking about throwing the lot in the parts washer to see if that frees them up.

Image

Image

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 20 Sep, 2015 9:43 am

Joy of joys, all the brightwork is now removed without damage. Luckily. Soaking the two strips that wouldn't budge in penetrant did the trick. You have to be really, really careful not to bend the steel as any deformation shows up readily.

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Interesting to see the date stamp on the back of the mouldings:

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On the sections that fit the doors, the small plastic studs are a very tight fit through the moulding, a little lubricant allowed them to be pressed out:

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Here's an excercise sure to take another day. Each moulding has a length of double sided tape the runs along the top. I assume this is to stop the ingress of water between the door skin and the moulding. A blade as pictured removes it. I can't see the tape on the parts diagram so I suspect it's supplied as part of a new moulding. Any idea what I should replace it with? I have some double sided 3M tape, but it's quite a bit thinner than what's fitted to the car. I'll have a look around...

Image


Anyway, I can now take the goodies to the painters at last...

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 16 Nov, 2015 7:13 pm

Progress after a difficult 2015 so far, managed to find some time however and the skirts are closer! Once done, I can not only fit them, but then also fit the door trims and brightwork.


A little preparation:

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In the paint booth:

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Plan is to have the final assembly happening over the Christmas period, we shall see....

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Tue 17 Nov, 2015 4:29 pm

Yay! :occasion5:
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 20 Nov, 2015 12:39 pm

More work....

Image

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And the skirts/cladding (Still not sure what to call them) all painted bar one:

Image

Should all be done by the middle of next week.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by scorchi0 » Fri 20 Nov, 2015 12:48 pm

carl888 wrote:And the skirts/cladding (Still not sure what to call them) all painted bar one:
Sacco boards!
1991 S124 300TE - Smoke Silver
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 20 Nov, 2015 1:47 pm

scorchi0 wrote:
carl888 wrote:And the skirts/cladding (Still not sure what to call them) all painted bar one:
Sacco boards!
lol, what about "Bruno Board" since it rhymes :)

One has a small tear in the leading edge, so out with the JB weld this morning, I'll let it cure for the weekend and see how it come up Monday, if it doesn't work, off to Pick-a-Part again!

Image

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Re: 380 SE

Post by T-Modell » Fri 20 Nov, 2015 5:32 pm

Carl,

is the last picture a secret hint where we can find you? Senior citizen centre dancing "old-time" ... :laughing6:
Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------
1967 W111 250SE Cabriolet, horizon blue
1973 W115 220D 5.0 Pick-Up Argentina, work in progress 2017/18/19
1986 R107 500SL, arctic white, the midlife crisis viagra replacement
2007 R171 SLK350, calcit white
2008 S211 E63T, calcit white, sleeper

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 21 Nov, 2015 8:12 am

T-Modell wrote:Carl,

is the last picture a secret hint where we can find you? Senior citizen centre dancing "old-time" ... :laughing6:
Thomas
Indeed, hopping around on my walking frame :jokercolor:

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Re: 380 SE

Post by Ozpacman » Sun 22 Nov, 2015 4:10 pm

Thank you very much for taking the time to post all of the images and information Carl. I've just read it through from the beginning and it's a real credit to you. As someone who is new to the MB hobby I'm finding it invaluable.

Please keep up the great work!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 23 Nov, 2015 9:59 am

Ozpacman wrote:Thank you very much for taking the time to post all of the images and information Carl. I've just read it through from the beginning and it's a real credit to you. As someone who is new to the MB hobby I'm finding it invaluable.

Please keep up the great work!
Thanks, and you're welcome!

My advice to you as a new person to the hobby is to take note of everything in the thread and do the exact opposite, you'll be a lot happier :)

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 23 Nov, 2015 8:15 pm

A question, I am having real trouble removing the exterior mirror glass from the mounting. The circular clip seems very reluctant to move. I gave the glass a tweak with a plastic wedge and promptly broke it. Anyone know of a straightforward way to loosen the wire that affixes the glass to the mounting?

Some pics:

The sole purpose of dissassembly is to paint the silver backs. You cannot remove this piece of trim without removing the glass first:

Image


Here's something to be mindful of, the rubber trim is held in place with a small plastic grommet:

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You need to remove the centre pin first by pushing it out from behind which allows the fingers of the grommet to collapse, aiding removal:

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This is where things went pear shaped. I removed the spring clamp (That is attached to the back of the mirror glass) from its mounting and assuming it was free, proceeded to lever the glass out with a plastic wedge, as per the WSM procedure. "Bang" it went, and the glass ended up with multiple fractures and small glass shards went all over the bench. So I just swore and opened a bottle of wine.

You can see the loose wire in the image below, well, I thought it was loose.

Image


And the glass:

Image


I'll have another go tomorrow. Bloody thing.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by pastelgrey300D » Tue 24 Nov, 2015 10:52 am

Bugger. I have a spare mirror if you desperately need it (not sure what side it is though, Murphys law dictates it will be the one you don't need though).

I did a post on how to remove the glass on a W123 mirror, not sure if these would be similar to a W126 but just have the chrome face rather than painted plastic?

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=18578&p=131051
David
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 25 Nov, 2015 4:18 pm

David, thanks for the offer, luckily, I have a spare glass, the one I broke is for the drivers side. The W123 mirrors are different in that they do not have the retaining wire of the W126 system. I haven't been able to separate them as yet.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 26 Nov, 2015 6:20 pm

Gosh, the drivers side mirror continues to cause grief. Despite the spring clamp now completely removed, the mirror refuses to budge. Even though I've broken the glass I'm scared I'll break the adjustment mechanism now.

Here's the mirror after today's effort, the affixing spring, now removed, is in the background:

Image


Here's the back of a replacement glass, notice the large white area of adhesive?............perhaps that's why the mirror won't budge! I am unsure as to why there's two methods of affixing the glass to the mirror assembly, the wire clamp, and the adhesive. (Note: the wire clamp is in position, you're supposed to be able to put that on with the mirror mounted in the assembly)

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However, it's not all doom and gloom. I collected the front and rear bars today and I am very happy with how they have turned out. Some images:

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Image

Just the one skirt to go in terms of painting (The front left that I repaired) and the backs of the two mirrors if I can get them apart!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 01 Dec, 2015 3:24 pm

Another mirror update....

At last, I managed to extricate the mirror glass from the mirror assembly. I used a heat gun on the glass, it was so hot it cracked some more! Anyway, the glass peeled away with some difficulty from the mount without further issue. I dug out my spare mirror glass, only to find it's a passenger side glass, so I bit the bullet and ordered a new one.

You can see the mounting pad for the drivers side mirror glass is considerably bigger than the passenger one and this is what makes it so difficult to remove due to the adhesive on the mirror back. The passenger glass fell off in my hand this morning, no problem!

Drivers side housing, the tricky one!

Image


Passenger side housing, much easier to remove the glass here. Gimbal assembly surrounds the electric motor for adjustment, whereas the drivers side lacks this intricate device. Notice the two Philips heads screws either side of the gimbal assembly that affix the plastic mirror cover to the assembly. No way of getting to those with the mirror assembled.

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So now I have the plastic mirror backs safely removed and ready for painting.

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Of course, it's not that simple, notice the marks and wear on the black sections of the mirror housing, where will it end!!

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Sigh, mirror assembly being prepared for painting too...


Here's a question. I assumed the silver on the back of the mirror always matched the bumpers and skirts. But it seems I am incorrect. I noticed today when I walked past the other W126:

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A quick look on the net suggests these series 1 W126 mirrors are all painted 7175 matte grey irrespective of the skirt colour. In my case, the 380 SE being diamond blue 355 has skirts in the same colour, matte grey 7175. However the other car, thistle green 811 has skirts in 7174 anthracite but the mirrors are 7175. Interesting!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 01 Dec, 2015 3:49 pm

I had a look at a very nice 420 SEL from 1989 last Sunday at the MBCV Southbank display. Two things caught my eye. Remember the lugs on the side of the headlights on the 380 from an earlier post:

380 SE:

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420 SEL:

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My passenger side headlight has been replaced at some stage, so I assume only the later lamp housing (Or the wrong one) was supplied. The EPC shows no part for the 380 SE to be affixed in this location, unlike the 420. Interesting!


Also, have a look at the top of the front damper mounts on the 420, a small plastic cap on each side. These also appear on the EPC for the 380, so I ordered some this morning. Funny, I never recall seeing them on a series 1 W126 before. Perhaps they all just fell off! Part number is 170 323 01 38

Image

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 11 Dec, 2015 3:09 pm

Waiting for the PS and DS mirror assembly and one PSF skirt to come back from the painters, then it will be on for young and old over the Christmas period, I hope!

Some small items to arrive this week:

Covers for the upper front damper mounts:

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Before:

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And after:

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When I removed the front bumper the seal just under the headlights fell apart, here's two new ones:

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They appear much thicker than the originals, I hope they fit!


And, the dreaded drivers side mirror glass. I see a new clip comes with the assembly, perhaps that's because after acts of mindless violence committed by frustrated owners, there's nothing left of the old one :)

Image

Image


Not much else I can do presently except clean things so looking forward to getting the remaining parts back from the painter.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 09 Jan, 2016 7:16 pm

Happy New Year to all the W126 custodians. I hope 2016 will be a better year for all of us.

Back into to the 380 SE for this year as of yesterday. First job was to give it a run and place it on the alignment ramps. The nice thing about the ramps is sitting on a "C" stool, the doors are at the correct height, off we go!

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Looking at the aluminium front bumper insert I decided it needed painting. Easy to perform this yourself.

Before:

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After a rub down with some 1200 wet and dry, then a squirt with self priming satin black, it's ready:

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I was somewhat unsure about how to brighten the chrome front and rear bumper inserts. They were really filthy and discoloured:

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The first cleaner I used was Silvo. This did a very nice job on the sections that were already reasonably clean, but the dirtier sections were very hard work. I decided to wipe the whole bumper and leave it to sit for 20 minutes before buffing off. Again, the clean sections came up well, however the dirty sections required a LOT of pressure, it was hard work.

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I then tried some Autosol. I'd had success with this product before and on the chrome of the bumpers, it was better than the Silvo, even more so if I left it to stand for some minutes before wiping off. But it took two hours just to do the rear bumper insert, but it looks like new.

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I've started on the front bumper chrome insert as of this evening so should have them both assembled and ready to install tomorrow. After that I'll get into the skirts. I know they're going to be troublesome with all the associated clips, grommets and washers....

Ozpacman
A Class
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue 03 Nov, 2015 10:28 pm
Model you own: w126
Region: Queensland
Location: Trinity Beach Qld

Re: 380 SE

Post by Ozpacman » Sun 08 May, 2016 7:18 pm

Hi Carl,

Just checking to see how you're going with the car. Any more progress?

Cheers,

Russ

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carl888
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Joined: Tue 08 Aug, 2006 11:15 pm
Model you own: w126
Region: Victoria
Location: Melbourne

Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 16 May, 2016 3:48 pm

Hi Russ,

I have made minimal progress since January unfortunately. The hold up has been 1. Me! I've been working on two other automotive projects in between managing some family affairs. 2. The balance of the paint jobs, being the mirrors and one last skirt were only returned to me last week. Although I cannot get back to the car immediately, I hope to make some progress over the coming weeks. I do look forward to getting into it again.

All the best,

CJ.

Ozpacman
A Class
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue 03 Nov, 2015 10:28 pm
Model you own: w126
Region: Queensland
Location: Trinity Beach Qld

Re: 380 SE

Post by Ozpacman » Mon 16 May, 2016 9:47 pm

Excellent news Carl!

I look forward to seeing how you tackle what needs doing. The car is certainly coming along well and looks like it'll turn out very nicely.

I know what you mean though. Life just has a way of getting in the way of these projects sometimes.

Cheers,

Russ.

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carl888
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Joined: Tue 08 Aug, 2006 11:15 pm
Model you own: w126
Region: Victoria
Location: Melbourne

Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 25 Nov, 2016 6:19 pm

Sadly almost 6 months have passed and have not been able to get near the 380 SE. I am taking some time off in January and will make a good stab at it then. Hopefully some pictures to follow....shortly!

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Heksi
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri 01 Apr, 2016 7:08 pm
Model you own: w124
Location: Vantaa, Finland

Re: 380 SE

Post by Heksi » Sat 26 Nov, 2016 2:59 am

Such a joy to read this kind of project. Great work! :notworthy: I purchased a 1.series 1985 500 SEC in September, so it has a lot in common with your 380 SE. My other drive is a 1992 300E-24. At the moment the SEC is hibernating over the winter, but I have done (and planned to do) some servicing and preventative maintenance to it. Reading this topic has already given me good information.

Some pics of the SEC can be found here https://www.tumblr.com/blog/500sec and also on my Instagram account "hptalli"
1985 500 SEC
1992 300 E-24
1990 200 quattro 20V
instagram@hptalli
:coffee2:

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ngruzevs
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Model you own: w126
Location: Melbourne
Contact:

Re: 380 SE

Post by ngruzevs » Sat 26 Nov, 2016 8:04 am

Look forward to some forthcoming posts. Hope you can enjoy the 380SE in time, would be a pleasure to go on a run when done :)
Current Garage
1971 MK2 Jensen Interceptor Regency Red Jeremy
1979 W116 450SE Brilliant Red Metallic Claudia
1985 W126 280SE Thistle Green Max
1987 W126 300SE (SA Delivered) Pearl Grey Matt Oscar
1990 W126 420SE Dark Blue The Gangster
2018 Hyundai i30N Polar White Penelope

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carl888
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Joined: Tue 08 Aug, 2006 11:15 pm
Model you own: w126
Region: Victoria
Location: Melbourne

Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 05 Feb, 2017 11:58 am

I can't say that work has gone exact;y to plan....

I went to move the car up on the wheel alignment ramps, which are about 500mm off the floor, makes jobs such as installing bumpers, exterior trim and the like easy as you are unencumbered by the posts of a hoist. However the car refused to start. A brief investigation revealed the fuel pump is inoperative. A careful knock from a hammer failed to bring it to life.

I ended up purchasing a 4 post stacking hoist and summoned a few local trouble makers to assist in pushing the car onto the hoist ramps. So here it sits as of this morning. I'll have to replace the pump and that will allow me to drive the car up onto the alignment ramps. Though I could however lower the hoist and do the work as it sits presently. I think I'd prefer to have it running first though. More to come soon, hopefully!

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1983w123helga
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon 07 Nov, 2016 12:56 pm
Model you own: w123
Location: Sydney, Enmore

Re: 380 SE

Post by 1983w123helga » Sat 09 Jun, 2018 1:23 pm

Any further updates? I’ve been eagerly awaiting more! :glasses2:

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carl888
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Model you own: w126
Region: Victoria
Location: Melbourne

Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 11 Jun, 2018 4:14 pm

Urrrgggghhhhhhhhhh, so have I!

Current status, the last 18 months have flown and sadly I've done nothing worth mentioning. I've been very time poor with proper work in the factory along with looking after the remnants of Mum and Dads estate which is coming to a close and I have to admit however, two vehicles have taken priority......sorry!

I stripped the 1967 250 SL of its chromework and most of the interior, I need to perform some metalwork and wanted to keep that project running and I thought I do a very quick leather interior feed on the Mulsanne S but that turned into removing the complete interior which was no small undertaking and swallowed nearly 6 months.

Your message is timely because the light is at the end of the tunnel with the 380. I put the car on the ground last week to get back into it and I'll be working on it every Thursday from now on. I'll be sure to throw up lots of images from next week. Happy days.

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carl888
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Location: Melbourne

Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 11 Jun, 2018 4:18 pm

Whoops, I did do a little over the Summer however I had not posted any images, I am still going with feeding the leather!

I put the car in the sun and gave it another going over.

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carl888
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Model you own: w126
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Location: Melbourne

Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 11 Jun, 2018 4:28 pm

I've had really good success with this product on the Bentley (Which like this car, had never been fed, plus the leather is no where near as tough as the Mercedes-Benz hides) and the seats came up really well. So I thought I'd give it a go on the 380.

This product from Joseph Lyddy is a leather oil. You can buy it from Horseland and whilst it seems to give the same nourishment as the Connolly Hide Food I was previously using, it is far, far easier to apply. It seems like a 10W oil rather than a paste, so easy to apply with a rag or even a brush. My seats are great, feel supple and should only require a going over annually...........I hope.

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carl888
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Model you own: w126
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Location: Melbourne

Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 11 Jun, 2018 9:49 pm

Kim, I have your message however my reply bounced. Do you have another address? CJ.

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ngruzevs
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Re: 380 SE

Post by ngruzevs » Tue 12 Jun, 2018 8:27 pm

Carl, I must thank you for this tip. I used the same oil on my Jensen Interceptor seats. I applied 50 coats of oil (using a brush), before the oil no longer sunk in. Performed the same on the leather wheel, in this case 20 coats were required.

In total I used four 250ml bottles. Horseland in Ringwood were starting to get upset, but still kindly sold me the product.
Current Garage
1971 MK2 Jensen Interceptor Regency Red Jeremy
1979 W116 450SE Brilliant Red Metallic Claudia
1985 W126 280SE Thistle Green Max
1987 W126 300SE (SA Delivered) Pearl Grey Matt Oscar
1990 W126 420SE Dark Blue The Gangster
2018 Hyundai i30N Polar White Penelope

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carl888
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Joined: Tue 08 Aug, 2006 11:15 pm
Model you own: w126
Region: Victoria
Location: Melbourne

Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 15 Jun, 2018 5:08 pm

Managed to spend the whole afternoon yesterday on the 380 SE. Not much progress, my memory had failed me as it's been 18 months since I planned to assemble the bumpers. I washed the bumpers and skirts and sorted the fasteners for them and the skirts in some sort of logical sequence ready for assembly. I gave the chrome on the bumper inserts another go with Autosol and they are looking nice.

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The factory WSMs are fabulous for these projects, particularly for any trim removal procedure and I can thoroughly recommend these:

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Walking around the wrecking yards I noticed evidence of corrosion in some W126 bumper mounts in the body. With this in mind I'll be fitting new rubber seals that sit between the bodywork and the bumper iron. Still available from MBA.

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Old and new:

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Every Thursday I'll be working on the car from now on which will help to re-establish some momentum.

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