380 SE

1979-1991 280SE, 300SE, 300SEL, 380SE, 380SEL, 380SEC, 420SE, 420SEL, 420SEC, 500SE, 500SEL, 500SEC, 560SEL, 560SEC
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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 05 Mar, 2013 10:19 pm

Getting slowly back into the $500 380 SE (What was that about values lol). Another 650 kms since the last message. Despite its moderate 106,000 kms, the car is really depressing after driving the others. It rattles, has marks in every panel, the interior is scruffy at best and seems to be swallowing money at an alarming rate. Last week I drove an Italian car for the day because I was scared of being stranded in this unreliable crate! Its redeeming feature is the very strong engine and nice V8 burble. And the fact it didn't get wrecked. Oh, and no rust. I'll probably bring it to the MBCV show at Flemington next month if anyone wishes to come along and poke fun at it.

Went to gas the air conditioning and there is a leak in the vicinity of the left hand side of the condenser. More investigation required on that one.

Fixed the intermittent no start with a new ignition module. It wasn't exactly a drop in replacement, I had to mount it upside down and bend slightly a bracket (Not used for anything) on the base of the ABS pump to stop the cables from chafing. Pics:

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I wonder if this is beryllium oxide (For the heatsink, supplied with the unit) but it sure looked like it to me! Applied to the back of the unit.

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I pulled apart the old unit, both T03 cased transistors checked out ok, so possibly a dry joint, now a desk paperweight.

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Now to replace the LHD headlight glass with the correct RHD unit, of course, two of the headlight glass clips were missing. What's wrong with these cars, and this was dealer maintained...

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Of course in removing the indicator part of its mount broke, out with the JB weld!

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Lets throw a little cavity wax in here before it goes back:

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Back to the cosmetics. I am unsure as to why the walnut veneer had delaminated. I suspect the interior has become very. very hot in the past. Which is odd as there are no cracks in the dash at all. Anyway, started by cleaning off the old adhesive in preparation for the contact adhesive:

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And notice around the headlamp switch:

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And ignition switch:

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Here is my improvised veneer clamp!

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and

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And for the glovebox, managed to score this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/310539395008 ... 1497.l2649

Let's see what it's like when it arrives. Still need to source the trim for the area around the left hand vent, anyone?

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Work tidying up the veneer provided a much needed psychological boost to the project! It's much better now. Oddly, the centre console is really nice.

Another issue, after 20 minutes of running, the transmission hard shifts. Cold its beautiful. If I adjust the modulation pressure to shift smoothly after 20 minutes running, it flares all shifts when cold. Any ideas?

More in a week or so. Philip Island Historics this weekend, followed by the F1 GP the week after so back into it after that.

Happy days,

CJ

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Wed 06 Mar, 2013 11:00 am

Hang in there CJ, you're going great guns! After all it was only $500!

Re trim vent....check with Mercmad as I think he had some W126 trim on sale on Ebay recently. Also try MB Spares the forum sponsor. One of them should be able to point you in the right direction. If no good there put up a "want" post in the "Parts" section of the forum.
Cheers
Kim
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 06 Mar, 2013 12:15 pm

Thanks Kim for the tips. It's getting there, slowly!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 06 Mar, 2013 2:31 pm

Ooops, forgot, here is a pic of the tidied up headlight.

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KimB
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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Wed 06 Mar, 2013 2:34 pm

Looks fabo!
W126 86 300SE Champagne
W126 84 380SEC Signal Red

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carl888
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 06 Mar, 2013 2:45 pm

Well thanks Kim, it's sitting right in front of me as I type this, so I took a pic :)

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On another matter, the clock has begun losing about 45 minutes per day. Odd, I would have thought it would either work, or not at all. Any ideas?

CJ

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Wed 06 Mar, 2013 3:58 pm

"On another matter, the clock has begun losing about 45 minutes per day. Odd, I would have thought it would either work, or not at all. Any ideas?"

Maybe it's a De Lorean in disguise and it's starting to time warp! :laughing5:

What is the red object d'art in the background? Surely not a prancing pony?

PS: The Bundts have got to go!
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 06 Mar, 2013 4:42 pm

What? What's wrong with the original wheels! They are very light, and you can use the splendid 205/70-14 Michelin XWX tyre. Background is 1985 308 GTS Quattrovalvole in the middle of a belt change and valve adjustment.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by New123 » Wed 06 Mar, 2013 5:06 pm

Bundts?

Hey, they were good enough for Pope John Paul II...

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The car is coming along nicely, btw! :occasion5:
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 13 Mar, 2013 3:25 pm

Joy of joys, a parcel arrived today and contained this; of course I had to install it immediately! Came from a 500 SEC out of the UK.

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Easy to install, just have to be careful to ensure the internal catch sits atop the plastic trigger at the back of the handle to open the glovebox. The veneer match is not quite the same, under certain light you can see the differing grain, the flash accentuates the difference, under ambient light, it's very good.

Some pics of the install:

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I have to say just replacing the glovebox trim has really lifted the interior. Thanks to kimb, who referred me to mercmad, I also have the trim that surrounds the left hand ventilation duct coming as well, and that should finish it off. Any hints on how to remove it? Looks like I might have to remove the under dash trim to get in from behind, is that correct?

Sigh, I just looked at my other 126, I wonder if it will ever approach this?

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More later,

CJ.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 13 Mar, 2013 6:27 pm

Update, removed the LH vent trim no problem, a bit involved, have to remove the glovebox liner, pics to follow when the new trim arrives.

CJ

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 16 Mar, 2013 4:48 pm

A little play with the mechanicals today. As previously mentioned, the 380 had a 1,700 rpm cold idle. This was due to the decision to re-connect the vacuum advance, its deletion appears to be an Australian only scenario. With the vacuum advance connected and the engine cold, it translated into a 45km idle speed which was fine, unless you had to stop, or select drive/reverse, the extra load on the drivetrain being most worrying. Having a spare 50 degree thermo vacuum switch in the thermostat housing made it very easy to disable the vacuum advance until the coolant reaches 50 degrees, which just happened to coincide with the fast idle device beginning to close. The switch in this case remains closed to vacuum until 50 degrees is reached. The connections are very easy, from the vacuum line in the inlet manifold, it goes to the thermo vacuum switch, then from there to the advance side of the distributor. It works well, cold idle back to 1,400 rpm which I feel is still a bit high, but much better than before.

I also did the same today with the 280 SE as it also idled high at 1,500 rpm cold. Though the spare thermo vacuum switch in the M110 block works in reverse compared to the 380. It closes at 50 degrees. So I attached a "Y" junction to the distributor advance mechanism and had the vacuum advance permanently connected. The spare vacuum line from the distributor I ran to the thermo vacuum switch that's open under 50 degrees, and ran the line back to the retard mechanism of the distributor. The result of this is that under 50 degrees, vacuum is applied to the advance and retard mechanisms, the net result being no vacuum advance.

I was able to fit the above with the left over parts from the removal of the smog gear. I am happy with the 280 SE, that now has a 1,100 rpm cold idle which is perfect. The 380 I may revisit, applying vacuum retard to the distributor brings the cold idle down to 1,100 rpm which would be nice. I will have a think about implementing such a system over the coming weeks, in the meantime, 1,400 rpm will have to do.

I have no photographs or diagrams of the above systems but would be happy to provide some if anyone wishes.

CJ

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 22 Mar, 2013 8:18 pm

Anyone have, or have located on-line a factory manual (Not the instructions) for a Becker 612? I pulled most of the centre console today to replace some lamps and glue the RHS of the walnut which was lose. Seems like a good time to get all the lamps working in the radio. The left side illuminates, but not the right and it looks like a real job to get in there. Thanks for any assistance.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 23 Mar, 2013 1:26 pm

Some images of the new timber on the dash, thanks to an ebay seller in the UK for the glovebox and to Mercmad in QLD for the vent trim. Some pictures....

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The veneer was starting to lift on this one too, so out with the glue and clamps before installation:

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The vent trim is a little tricky, it's held on from behind with two plastic 7mm hex nuts and washers. The left side is accessible through the mouth of the duct (With the vent vanes removed, these just unclip from the front) however the right side, you must remove the glovebox liner in order to access the nut.

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Look at all the plumbing for the climate control, that will be fun to sort sometime in the future!

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And here it is, all back together. I am very pleased.

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If the light catches the glovebox lid at a certain angle, you can see the slight colour mis match, the clear over the veneer appears milky, otherwise it's fine.


Now to the centre section. Some lights didn't work, and the veneer was lifting on the right hand side by the radio. This was surprisingly easy to remove. Just the two screws to hold in the ashtray frame, above it (But on the underside of the veneer) two more countersunk Phillips head screws. Pull the veneer down to release it from the top of the dash, unplug the switches and away you go. I just need to sort the radio illumination as per the previous message, any ideas?

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CJ

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Re: 380 SE

Post by pastelgrey300D » Sat 23 Mar, 2013 3:25 pm

"On another matter, the clock has begun losing about 45 minutes per day. Odd, I would have thought it would either work, or not at all. Any ideas?"
Hey carl, sorry for the delayed response on this, but I found that in my W126 it would never keep time, until I cleaned the fuse box terminals and replaced the fuse! Something simple to try first. Interior is looking very nice! Love that burlwood! :glasses2:
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 23 Mar, 2013 5:17 pm

Thanks PG300D for the compliments. My friends say I'm being way too hard on this car, lets see how it shapes up when completed. Or perhaps they're simply being polite! Strangely, the clock seems to have recovered. I began removing the instrument cluster 5 days ago, it's sitting about 1" proud of the dash. Since then, the timekeeping has been spot on. Perhaps I've disturbed an earth, or made a better connection. I did go through the relays and fuse box when I bought the car, so I'm confident the fuse box end is OK. I'll clean up the connection on the instrument cluster when it comes out and keep an eye on its hopefully, timely, progress :)

More work on the wood today, centre section and ashtray, pics should be self explanatory. The poor old ashtray was on the way out, noticeable once removed, the veneer was beginning to separate from the aluminium backing just like the rest of it.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by markb » Sat 23 Mar, 2013 5:44 pm

Fantastic thread to follow Carl. Hope you managed to enjoy the Phillip Island Historics, despite the heat !

I was trying to see in your stereo removal shot, if there is an in-line fuse to the power of the stereo ?
My Becker Grand Prix decided to stop working the other day, however the light still illuminates on the stereo, when the headlights are on. The power to the stereo seems otherwise gone, as there are no 'digits' showing at present, just a blank screen.

Any ideas ?
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 23 Mar, 2013 6:09 pm

Hi Mark, I am not aware of any in line fuse, but I think the 612 may be internally fused, though I am unsure. Looks like I'll have to buy a service manual from Becker USA as I can't sort out the illumination issue of the front panel of mine so I'll let you know if I go that way. Thanks for the compliment. CJ

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sat 23 Mar, 2013 6:14 pm

PS, PI always good, favourite car the Matra 670C followed by the Alfa 33T2.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by markb » Sun 24 Mar, 2013 2:14 pm

carl888 wrote:Hi Mark, I am not aware of any in line fuse, but I think the 612 may be internally fused, though I am unsure. Looks like I'll have to buy a service manual from Becker USA as I can't sort out the illumination issue of the front panel of mine so I'll let you know if I go that way. Thanks for the compliment. CJ
Thanks Carl, I found the culprit this morning. There is a ceramic fuse that pushes into the rear of the Becker GP Electric case. Would you believe Dick Smith Electronics do not stock fuses any longer ! Luckily Jaycar in Cheltenham (2 doors down from Shannons) was recommended and $1.45 later, I'm smiling :dance:
Current Fleet
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1971 W108 280SE 3.5 White (1999-2006 Unmolested original & sadly missed)
1987 S124 230TE Diamond Blue (2002-2007 Family cruiser)
1983 W126 280SE Champagne 106k Klms (Custodian in 2013)
1969 W113 280SL Champagne (Custodian in 2000)
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 02 Apr, 2013 7:40 pm

The fun continues....Mark, I recall building electronic kits purchased from Dick Smith Electronics in the 1980s as a middle school student, ETI and Electronics Australia providing the inspiration, its changed greatly these days... I think those publications, along with an enthusiastic and fun science teacher were pivotal in instilling a curiosity in me about how stuff worked, and could be repaired.

I digress, more work on the 380.....

The timber trim continues:

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The ashtray was most troublesome, the sections of the veneer were separating along with the trim itself being being distorted. A week of this has it right:

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Once the centre trim came out, the changing of the bulbs could begin, the bulb for the "Octopus" fibre optic cables was very tricky to replace, the holder sits against the firewall almost level with the hazard switch, lots of wiring to get past.

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The big globe on the left and the globe in the black holder on the right are used in the instrument cluster illumination and warning lamps.


Here we go, switchgear in place, veneer polished ready for installation.

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It's very satisfying to have the veneer flat, all the lights working and the trim fitting well.

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Back to the radio, interesting, the Becker 621 fitted has a "Becker Australia" sticker fitted to the unit...before the car was delivered new, does this mean the units were installed here? The front panel comes off in a horizontal hinge like manner, the screw on the side (pictured) must be undone first to allow one side to be released. Unfortunately, the lights that don't illuminate on the front panel are soldered in place, they are not designed to be removed. So the option is to replace the face, actually not too expensive at $99 USD. I will think about this. I will also consider fitting a near new Becker 1402 I have spare, which fits to the existing harness with no issues, except it's not the original unit.

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Of course, the snug fitting centre section, polished timber and well secured and clean switch gear exaggerated the deficiencies regarding the ill fitting instrument cluster and the centre console wood, sigh, here we go.... And my finger is pointing to a lose earth connection, I wonder if this is what was causing the trouble with the clock?

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Out with the instruments, clean the dials, pointers and inside of the glass, have to be super careful.

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Back together and installed, very very nice, clear and bright! I replaced all the globes. its amazing what small detail differences can make to the interior now that something as simple as the instruments sit in the binnacle properly (Previously, the right hand side was in too far, and the rubber gasket was poking out the bottom!)

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Now to the centre console. Notice the two screws that affix the console sides to the transmission tunnel? The bracket has cracked, which was why the sides of the console were too wide. Although not done yet, I'll get to it with the JB Weld. Switches cleaned and timber polished of course.

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I took a little trip in the 280SE over Easter to visit my friend Robert. Actually, the purpose of the trip was to collect a good used 3.69:1 differential from my W116 that Robert had. It was a lovely day, and it was good to give the 280SE a run. A very nice Sicilian lunch followed by some parts gathering concluded the activities.

Luckily, I was also able to secure some parts I needed from Roberts W126 parts car he had hiding round the back of his shed, thanks Rob! Don't worry, there are jack stands under the car. And, I managed to secure the drivers side door mouldings I needed, amazingly, the only undamaged ones on the car, were the ones I needed. BTW, does anyone know the paint code for the mouldings that would be applicable to my car, colour is Diamond Blue 355. And a pic of the 280SE just before I departed.

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Will take a break from the 380 for a week or so, more later....

CJ

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Greg in Oz
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Re: 380 SE

Post by Greg in Oz » Wed 03 Apr, 2013 12:56 am

In that blue interior shot of that parts car I can see something that is better than what is fitted to most W126 in Oz. Manual climate control with a rotary knob for air direction, a rotary knob for fan speed, and separate left and right (passenger & driver) temperature thumbwheels. Superior user control (and more reliable) than the stupid pushbutton "auto" climate control fitted to the Oz delivered W126. Thankfully, the Oz W124 and W201 didn't get the pushbutton system, unlike the North American market which had it across the entire model range.
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 11 Apr, 2013 8:49 pm

I agree, I like the manual ventilation controls. Having said that, looking behind the dash on the parts car, I was surprised to see almost as many vacuum lines and control units as the climate control versions!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 11 Apr, 2013 9:02 pm

The 380 SE came with the service manual (Lucky), the owners handbook, some Hirschmann antenna swipes and the cruise control tag, the wallet and that's it. I have now amassed the following books and was wondering if this is now complete?

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1. Becker radio instructions
2. Owners manual
3. Wallet
4. Emissions book for Australian version
5. Service manual
6. International dealer directory
7. Hischmann antenna swipes
8. Central locking operation supplement
9. Climate control tag
10. Cruise control tag
11. Australian authorised dealer/service supplement
12. Becker demonstration cassette

Have I missed anything? About the only other item I can think of for the glovebox that would have been delivered with the car would be a bottle of touch up paint, which I have subsequently ordered (Diamond blue 355). Anything else I wonder??

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Re: 380 SE

Post by redlaser » Fri 12 Apr, 2013 10:08 am

Great photos..and great description...will follow your reno with interest!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 30 Apr, 2013 10:33 pm

More activity. Ended up having to remove the centre timber section again as one of the "Octopus" fibre optic cables wasn't seated, it was the one for the rear window demister. So, out it came again, what a pain!

Tidied up the centre console, JB weld on the cracks in the plastic support near the gear selector.

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Next item to attack was the oddments tray, the liner was bubbling:

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Sadly, the above didn't work, the vinyl had shrunk and the contact adhesive seemed to make it go wavy. Anyone have a spare?


Next item to clean was the centre console, I removed the switches and gave it a polish:

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The switches actually had a pretty nasty action, a legacy of years of dirt ingress I suspect. I removed the rockers and cleaned the internals with rost off. Then blew them out with an air gun. The moving tracks then re-greased with a thin grease. It's amazing what difference this made, they now have a very positive action. I also swapped the rockers front to rear to even out the wear, figuring I must lower the rear windows probably once every 200 cycles of the fronts.

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Whilst the glue was setting on the oddments tray, I decided the replace the gear shift bushes, good idea, since one was missing! And the other had fallen apart. I also lubricated the selector mechanism and now the shift has a very nice positive action.

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I decided to go ahead and fit the Becker Grand Prix 1402 I had. Although not the original fitment, the 25 WPC amplifier makes a bit of a difference along with the fact that all the lights operate, unlike the earlier original Grand Prix which has half the controls bathed in darkness. The only way to get it going is to replace the front panel. I will come across one I suppose, but in the meantime, this later Grand Prix works a treat. Here it it with the lights on:

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And tonight I completed re-fitting the trim in the drivers footwell along with the ashtray and the centre console. I am very pleased with how it has come up. Some pics with the backlighting, and some with flash. Although the interior is not as good as the 280 SE, it is far, far better than it was.

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More next week with any luck. I am going to concentrate on the exterior.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by pastelgrey300D » Tue 30 Apr, 2013 11:47 pm

The switches actually had a pretty nasty action, a legacy of years of dirt ingress I suspect.
Nice work! I remember doing the same with my car, when I took them apart it almost looked like coke had been spilled down there, it was really gunked up and sticky. Cleaning and reassembly made a huge difference and was very satisfying to do!! I remember the backlights were also hardly visible before cleaning.

I had issues with my center console wood too but just ordered another one off USA ebay, they seem to survive better over there!

Looks great! That becker is the business! :glasses2:
David
1967 W111 230S - Horizonblau
1965 W110 190c - Mittelrot
1967 W110 200D - Weiss (work in progress)
+ other classics

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Re: 380 SE

Post by 420 SE » Wed 01 May, 2013 12:53 am

I'm lovin it!
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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Wed 01 May, 2013 12:56 pm

Carl, what can I say?

If there is an award for sheer determination to restore your 380SE, you have won it hands down! I'm gobsmacked at your efforts. This is an excellent post on not only how to do something, but it also encourages some of us novice restorers who are a little afraid of tackling some jobs on our cars for fear of stuffing something up. The photos are terrific.

I think you have earned the "Fellow W126 Nutter" Supremo award - and I mean that in the nicest way. Keep on with the good work! :notworthy:
Cheers
Kim
PS I include myself as one of the novice restorers!
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 01 May, 2013 8:08 pm

Thanks for the positive comments, it's good to have a little encouragement :) It's not that hard to do, starting is the difficult bit! You need space, patience and TIME. A bit of determination doesn't hurt either. But remember I'm not doing anything that special, no major mechanical or body issues so far. So it's just a process of detail and cleaning work mostly. I'm also fussy, which doesn't help. I've not a mechanical background, so it's a good example to show we can all have a go. I really admire people who pull a completely rusty wreck from a paddock and make it new again, that's real skill when you see panels and parts being fabricated I think!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 01 May, 2013 8:24 pm

I was supposed to do some work today, but some goodies appeared....

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First job was to remove the left hand side boot liner, allowing access to the antenna, what a relief to find it like this:

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I removed the antenna assembly to clean the mast and replace the perished rubber seal where it exits the bodywork. this is important, if it fails, water will enter the boot. Miraculously, I managed to resurrect the antenna mast by straightening it, surprised that worked, but it did. Now goes up and down nicely and sits flush with the bodywork:

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I am always curious as to how a grommet can fall out, the lower one for the fuel filler flap was missing, now replaced. It's a very snug fit so it must have been pulled out with some gusto. The paintwork stain around the rubber could not be removed:

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Two of the three parcel shelf screws were missing, the replacements I see are slightly bigger, so they are now on the outside, I will address the miss match later, but for now, I am happy they are there:

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These small plastic cable clamps always seem to be missing on the old cars, it's amazing what a difference they make to the engine bay when replaced:

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I'd really better do some work, more to come...

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Wed 01 May, 2013 8:30 pm

With regards to the antenna close up, it looks like corrosion surrounding the grommet. It's actually rubber grease that I spread on the rubber to make fitting easier.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by ima380bens » Thu 02 May, 2013 12:29 am

Carl,

Where do you find all these nifty little things? Eg the screws for rear parcel shelf?

Great work by the way. Been keeping up with the progress from start. Takes a lot of work.

Regards
Took her for a drive today.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Thu 02 May, 2013 11:16 pm

Thanks for the encouragement! The small screws and clips are really easy to get. You have a number of options. First point of call, the forum sponsor! You can also buy this stuff over the counter from a dealer. You do need to find a motivated parts guy though. In no particular order the parts and consumables both new and used (I try to buy new) have come from:

Ebay
MB Spares
A friends parts car
My friend at a Mercedes stealership
Bosch
Hanvic South Yarra
My pile of assorted junk
Michelin France
Penrite
Shell
Wuerth
Keables fasteners
Wolfchester

I also find looking at original brochures of the engine bay helps too along with the spare parts diagrams, not to mention a club concourse can open your eyes (And wallet).

My advice would be to try MB spares straight up. Speaking of which, John, do you happen to have a spare oddments tray in splendid condition to suit my cream interior? Mine is shrinking by the minute after I used contact adhesive to re-fasten the vinyl!

CJ

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 10 May, 2013 2:54 pm

Not a great deal to report this week. The vacuum gauge has stopped working though. Has vacuum to the firewall so looks like the instrument cluster coming out again. Any ideas? Can't see it being that complicated, just time consuming. Been driving the car a few days this week, its been running just fine.

Some pics of the wheel alignment I did a few weeks back, made a morning of it with the MBCV so a few members could see how it's done. Had a little toe out and a camber and caster asymmetry, all corrected now. Rear axle symmetrical, luckily! That's me under the car, looking at the drivers side just before I put the Bosch special tool on the front wheels to pre-load the wheels for the toe adjustment. Have a good weekend.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Fri 10 May, 2013 3:19 pm

carl888 wrote:Not a great deal to report this week. The vacuum gauge has stopped working though. Has vacuum to the firewall so looks like the instrument cluster coming out again. Any ideas? Can't see it being that complicated, just time consuming. Been driving the car a few days this week, its been running just fine.

Some pics of the wheel alignment I did a few weeks back, made a morning of it with the MBCV so a few members could see how it's done. Had a little toe out and a camber and caster asymmetry, all corrected now. Rear axle symmetrical, luckily! That's me under the car, looking at the drivers side just before I put the Bosch special tool on the front wheels to pre-load the wheels for the toe adjustment. Have a good weekend.

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Hi Carl,
Out of interest, cd you tell me how much your rear right wheel camber was out by please?
Thanks
Kim
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Fri 10 May, 2013 3:29 pm

Kim, rear camber and toe was fine, it was the front that was a little messy. I had to do camber, toe and caster.

The rear, if out of specification, is not adjustable unless you go for eccentric trailing arm bushes which is a real pain. I have 1 degree 45 minutes negative camber left and 1 degree 38 minutes negative camber right for the rear camber measurements. Toe 1.3mm and 0.8mm toe in left and right respectively.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Fri 10 May, 2013 5:41 pm

carl888 wrote:Kim, rear camber and toe was fine, it was the front that was a little messy. I had to do camber, toe and caster.

The rear, if out of specification, is not adjustable unless you go for eccentric trailing arm bushes which is a real pain. I have 1 degree 45 minutes negative camber left and 1 degree 38 minutes negative camber right for the rear camber measurements. Toe 1.3mm and 0.8mm toe in left and right respectively.
Thanks Carl!
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Re: 380 SE

Post by harley » Fri 17 May, 2013 7:36 pm

Hi, I was wondering if that soundproofing material in the centre console well is factory? I don't think mine is there but I might have lost it. I can't believe you have two 126s!
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 21 May, 2013 3:47 pm

harley wrote:Hi, I was wondering if that soundproofing material in the centre console well is factory? I don't think mine is there but I might have lost it. I can't believe you have two 126s!
Harley, good question. It's surely factory, vacuum lines are passing through it so it must have been fitted during assembly. I can't find any evidence of the car being apart before. My 380 is from 1985. However, my 1982 280 SE does not have it. Same story, can't find evidence of it being apart before either. Odd.

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 21 May, 2013 3:56 pm

I ventured out of Melbourne for the first time in the 380 SE last weekend. Sort of a freeway test I suppose. It ran just fine over the 185km journey. It's a very comfortable car on the open road and surprisingly quiet. A taller differential ratio like the European cars would be welcome, however. I do have a warm starting issue though. If the car if left standing for about 3-5 hours, it starts instantly, runs for maybe 1/2 a second then dies. I was thinking fuel accumulator however if that were the case, it surely wouldn't fire straight up, would it? After it dies, a 2-3 second crank gets it started every time, no problems. I am not using any throttle during cranking. Hot starting and cold starting is excellent however.

The countryside is particularly colourful at this time of year, lovely!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Mon 27 May, 2013 7:31 pm

I should have done some work over the weekend, but instead took a little trip to central Victoria. It was rather pleasant, if somewhat cold. 386 kms in total. The car ran very nicely, the extra torque of the V8 making light work of the hills compared to the 280 where I'd have to row it along a little (not that I mind). The fuel consumption seems significantly more than the 280 though. I will re-fill the tank and check. After careful tuning I found I could just squeeze 28 mpg from the 280SE on a trip. If the gauge is anything to go by, the 380 is getting about 20.

A few observations. I still have this warm starting issue, where the car fires instantly for a second and dies. However if I crank the engine with a little pedal it's fine, it runs roughly on 5-6 cylinders for say two seconds then settles down to an even 700 rpm idle clearly running on all 8. Starting from cold or hot, it fires instantly on all 8. Any ideas?

A picture from the summit of mount Buningyong:

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Re: 380 SE

Post by John Green » Sun 23 Jun, 2013 6:58 pm

Hi Carl, good to catch up with you the other day at the Fox Museum. It is always interesting when you accidently bump into another OZBENZ member.
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Sun 23 Jun, 2013 7:14 pm

John Green wrote:Hi Carl, good to catch up with you the other day at the Fox Museum. It is always interesting when you accidently bump into another OZBENZ member.
Hi John, was just thinking the same thing just now, it was a fun day for sure! Thanks for the chat.

You wouldn't happen to have an oddments/coin tray in cream to suit the 380 would you? The glue I used to affix the vinyl clearly wasn't compatible, it's now shrunk and rippled. It's has the texture of a walnut!

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Re: 380 SE

Post by green380sec » Sun 23 Jun, 2013 7:40 pm

Carl, if you used contact type cement then thats most likely what caused the wrinkling and bubbles.
Selleys now has a water based contact that actually works better and doesn't attack some materials like the solvent based contact does.
My wife is a motor trimmer so we have tried them all believe me............John

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Re: 380 SE

Post by John Green » Sun 23 Jun, 2013 8:39 pm

carl888 wrote:HiYou wouldn't happen to have an oddments/coin tray in cream to suit the 380 would you? The glue I used to affix the vinyl clearly wasn't compatible, it's now shrunk and rippled. It's has the texture of a walnut!
Bugger, we sent one off tot he crushers a few weeks back with one of them... Keep at eye on the Facebook page to see what we have in for wrecking.
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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Mon 24 Jun, 2013 12:09 pm

John Green wrote:
carl888 wrote:HiYou wouldn't happen to have an oddments/coin tray in cream to suit the 380 would you? The glue I used to affix the vinyl clearly wasn't compatible, it's now shrunk and rippled. It's has the texture of a walnut!
Bugger, we sent one off tot he crushers a few weeks back with one of them... Keep at eye on the Facebook page to see what we have in for wrecking.
Ha! That must have been the same one that had the glove box lid in it that we talked about! :laughing6:
Hint: Please keep all W126 bodies!
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Re: 380 SE

Post by KimB » Mon 24 Jun, 2013 12:11 pm

green380sec wrote:Carl, if you used contact type cement then thats most likely what caused the wrinkling and bubbles.
Selleys now has a water based contact that actually works better and doesn't attack some materials like the solvent based contact does.
My wife is a motor trimmer so we have tried them all believe me............John
Wish my wife was a motor trimmer! :sad11:
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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 25 Jun, 2013 9:44 pm

green380sec wrote:Carl, if you used contact type cement then thats most likely what caused the wrinkling and bubbles.
Selleys now has a water based contact that actually works better and doesn't attack some materials like the solvent based contact does.
My wife is a motor trimmer so we have tried them all believe me............John
Thanks John for the information. I used Sellys quik grip. I've had good results with it before so assumed it would be fairly benign to the plastic, this is what it did:

Image

Do you know the name of the Sellys product?

Lucky you having a wife who is a trimmer! Well done :)

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Re: 380 SE

Post by carl888 » Tue 25 Jun, 2013 10:00 pm

John Green wrote:
carl888 wrote:HiYou wouldn't happen to have an oddments/coin tray in cream to suit the 380 would you? The glue I used to affix the vinyl clearly wasn't compatible, it's now shrunk and rippled. It's has the texture of a walnut!
Bugger, we sent one off tot he crushers a few weeks back with one of them... Keep at eye on the Facebook page to see what we have in for wrecking.
Ugghhhhhh, ok, thanks John!

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